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Early Access
Routes in Miscellaneous Crags
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Bad Ju-Ju Roof T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Upside Down Y Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 38.40536, -104.67843 |
| FA: | Joe and Scott |
| Page Views: | 810 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | The Internet on Feb 21, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - at least until Aug. 1, 2026
Details
Per Josh: for the first time in at least 5 years, it appears we have nestlings at the peregrine falcon eyrie at Cathedral Spires! The breeding pair has been present and made attempts at nesting all those years but have not gotten this close to fledging a nest in that time.
Ornithologists across the Front Range have noted that migration and the onset of the avian breeding season seemed to be delayed by around 7-10 days this year, possibly because of the timing and amount of spring precipitation. The peregrines at Cathedral laid eggs later than usual. Because of that, their nestlings may not be ready to leave the nest by the time our usual seasonal closure would end, after July 31. As such, the closure this year will remain until at least August 15 (an opening of August 16). This should give the nestlings the time they need to finish development and leave the nest area.
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
This is a short crack that looks like an upside down Y. The crux is pulling into, and out of the pod that is formed when the two braches of the Y connect. It certainly felt like 5.9+/10 climbing, but, it faces north, and it was about 30 degrees outside when we climbed it. Not even worth the approach by itself. But, if stumbled accross, or combined with other area climbs is well worth while for some fun crack climbing. Walk off is obvious, if the climb isn't. Short, sweet.
We found this nice little splitter crack among the bushwhacking below the Icebox wall/Powerhouse Pinnacle/Thornbird Face areas near Cynical Pinnacle. These crags are located on the north side of the Cynical Pinnacle, and offer some great crack climbing. Expect substantial bushwhacking and boulder hoping to get to any of these climbs. Note that it would be possible (perhaps preferable) to approach these climbs from the traditional Cynical Pinnacle approach, by traversing right around the base of that rock.
Park about a half mile up the road (north-east) from the normal Cynical Pinnacle/Dome parking area. You will be directly below the climbs, and should see the Snake Buttress in-between. Hike as you would to the Snake Buttress, and you will pass the obvious route Hodge Podge on your right. Veer left here if continuing all the way up. We went straight up until almost level with the climbs, now directly west. This climb appears as a splitter crack on the North face of an obscure rock hidden amongst the trees.
From here, you could bushwhack straight (west-ish) to the Thornbird Face. We eyed a SWEET looking splitter diagonal finger crack on the Thornbird face right next to the climb Mr. Clean. Looks like three star, 5.11 or so, and would have taken more small gear than we had (Aliens, and small cams). Guess we'll have to wait until after the bird closure to see (March 1 - July 31)...
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