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Routes in Holy Saturday

Flake T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hideaway Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
It's OK to Be Humbled T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sorority Girl T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,761 total, 10/month
Shared By: pete cogan on Sep 19, 2003
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Walk past the huge, south facing Hideaway Chimney (5.5) heading to the right. The first crack as you head around the corner is Flake, and it starts in a bit of a chimney. You start in a crack on the left and then 25 feet up you move to a crack on the right and continue to the top.

This is a standard, awkward Vedauwoo crack that is interesting and sustained. Grind up the semi-chimney, move into a big crack, then move from this crack to your right into another crack. The crux is moving from the left crack into the right.

The top moves push you out onto the face, which I found got my attention immediately. I also found a 00 TCU helpful at the top. "One of the best pitches of 5.8 at Vedauwoo", Heel and Toe.

Protection

Cams up to 4.5 and medium / bigger stoppers; doubles on bigger cams. There are bolted anchors on top; rap with a 60 meter rope. A #5 cam will protect the OW, but it is not necessary.
bart cubrich 1
  5.8+
bart cubrich 1  
  5.8+
The thing hasn't come off as of this posting, but it looks like one good pry with a crowbar could take it off. Aug 10, 2014
Patrik  
The best 5.8 non-offwidth I've ever done at Vedauwoo!
A suggestion for leaders: Make sure your rope is on the outside of the flake (left) during the last 12-15 feet of climbing. If you clip your gear short here and let the rope be inside the flake, a fall at the top could cut your rope on the edge of the flake. Jun 4, 2012
climber73
Fort Collins, CO
 
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
 
I'm seeing a pattern... 5.8s are hard here. The more I climb at Vedauwoo, the stronger I feel everywhere else!! Sep 16, 2007
Tyler Smeenk
Laramie, WY
  5.8+
Tyler Smeenk   Laramie, WY
  5.8+
Rob, depends on how many people jam their bodies/gear/rope into it, doing the hug-crawl at upper portion with their full weight on it, but I will bet sometime in 09 it comes down. Actually it was a fun, if not awkward route, well worth doing while it is still there. Apr 26, 2007
Brian Story  
 
This is a great route. Crux seems to be moving from one flake to the other about half way up. Topping out is a little tricky. Probably a little hard, or at least awkward, for the grade. Apr 24, 2007
Any bets on when this thing's coming off? May 3, 2006
Has some spicy moves getting into the second off width about half way up, and if you don't mind a little exposure this climb is a lot of fun. Very nice ending. Jun 27, 2005
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
A very engaging and worthwhile route. Big time exposure during the final moves. Apr 18, 2005