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Routes in Fort Apache

Half Wit S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jug Addict S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Man with One Rad Shoe S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miles Beyond S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spin Doctor S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spin Doctor Continuation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 68 total, 0/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 12, 2003
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Please do not place any new bolts or fixed hardware at Table Mountain, and minimize our impact here. Climbing is open, with restrictions: private property. Details

Description

This route continues upwards and right from the shared topanchor above Spin Doctor (5.10d), Jug Addict (5.10d), andMiles Beyond (5.11b).

Avoid the temptation to move up and left to the close bolt,as this is actually a variation linking Jug Addict with theContinuation. Going from the belay anchor to the left boltwill make for some serious rope drag high up.

Head up to the first bolt, and then follow the crack systemright to the next bolt, which is right next to the topanchor for Man with One Rad shoe (5.10d). The crux iscommiting footwork on a rather runout section of traversyclimbing. Needless to say, falling in the crux would bequite painful. Once you're to the second bolt head straightup, where climbing is considerably simpler.

You can walk off the top of this route, as you are at therim of table mountain. I don't place too much trust in thesling on the higher top anchor bolt, so I would recommendbringing another sling of your own.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. The belay boltsare vertical, so this complicates matters a littlebit. Bring slings for each bolt, and one for avertical top anchor bolt that has a worn out slingon it for equalization.

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