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Routes in Hungover Wall - Left Side

Barfly S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Brian's Song S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buckets to Somewhere S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eve of the Ring S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
High Spark of Low Heeled Boys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hungover Traverse, The V4 6B
Into the Void S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Joe's Problem S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
More Moss than Gloss T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
More Punk than Funk T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orange Tapestry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pink Squirrel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shiver Shot S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Suck For Your Solution, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sunspot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Three Stooges S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 194 total · 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 19, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Begin just right of Brian's Song and punch past the first bolt (crux) via a strenuous lock-off to reach easier moves past horizontals and a ledge just after the third bolt. Above the ledge romp up easy moves (5.9) to the anchors at the very top of the wall.

The climbing is decent and once past the boulder problem crux much easier, making this a good candidate for somebody's first 5.11 route. Like it's neighbor to the left, this route doesn't have the sustained nature characteristic of the more classic routes on this wall.

Sunspot is a drink - click the link!

Location

Between Brian's Song on the left and Three Stooges on the right.

Protection

5 bolts, shuts

Photos

Jinshui A  
 
Description of route is spot on. Different climbers may need slightly varied beta at the crux (depending on your reach). After rocking left to allow maximum weight resting on the obvious right open hand grip, I reached up with my left hand. Others found using the right hand to reach up the way to go. After the ledge, its relaxing with maybe one crimp grip. Bomb hold to clip at anchor. Sep 17, 2018

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