Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Tom Slater and Donna Kim, Dec. 12, 1995
Page Views: 6,294 total · 35/month
Shared By: Jeff Beckman on Mar 5, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

12 Opinions

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You can probably climb this rout without shoes if you are not worried about the bird crap. Suzanne got bit by a crab at the bottom so be careful. The rock is rather loose since it is not climbed often. I would suggest using all three bolts at the top anchor seeing as it is exposed to salt air all the time. Make sure you keep an eye on your watch since the tide can come in fast. If you figure out a way to get your rope down dry let me know.


2 protection bolts (titanium) and a 3-point anchor at the top. The first bolt is hard to find.

[Update 5/20/06: new anchors w/stainless rap rings and stainless belay bolt added; old belay chains removed].
Who left the Igloo hanging off the top of Slate's? Just curious. It is a few fee to the left of the top anchors and hanging over the edge from a piece of webbing. Aug 22, 2004
You didn't drink all the beer I left in it, did you? Aug 22, 2004
The Igloo thermos was the origianl summit register. There is a new one (5-06). More enviro-friendly. May 22, 2006
vincent L.
Redwood City
vincent L.   Redwood City
I climbed the route during an average low tide. I got wet up to my waist; it was not big deal , only added to the fun. I don't feel that is necessary to wait until some ridiculously low tide to do the route. Timing the start of the route in between sets was more exhilarating than the climbing , which is very easy.

I thought about doing a tyrolean to get off. I was going to anchor the other end to the guardrail supports on the road. It looked to be quite a stretch though , at least 150 feet. It would be very fun to do though. Where else could you anchor for a tyrolean? Also, many of the pages in the register inside that little can on top are falling apart. I'm not sure if they are degrading in that can. Jan 4, 2008
Ryan Nevius
Chiang Mai, TH
Ryan Nevius   Chiang Mai, TH
Didn't notice a register up there today. I'd avoid this one. Overrated, chossy, messy. Jul 5, 2012
Justin Skaare
  5.5 R
Justin Skaare   CO
  5.5 R
This was a memorable climb for me and definitely recommended for the experience. The climbing itself is run out, easy, and covered in bird shit ... but still 100% worth doing. We went during low tide, which I'd recommend, but the surf was still raging. I tried to time my start between sets, but got blasted by a shoulder height swell just as I put my hands on the wall. Pulling out of the water I was kicking kelp off my shoes. From there it was two run out bolts to the top. Crux is reaching the first bolt, but don't fall between the first and second as your belay partner is likely sitting way back on the beach and a fall would take them for a ride through bowling ball plus sized boulders. Potential ground (water?) fall if you mess up close to the second bolt as well, but climbing is barely 5th class at that point. I was triple checking all the feet and handholds as I didn't trust the rock, but in retrospect everything was quite solid.

No summit register as of 4/9/13. Apr 13, 2013
I'm headed to this area this coming weekend for some weekend backpacking. I'd like to hop on this line if I get chance. I lead high 5.10/5.11 range outdoors mostly and boulder v6/v7 range outdoors.

I doubt the climb will be a problem (other than safety), but is it safe to down climb without gear? Just plan to mess around on the boulders this weekend if I get a chance and would rather not take my rope (or unnecessary gear) and get it all wet. Jun 3, 2013
If you have to ask about downclimbing safely, I'd guess you probably aren't ready to be soloing it. Comments above suggest it's a big chosspile. Why not bring a harness and rappel line? Ropes do dry out, it's not like you're gonna ruin it.. Jun 3, 2013
Ryan Nevius
Chiang Mai, TH
Ryan Nevius   Chiang Mai, TH
I'd say that, due to the nature of the rock, you should be able to downclimb 5.7 (no, not 5.5) in your sleep for this to feel like a secure solo. Even then...the rock is shit. I have to side with Richard on this one. Jun 3, 2013
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Have to disagree about the rock being shit. Choss pile? C'mon guys. Was not that dirty either, especially considering the context.

Real fun excursion!! Went at probably 1' tide level or so and was up to my waist and then some. I had alpine draws with me and slung something before the first bolt, but the climbing is easier than it looks and super cruiser.

I didn't pull onto the top due to a nest full of baby seagulls. I was getting heavily dive bombed by seriously pissed off gulls the whole time I was up there, which added to the hilarity of the whole experience.

Excellent one to make your lady follow you on, or perhaps a litmus test 1st date route?? Jun 17, 2013
If you can get past the ammonia smell of the bird dung or the fact that you are climbing through it, this is a "must do" climb. You'll laugh every time you think about it. Completely crazy. The 2 bolts are hard to find because they are covered in white dung but they seem solid. I found plenty of places for gear. I put a #0 cam in a nice horizontal crack near the bottom. A couple of black tri-cams above that. After the second bolt there isn't much but easy scrambling at that point. (It's all easy). 4 bolts at the top now and they seemed solid. The coating of bird dung probably protects from the salt. We belayed the lead from the beach and the rope drag through the water was pretty tough but doable. Then brought the second up and rappelled down. We climbed at 2 feet above low tide and the water varied from Knee to waist deep depending on the wave. Lots of fun.
Aug 3, 2016
Hard to find the 2 bolts by inspection but they were present and solid as of 11/12/16. The 4 anchor bolts on top were solid as well. The photo with the two red "x's" was extremely helpful. Something worth mentioning is that waves break on the backside of the rock and can create strong currents and swell at the base of the route which can make the trek through the water coming back to shore fairly dangerous. Climbing was run out but felt secure as there are many places to put your feet and lots of features to grab a hold of. My belay partner did pull off a softball sized hold on his climb though so be aware potential loose rock. Bird poop wasn't really an issue in comparison to the tide and rip currents. Nov 13, 2016