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Bad Ju-Ju Roof
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 10
votes
Early Access
Routes in Miscellaneous Crags
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Bad Ju-Ju Roof T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Upside Down Y Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 38.40536, -104.67843 |
| FA: | Noel Child, mid '80s |
| Page Views: | 5,085 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Stetler on Jan 8, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - at least until Aug. 1, 2026
Details
Per Josh: for the first time in at least 5 years, it appears we have nestlings at the peregrine falcon eyrie at Cathedral Spires! The breeding pair has been present and made attempts at nesting all those years but have not gotten this close to fledging a nest in that time.
Ornithologists across the Front Range have noted that migration and the onset of the avian breeding season seemed to be delayed by around 7-10 days this year, possibly because of the timing and amount of spring precipitation. The peregrines at Cathedral laid eggs later than usual. Because of that, their nestlings may not be ready to leave the nest by the time our usual seasonal closure would end, after July 31. As such, the closure this year will remain until at least August 15 (an opening of August 16). This should give the nestlings the time they need to finish development and leave the nest area.
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
To approach this route, drive east on the Cathedral Spires dirt road past the Pinnacle. Pull off at the gate closing an old dirt road (on the left side of the road, park on the right), looking up hill you'll see some obviously quarried rock.
From here walk up and gradually left keeping your eyes open for every huge roof you pass. It's about a 25 minute walk, depending how lost you get. It's easy to miss because of the offset of the roof. The right side of the roof is a foot or so lower than the left. It's easy to glance at the roof and think there isn't a crack if viewed from the east of the route.
The route starts with mildly spicy (or I'm a wimp) slab climbing past a bolt. Then you get 30 feet of sweet hands that gradually get wider. It's neat, with the offset it's like climbing a horizontal dihedral, even cooler, at times you can't see the crack you are jamming. It's as rad a roof I've ever seen. At the lip it gets stackable and is the crux. Due to the clean sharp break of the crack it can be laybacked, it's easier to to pull inverted Leavittation moves if you know that style. Above the lip, go to the 2 bolt anchor. It's wide, bro's would be useful, but it's 5.8 here.
I imagine a walk is possible as there are no rap rings. I don't know though. My partner was unable to climb this so I down-aided to the bolt on the slab and rapped off a link.
This is a must do route, officially it's 5.12a, but it's as easy as 11c if you are tuned on this style.
Note: as of May 24, 2013, this route and its crag are closed for a spot closure for raptor nesting. The trail leading up to it is closed as well.
6 Comments