Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Wheeler Wall

Babalooey S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chaber T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El-Kabong S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Quickdraw McGraw T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sahrrite T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown (Right of With The Wind) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
With The Wind S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 110 ft
FA: E. Fazio-Rhicard and co.
Page Views: 929 total, 5/month
Shared By: Almonzo Wilder on Aug 20, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

Head for the bottom right corner of Wheeler Wall to get to the base of this climb. The route climbs near the buttress that forms the right edge of the wall.

This is a nice long route with mixed types of climbing. The first two thirds follow the crack that diagonals up alongside the buttress. After this head up the face past two bolts to easier climbing above. The route protects pretty well and is easier than many other 5.7s on Lemmon.

This pitch is more than 1/2 a rope length, even with a 60m rope, so follow the easy and obvious walkoff to get down.

Protection

Four bolts on the route, plus a nice crack section that takes small/medium nuts and cams. Bolts at the summit.

Photos

JMo
Tucson, AZ
  5.8
JMo   Tucson, AZ
  5.8
i'm giving it 4 stars because it is beautifully long on great stone with great movement and fairly consistent at the grade, with tons of protection opportunities (i brought singles to BD3 but you could easily find places for doubles). Oct 4, 2015
Just did this with a friend who wanted a first gear lead. It was pretty perfect for that. There are bolts at the hardest section and good gear to be had above. When the crack gets flaring and funky you can still get a good slightly flared big blue Camalot in or run it out as it is easy. Finish is bolt protected and fun with a long run out on very easy ground to the top. Super long pitch. Jun 3, 2015
adrian korosec
tucson,az
adrian korosec   tucson,az
One pitch from bottom to top no problem with 60m. Plenty of pro and 5 bolts en route. Hangerless bolt now has nice hanger.

When I first did it c. 5 years ago I only remember two bolts low on the route. Was one added or is my memory fading? It's not needed and next to a crack that takes gear. 5.7 and safe.

VERY fun pitch, one of the best 5.7 on the mtn. Thanks EFR. Oct 8, 2012
Christian
Casa do Cacete
5.8
Christian   Casa do Cacete
5.8
Like Wes said, use a nut and cinch it down on the bolt stud to protect the crux move left onto the face near the top.. Probably more like a solid 5.8 move. Sep 10, 2007
Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
  5.7+ PG13
Jerry Cagle   Tucson, AZ
  5.7+ PG13
Repeated this route recently, and we pitched it out into 3... Belayed at the base of the crack, then again on the ledge just before the upper face. May 24, 2006
Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
  5.7+ PG13
Jerry Cagle   Tucson, AZ
  5.7+ PG13
This route takes almost an entire 60m rope to reach the anchors. It's difficult to protect the upper section after you leave the crack section and reach a sloping ledge it's a pretty commiting move out onto the face. If you fall you will hit something... something hard. There is an old bolt sticking out of the rock that might protect this move, but the hanger is missing... May 11, 2006
Wes Turner
az
  5.7+
Wes Turner   az
  5.7+
Fun route.. I ran it out pretty severly and didn't use any gear but it looked as though anything from tiny TCU's to a #2cam would go. there are 4 bolts plus one bolt with no hanger? I sinched a nut to it and clipped that. Aug 18, 2004