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Routes in Wheeler Wall

Babalooey S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chaber T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El-Kabong S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Quickdraw McGraw T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sahrrite T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown (Right of With The Wind) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
With The Wind S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 140 ft
FA: EFR and Bob Kerry, 1988
Page Views: 1,522 total, 9/month
Shared By: Wes Turner on Aug 16, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

Well this was certainly heady!! This totally gets an R. It is run out 5.10 slab climbing and it is great!! I slotted a pretty good nut at the bottom. It starts in a right angling seam. just keep moving...hesitation on this climb will get you "cheese grated!" or worse! I loved it!

Protection

Bring nuts and quickdraws.

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Dj telle
Tucson, Arizona
  5.10 PG13
Dj telle   Tucson, Arizona
  5.10 PG13
this is a very good route. cool committing moves. Aug 15, 2014
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.10c PG13
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.10c PG13
This route is obviously one pitch.

While it is all about the mental challenge of the lead, it can be top roped with the belayer at the summit and the lower bolts clipped as directionals. Oct 24, 2011
John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.10b PG13
John Hayes   Bend, OR
  5.10b PG13
I agree with John and Jimbo. This route is pretty sporty but I don't think it deserves and 'R'. I've done it a bunch of times and it definitely gets your attention but there isn't much to hit if you come off. I once broke a hold which is pretty hard to do on this route and took a pretty good ride. I just ran backwards until my feet couldn't keep up and with a gentle push, it was all air. Getting to the top feels as good as church letting out...90% of it is definitely half mental. Quckdraw is on my list of top 10 moderate Mt. Lemmon routes. Sep 20, 2011
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Out of my inability to read a topo I ended up doing another variation where I finished on El Kabong once I joined it from the beginning crack on Quick Draw McGraw. It seemed to stay within the grade of solid 5.10 slab (i.e. only the bottom section of El Kabong before it joins McGraw is solid 5.11) and was pretty fun. On the Kabong finish, there's about a 15 foot run-out between the third-to-last and second-to-last bolt towards the top with some 5.8+/5.9 moves to get in position for the next clip. I just wussed out and went right and protected with a long sling + yellow Alien in the crack on "Sahrrite" and dealt with the horrible rope drag before clipping and back-cleaning.

These routes don't seem to get climbed much, a lot of the footholds were grinding and sloughing off small sections when weighted. Sep 10, 2007
Jimbo  
I wouldn't give this route and "R". A soft PG-13 perhaps. It's no modern sport route but not too many years ago we would have called this a nancy boy clip up.
It's a fun route. Jun 3, 2007
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Does this route rate an "R" ? I don't recall being very scared on it. And there's nothing to hit if you fall. Apr 24, 2006
FA was EFR and Bob Kerry in 1988. After crossing El-Kabong this climb comes very close to another route Babalooey near a horizontal weakness but heads back right and up. You have to wander around to find the good holds and keep it in the grade. A fall might be bad but you are more likely to get some road rash rather than grated like cheese. Apr 23, 2006
Wes Turner
az
 
Wes Turner   az
 
forgot to add that after the angling seam it heads back left and crosses another route. Aug 20, 2004