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Routes in Vedavoodoo Boulder

Whistling Jupiter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Paul Piana or Todd Skinner (I think)
Page Views: 744 total · 4/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Sep 2, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Situated in front of Fall Wall is this amorphic shaped boulder with an incredible sport route up its west face...Stick clip the eye-bolt and figure out how to do the wild, bouldery moves over those way cool knobs (crux). Weave your way past ring bolts and nipple-pinch up interesting terrain to these big horns and the anchor (11b/c and a wee bit sporty). Don't blow the last move!!! Don't even think of doing this line in the afternoon sun...

Protection

4 QD's, Stick-Clip

Photos

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Mark Rolofson
  5.12c
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12c
It has been a very long time since I did this route in 1989. I seem to remember 5 bolts. Are there only 4? After the tricky crux start I remember a .10d /11a run-out section past 3rd (?) bolt to reach a ledge. I also remember a 5.12 second crux finish past the last two bolts.

The climb was originally rated .12c. Skinner & Piana freed the Salathe Wall in 1988 (not 1989). May 20, 2017
JayJurkowitsch
Laramie,WY
JayJurkowitsch   Laramie,WY
Skinner worked on this problem just a month after the Salathe route in Yosemite was freed (Sept. [1988]). He still had broken ribs from an accident upon that project's completion. Piana and Heidi Barcardaro also contributed to this Vedauwoo project. Mar 26, 2007
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
FA was Piana. Early '90s. Someone really needs to replace the ring pins with actual bolts on this thing. Otherwise a very cool route with bizarre moves getting past the first big crystal/zit things. May 24, 2004