Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9865, -105.2947 |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter, solo |
| Page Views: | 1,013 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Bartlett on Sep 30, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
The arete is the climb. Start up a crappy pine-needle covered slab for 80 easy feet to a large tree-covered ledge. Here step up onto the obvious arête. Soon you meet a steep step. Either step right (easy) or take it direct, 5.7 or so, on kinda dirty rock. From here romp up the arete (which, once out of the trees, becomes clean, and very high quality) for a hundred feet or so, to the obvious steep step. This is about 5.8+, thin and exposed. Once past this, cruise up the beautiful arete (5.7, then slowly easing) for miles. Eventually you reach a stance/ledge and bomber cracks for the gear you did not bring. Above here, a couple short steep moves (5.7) gain much easier terrain.
This climb is a fun solo. It's had few ascents, and the holds, though seemingly solid, have not been tested very often. Climb this on a non-windy day.
Protection
There is no protection within forty or fifty feet of the crux. There is no gear from the crux to a "belay" stance far above. This stance above the crux appears to be more than 200 feet above the tree-covered ledge. Best to suck it up, solo, and figure on downclimbing from below the crux if it looks too hairy above.



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