Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Roof Ranch

NiƱos V5 6C
Blood Moon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brown Eyed Girl V4 6B
Brown Eyed Girl Left V7 7A+
David V2 5+
Electric Mexican V3 6A
Gladiators V3 6A
Goliath V5- 6C
Greenhorn Traverse V2 5+
Kickin' It Like A Moose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moonsault T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Overganging Arete V3 6A
Remnant Militia V6 7A
Rising Sun T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rusty Trombone, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seven Different Delusions S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sparkling Touch, The T V9 7C
Squat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Super Mexican V4 6B
Unknown 5.9 Dihedral 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V-easy 3
Unknown Crack to Arete 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0 4 R
Unnamed Inversion Roof 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V4 6B
Warmup Boulder Left 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
Warmup Boulder Right 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a V-easy 3
Wrangler, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wu-tang V7-8 7B
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Pat Goodman, 1998
Page Views: 5,045 total, 36/month
Shared By: JNE on Apr 29, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is one of Vedauwoo's hardest crack problems. Start under the roof, using the inclusion on the left before the start of the crack as a foot. Pull up, establishing yourself in the flared roof with your foot still on the inclusion, and crank out to and over the lip, topping out the slab after the crack peters out. This is a true test of flared jamming abilities, no amount of face climbing will get you up this. Bring tape.

There is reputedly a V3/4 version which starts at the lip, which can be done as an invert problem, first done in the late '90s. For this variation, skip the first move, instead starting with the right hand at the lip and the left hand underneath the roof in the horrible starting flare.

Location

This is on the north side of the large twenty foot tall freestanding boulder just below Emperor of Wyoming, which is the big dihedral roof crack.

Protection

Pad. The crux is low to the ground, so one pad should suffice. It's nice to have if you fall straight down on your back. To get down, crawl into the tree and tread very carefully on the tiny dead branches, or scootch off the edge of the boulder and jump down.

Photos

Bjorn
Leadvegas, CO
Bjorn   Leadvegas, CO
Crazy Eyes Bjorn Flex at your service. Or dis-service.

For whatever it's worth, I feel strongly that Vedauwoo climbers should be above this manner of online bickering and mudslinging. It's very out of character with the area, or so I would have liked to believe. Aug 17, 2009
Pat Goodman
Fayetteville, WV
Pat Goodman   Fayetteville, WV
Superhero - You're right! I just sit around on my big-fat-ass and troll the web looking for ways to get attention.
I don't realy care that much if I get recognized for first ascents I may or may have not done at the Voo, just want folks to have some consideration for history. If you need the big numbers and FA credit for your sponsors, you can have it!! Now that I think about it, I have never even been to Vedauwoo....
At least I can make a post on the inter-web and use my real name, so people like you can send me hate mail - I luv it!! Aug 2, 2009
GOODMAN, I'm calling bullS#!T on your recent FA claims in Vedauwoo. Jul 8, 2009
Sweet my pimp name is sticky fingers Bryan silk.
P.S. Pablo is no homie of mine. Jul 8, 2009
strappoh
Boulder, CO
strappoh   Boulder, CO
Whoa.

Guess I hit a nerve.
bellaonline.com/articles/ar… Jul 6, 2009
strappoh
Boulder, CO
strappoh   Boulder, CO
Great, you can downrate it now that you found out you are not getting credit for the FA. Jul 5, 2009
Sweet! Always pondered that rock...nice job, Jedle! Feb 21, 2009
molony
 
molony  
 
From the parking lot, just walk straight towards the formation with Emperor of Wyoming on it, across the drainage and through the aspens. This boulder is very obvious, it's HUGE, much bigger than the pictures suggest. Sep 29, 2008
FA: Justin Edl. Jun 2, 2007
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
I remember looking at this during my first visit to the Roof Ranch. It looked so easy until I tried to get off the ground. Proud send guys! Nov 12, 2006