Avg: 3.7 from 689
votes
A great line with good protection within safe distance, all the way.
This climb is the major corner 25' left of the classic climb Bonnie's Roof, and just right of the Sleepwalk arete. A large tree grows near the base.
While there were lines on Bonnie's Roof on a crowded weekend when I was there, nobody was cued up for this climb.
P1: Stem and jam up the corner and finish up and left under the roof (crux) to reach a bolted belay station on the arete. 5.9, 80'.
Rap down or join Sleepwalk to reach the top of the cliff. Or you can continue up the fault straight above the route -- Cool Hand Duke (5.8).
From the anchor, one can TR Ent Line, on the steep wall left of Ants' Line, which I believe to be a play on names and words related to the large tree growing near the wall.
A standard light rack of nuts and cams to 3".
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aurora, co
Colorado
Philadelphia
Do you have any more information about the former location of the block? Is it visible in any of the posted photos? Does its absence change the climb? Jun 14, 2010
Philadelphia
It was the small roof above the first large one... You can actually see the fracture line on the right side of the block. It's on the right side of the dihedral. The block itself is about a foot high, 2 feet wide and 6 inches deep. This was an important hand and foot through this section, so yes, the climbing down low is different. I don't know if it'll be much more difficult. I didn't get on the climb that day. Jun 14, 2010
Alpine Meadows, CA
I climbed the route shortly after the rockfall to scope out the rock scar and the (new) climbing. The entire block was attached by, at most, a few square inches of stone, and has probably been loose for a long time. Many people have yarded on it and placed gear behind it on lead; given the typically heavy traffic, it's fantastically lucky that nobody was hurt when the block decided to separate. The absence of the block revealed some good hand holds, but does make for awkward footing as you step over the newly formed overlap. The block's absence doesn't change the grade or character of the route at all.
A first-hand lesson in why you ought not tie your belayer down (or make sure they're way, WAY out of the fall-line) in a single-pitch climbing scenario. Jun 14, 2010
mountainproject.com/v/new_y…
mountainproject.com/v/new_y… Jun 14, 2010
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Denver, CO
In addition to the #1 and #2 that you could get in on the inside of the overhang, the crux can be protected by a blue metolius mastercam at the leftmost point below the overhang. Slot it in from left to right and its bomber. Jun 23, 2014
Gardiner, NY
New York, NY
Nashville
The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
This route is the definition of G. There's no reason not to lead it if you know how to place gear! Nov 14, 2020
Durango, CO
High Falls NY