Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,726 total · 23/month
Shared By: pete cogan on Sep 19, 2003
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Walk past the huge, south facing Hideaway Chimney (5.5) heading to the right. The first crack as you head around the corner is Flake, and it starts in a bit of a chimney. You start in a crack on the left and then 25 feet up you move to a crack on the right and continue to the top.

This is a standard, awkward Vedauwoo crack that is interesting and sustained. Grind up the semi-chimney, move into a big crack, then move from this crack to your right into another crack. The crux is moving from the left crack into the right.

The top moves push you out onto the face, which I found got my attention immediately. I also found a 00 TCU helpful at the top. "One of the best pitches of 5.8 at Vedauwoo", Heel and Toe.

Protection

Cams up to 4.5 and medium / bigger stoppers; doubles on bigger cams. There are bolted anchors on top; rap with a 60 meter rope. A #5 cam will protect the OW, but it is not necessary.

Photos