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Routes in Hungover Wall - Left Side

Barfly S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Brian's Song S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buckets to Somewhere S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eve of the Ring S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
High Spark of Low Heeled Boys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hungover Traverse, The V3- 6A
Into the Void S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Joe's Problem S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
More Moss than Gloss T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
More Punk than Funk T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Tapestry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pink Squirrel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shiver Shot S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Suck For Your Solution, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Spot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Three Stooges S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: (TR) Brian Elliot, Doug Odenthal & Joe Sheehy 1988, FL: Hans Florine 1989 (without bolts)
Page Views: 1,148 total · 8/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Climb incut horizontals to the second bolt where a reachy crux will be found - taller climbers will easily reach the security of a distant horizontal, while shorter climbers will need to make some extra moves and/or dyno past the crux. After clipping the third bolt traverse right in a horizontal and then work up an arete to the 4th bolt; this section is a little sporty and will grab your attention if pumped. The last section involves traversing up and right on a steep slab to join Buckets To Somewhere for it's last bolt and anchors.

Great climbing on this route that's a good warm-up for the more difficult lines on the wall. This climb, an old toprope problem, was originally led with no bolts, and then years later bolted turning this seldom done route into a popular sport route.


Locate this fun route on the left side of a smooth face just right of More Punk than Funk, a striking crack on the left side of the wall, and 6' left of Buckets to Somewhere.


5 bolts, 2 bolt lower-off (shared with Buckets To Somewhere)


Jack C. Beckley
arcadia ca
Jack C. Beckley   arcadia ca
Really great route! Amazing how vertical it is with good jugs Aug 13, 2016

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