Avg: 3.4 from 1,803
votes
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
A beautiful climb with a variety of moves. This route is nice to do in the cooler months, as it's in the sun all day. Approach as to "The Brass Wall." This route is on "Brass Wall Left." The first pitch is also the start of a climb called "The Big Horn." Starts on a ledge with a single scrub oak.
Pitch 1: Climb the obvious crack which shoots up to the big ledge. Continue up the well-protected varnished crack/face with lots of features for hands and feet. This pitch loves nuts! Climb straight up to the big ledge with a scrub oak. Bolted anchors. 5.6.
Pitch 2: Stay right of the chimney (the chimney to the left of the anchors is the start of pitch 2 of The Big Horn.) Start on the face above the anchors. Climb up to a left-facing corner. There are a couple of little offwidth moves in this section. Stay right at the top of the chimney, stepping out of the alcove, then move left into the crack, climbing up to a ledge with loose rock and bolted anchors. 5.7.
Pitch 3: Climb up about 10 feet and look to your left, for a left-leaning, right-facing corner/ramp. Follow the fun, narrow ramp, continuing to traverse left, to a protection bolt. The pro is a little tricky before the bolt: nuts in not too obvious seams. Move a little left of the bolt, then go straight up to the thin right-facing corner and up right to a ledge with bolted anchors. 5.7+.
Pitch 4: Climb up and traverse right about 20-30 feet heading for black varnished face holds. Climb up the black varnished face, following the path of least resistance, to a belay at a small stance. The P4 belay can not be seen until about 15 feet from it. A good amount of gear can be had on this pitch. 5.6.
Note: Don't go straight up from the belay; the climbing peters out into unprotectable face climbing on less than inspiring white/orange rock.
Pitch 5: From the belay look up and right 60 feet or more for a light brown 2-3 ft roof (about 20-30 feet to the right of the belay). Birdland goes just left of the edge of that roof and up the nice crack that is above the roof and out of sight. This pitch ends with a beautiful finger crack to a triangular stepping stool to reach the anchors. The last moves to the belay are the crux. Fight for this pitch! 5.7+.
Note: On pitch 5 do not go up and left. From the belay one can see white slings on an anchor about 30-40 feet left. This anchor is for a new route and not Birdland.
Pitch 6: 5.7R, that I haven't done, which consists of climbing on loose rock, to an anchor. [admin's note: best to pass on pitch 6-- loose rock directly above the belayer, minimal pro, etc. Way out of character with the rest of the route.]
Rap the route with two ropes or with one 70m rope. All the rap stations except the 1st have two sets of anchors, so it's pretty easy to rap past other parties who are still climbing.
Standard rack to 3". Bring a good selection of nuts and plenty of long runners as the route wanders a bit.
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Vegas
This route is great, love the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Nov 22, 2005
I have never climbed the arete. Does anyone know how hard it is?
It is NOT possible to rappel pitch five with a sixty meter rope. Both the first and the second pitch require downclimbing with a single sixty as well.
The sixth pitch is not worth doing.
Lastly, many parties blast up Birdland and ignore the Bighorn handcrack off to the left. The crack pitch of Bighorn is well worth doing while you're up there.
Jason Nov 22, 2005
Jason Nov 25, 2005
Vegas
(Disclaimer: I didn't climb the sixth pitch but the Brock/McMillen book says it's only 80 feet long so a 60m would be more than adequate if that's true.)
Anyhow, here's how we did it from the anchor at the top of pitch five:
From P5 anchor I rapped straight down the face towards the P4 anchor. When I reached the knots I'd tied in the rope ends I was just a couple feet above the P4 anchor bolts. I easily reached down and clipped myself straight in to one of the bolts. I then took myself off rappel and stepped down to the P4 belay stance.
From P4 anchor to P3 anchor the rope reached easily.
From P3 anchor to the large ledge with the P2 anchor the rope again reached easily.
From the P2 anchor I rapped down and into the chimney that is the start of the second pitch of The Big Horn route. I took myself off rappel about ten feet shy of the large P1 belay ledge. From there it was an easy, unexposed downclimb to the ledge.
From the anchors atop P2 I rapped straight down towards the base of the climb. Again I had to take myself off rappel about ten feet shy of the ground, but once again it was an easy, unexposed downclimb to reach the ground.
(Reminder: Don't forget to tie stopper knots in the rope ends before each rappel!) Jan 30, 2006
Canyon Lake, TX
nyc
There is an obvious anchor with slings almost directly above the P3 belay. This is not the Birdland anchor, so stay right as per route description. The P4 anchor isn't visible until you're over a bulge and almost to it.
Very catchy route for rapping. Mar 7, 2006
las vegas, NV
From the top of the third pitch the route moves more than slightly right - it is more like 20-30 feet right. Look up and right for black varnished face holds. Slightly up and right from the belay peters out into unprotectable face climbing on less than inspiring white/orange rock. The P4 belay can not be seen until about 15 feet from it. There was very little chalk on this pitch to give hint of being on route. A good amount of gear can be had on this pitch.
On pitch 5 do not go up and left. From that belay one can see white slings on an anchor about 30-40 feet left (mentioned in previous post here). This anchor is for a new route and not Birdland. It turns out the FA person on that route (Karl Wilcox) was there that day and told us where to go on Birdland's 5th pitch. From the belay look up and right 60 feet or more for a light brown 2-3 ft roof (about 20-30 feet to the right of the belay). Birdland goes just left of the edge of that roof and the nice crack is above that and out of sight.
Overall the route was pretty good - we'd give it 2-2.5 stars. For grade 7+ is reasonable. There felt like there were a couple of 8 moves on the route - one on the third pitch past the bolt and the last move on pitch 5 but the rest was 6 or 7. Apr 15, 2006
Vegas
Thanks for your beta. I will be sure to update the info. for pitch 4 and 5, but will first try to consult with Mark Limage (FA of Birdland) in order to be as accurate as we can.
Or... if one more climber, familiar with Birdland can attest to your beta, I'll change it right away.
My poor partner led pitch 4, and I know he (and probably others) would have liked more pro opportunities on that pitch, such as beta that you have described.
Interesting about new routes by Birdland; you sneaky climbers, you!!
And Silly James...there's no "8" moves on this climb,.....(:]) Apr 15, 2006
I would agree that both pitch 4 and pitch 5 involve significant movement to the right. Of the two, pitch 4 traverses the furthest right. If you were to drop plumb bobs from the start and end points of pitch 4 it would easily be 25 feet or more. I have led that pitch twice and have found sufficient good gear to feel fairly at ease. It is an up and over route and gear finding adventure. Yes there are spans of no pro but by tying together discontinuous cracks with tricams, wired stoppers and long slings(perhaps double ropes to reduce drag)it is a safe pitch. I really think it is a great pitch if you are looking around with an open eye. Pitch 5 does start out going up and right to the "cool" crack in the roof and the abondanza above.
And I personally would endorse an overall 5.8 rating for the route.
As a side comment to all, rap how you will but know how to handle a stuck rope. This climb has a practical joker's sense about its ability to catch ropes. This route is popular so use caution when yanking stuck ropes off of flakes. Apr 16, 2006
Vegas
At the time my partner and I climbed route, we had little information on pitches 3-6. Neither of us had done Birdland before. We were actually planning on climbing 'Big Horn' that day, but was not looking forward to the sustained nature of that beautiful "old school" Joe Herbst route.
Re: Birdland..pitches 4 and 5, we took a fairly direct line (only traversed slightly right on pitch 4, and on pitch 5, I did end up right at the fun, beautiful fingercrack section. Looks like there are more pro opportunities per your beta of Birdland's pitch 4 and 5.
I'll have to climb route again, using your beta to see if I'll still award it 4 stars, as there is quite a bit of traversing and more of a wandery nature to Birdland's upper pitches(4 and 5)than what my partner and I did. Apr 16, 2006
Vegas
I was able to do the first two pitches of Big Horn,after work with Jonny, which was long after I had done B.L.(B.T.W.,That's when Jonny took that "Gigi" photo of me above on first pitch).I did Birdland with another partner of mine. Since my nickname is out in the open now, you can proceed to call me Gigi, silly James.
P.S. Big Horn does look thin and 5.9ish, as Karl mentioned above, but that's an old school Joe Herbst route for ya! If anyone has done Big Horn, can you write up a description on it? Apr 16, 2006
Boulder, CO
The route info Phil and I provided is the true route for Birdland and as such should be reflected in the main description. When the new route is completed to the left (at 5.7+ so says Karl the FA person) then it can be described as a variation.
Gigi - on the main description at some point it should be consolidated and mention of lowly me can be removed. It is not like I'm an authority on RR. Perhaps after you climb Birdland again you can update the description as you see fit. Apr 21, 2006
Vegas
P.S. You're not silly anymore. Apr 21, 2006
Boulder, CO
There is a well-cairned trail all the way up to the route. At the end, sneak left under a big chockstone next to the wall to get to a spacious ledge system below the climb. The landmark for the route is the scrub oak on a ledge about 110' up, and a crack with lots of face holds that goes straight up to the right side of the tree.
I thought the first pitch was very easy; it felt more like 5.4 or 5.5 with all the face holds around the crack.
The anchor atop the second pitch is a knotted sling and quick link attached to two offset bolts. The equalization on this anchor isn't perfect for rappelling; it needs to be fixed. Another quick link (or rap rings) should be added. Even better, put chains on the bolts.
The revised route description is spot on; we had no trouble staying on route on the 4th and 5th pitches. Ample chalk marks the way. The crux of the climb is the last move to the belay on the fifth pitch: thin cracks and a smooth varnished face (5.7+ to 5.8). The rest of the climb is enjoyable 5.5 to 5.7. We didn't do the sixth pitch.
A 70m rope is the way to go, with fewer rappelling hassles than two ropes. Be careful pulling the rope from the anchor atop the second pitch to avoid getting the rope hung up in the chimney. Apr 25, 2006
Boulder, CO
Wichita, Ks.
My partner and I got rained off just as I was 15' out on the 4th pitch lead, so we didn't get to finish the route. However, the first 3 pitches are well worth climbing again and I will go back next time out and finish it. The Bighorn crack pitch looks super and hope to get on that as well.
On the 3rd pitch, the traverse to and past the bolt sews up great with small aliens. I remember a perfect blue alien placement under a solid flake to get past the bad "splat" swing potential before clipping the bolt. You should probably be solid at 5.8 leading on this pitch, have a strong lead head, or just don't look back before clipping the bolt if you can't sew it up.
Be careful on the rope eating rappels. Had to re-climb and down climb half of pitch 2 because of stuck rope on rappel. Oct 27, 2006
Las Vegas
Weimar, CA
Joshua Tree, Cal
A great route; every pitch is excellent! Mar 15, 2007
LAS VEGAS
Fort Lauderdale, FL
Los Alamos, NM
This route was very good; my only wish is that there had been more sustained climbing at the upper end of the grade on most of the pitches. Nov 24, 2007
Sacramento, CA
If your squeemish there is one "close call" rappel if your using a 60m up high but I found the other belays to be quite easy to navigate a downclimb.
Oh, and be sure and get your own copy of the guidebook photo on the second to last pitch fingercrack. Jan 21, 2008
Las Vegas, Nevada
American Safe Climbing Asso…
Fort Collins, CO
Brutus Nov 27, 2008
The stances at the top of the first 4 pitches are big enough to comfortably fit a group of 3 climbing together. However, the small, triangular shelf at the top of pitch 5 is only big enough for two people, and becomes pretty tight for the two of them when flaking the rope and setting up a rappel.
You can rap each pitch with a single 70M rope, but given that you must do some traversing and searching to find the anchors at the top of pitches 3 and 4, it would be wise to tie the ends of the rope and/or use an autoblock during your rappel. Jan 30, 2009
slc, ut
Colorado
Cheers. May 13, 2009
Wasatch Back, UT
CO
Portland OR
If you're not careful rope drag on the fourth pitch can be worse than the third pitch. (A party a head of us learned that the hard way.)
Do anything short of killing your partner for the fifth pitch. If that does not work, demand pitches 1, 2 and 3. Let him take pitches 4 and 5.
Pitch 1 is fun. Pitch 2 for a 5.7 is thought provoking. Pitch 3 is fun and interesting, not as runout as it looks. The crux of pitch 4 is route finding, if in doubt head right and up (look for a horizontal seam). The start of pitch 5 does not look special, but once above the roof it is a great pitch. May 4, 2010
Colorado Springs, CO
NV
Boulder, CO
El Segundo, Ca
brooklyn, ny
Sure dont look like gunks routes... Dec 8, 2011
Las Vegas, nv
The rap down from the 3rd pitch can eat your rope. Throw your rope out as far as you can to keep it from falling into the crack. When you pull it make sure you try to whip it out away from the wall. This is hard when there are a bunch of people climbing below you.
As someone said before the approach is easiest if you go past the wall and double back up the switch backs. It's a lot longer approach than the 30 minutes in the guidebook. More like an hour over some tough terrain.
Very enjoyable route. Nov 20, 2012
Las Vegas, nv
Salt Lake City, UT
Also, we were climbing on 60m half ropes. We were able to rappel from the top of P5 to the top of P3. It was a rope stretcher, but it worked. Only issue was the rope got snagged a few times. Definitely tie knots in the rope if you attempt this. Mar 24, 2013
Las Vegas, Nevada
Los Angeles, CA
then again on P3 to P2, and P2 to P1.
Also, find a stopping stuck in the crack on P3 right after the traverse. if that's yours, email me and descripe it, and i will get it back to you. Oct 28, 2013
Blacksburg
CA
Chattanooga, TN
Los Angeles, CA
If you want to climb this route with a *single 60m rope:*
Rapping P5: If your 60m rope is cut slightly long (maybe 62-64m), the rap will be almost perfect. If your 60m is exactly 60m like mine, and you are a light climber, you may find yourself 8-10 feet above the anchor.
I would suggest if you suspect you might find yourself in this situation, (1) on the way up, leave a long sling on the P4 anchor that you can fish up with your foot to give yourself extra reach; and (2) have the heaviest climber rap, fish up the sling, clip in, and downclimb first. The lighter climber can then rap and toss a tied-in cord or sling or whatever down to the anchored heavier climber and complete the downclimb as well.
Rapping P4 and P3 is fine on a single 60m.
As per comments above, P2 and P1 seem to require more downclimbing. We combined our rope with our friends' 60m for these pitches so I cannot comment. If your 60m is cut long, then I might suggest stashing your tagline or second rope on the ledge at the top of P2 to save yourself having to carry it.
(Alternatively---if the anchor for P4 were moved up about 5 feet, you could rap the upper three pitches comfortably with a 60m!) Mar 29, 2015
Very fun climb. Last few feet of pitch 5 seemed a bit hard for 5.7. Nov 11, 2015
San Diego, Ca
Build a quad since all belays are bolted Nov 15, 2015
San Francisco
Rapped with a single 70.
Make sure to exercise caution pulling your rope as others have said. We almost got ours stuck! Dec 26, 2015
Las Vegas, NV
Unfortunately, we dropped a rack of nuts (wild country offset superlights, and a few DMM offsets) on a red wild country helium carabiner. If anyone finds it please PM me. Thanks! Jan 11, 2016
Watertown, MA
Two potential hazards:
1. Many parties on the route, and upper belays are very tight. Be prepared for major traffic and pile-ups.
2. Rope pulls are tricky (our rope was stuck twice)
Advice: DO NOT link the rap from 4 to 2, even if you have long enough doubles. Just don't do it. Far too easy to get ropes stuck. Mar 11, 2016
Las Vegas, NV
Got a light blue/green 70m rope stuck on pitch 3 the night of Jan 1, 2017. (didn't see the post recommending against rapping from 4 to 2!).
Going back this morning, Jan 2 to get it. If you find it before us, there's a case of beer for you for bringing it down! Thanks
Also recommend against linking P3/4 due to high rope drag. Jan 2, 2017
Palo Alto
New York
Kalispell, MT
Would highly recommend bringing an anchor to accommodate the high traffic of parties climbing up and rapping down. Saw several parties go directly from their daisy chain into the bolt... which makes for a huge cluster when sometimes there are 4+ people at a hanging belay!
Rapping and rope snags- agree with posts below DON'T RAP FROM 4 TO 2! We met up with Suneet & Phil's crew and experienced this first hand and in the dark heh. Thank you Remy for getting that rope down! Nov 12, 2017
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Reno, NV
I actually thought the p3 traverse was way more engaging than the so called money pitch. The last 30ft is cool because of what it is, a narrow splitter on an otherwise blankish slab, but the climbing is short and straightforward, complete with intermediate rest stances. The traverse requires you to think about placement, has good movement, and is way more airy. Jun 14, 2018
Ridgway, CO
Las Vegas, NV
SLC
During the second rappel, you'll be looking to reach a set of anchors about 25ft directly to the right of the anchors atop P3. From these anchors, you'll rap down to the top of P2. This anchor is the only one not shared with the climbing anchors Jan 7, 2019
Las Vegas, NV
Seems to me the spectrum rap route is pretty far right of birdland and attempting to rap spectrum might get beginners into trouble. Maybe I am wrong and the spectrum raps aren't as far right as they appear. Anyone heard similar beta? Jan 28, 2019
Livingston
Idaho falls
Seattle, WA
My partner kindly let me lead pitch 5, which I started with great trepidation. I‘m just now coming back to climbing after several years off, and had heard from friends that the last pitch is quite heady. Climbing forums also seem to make some to-do about the pitch being difficult for the grade. This had built up something of a terrifying image in my head. However, I found it surprisingly, almost disappointingly, comfortable, and would personally rate it a flat 5.7 on the easier side of the spectrum. I actually found P3 more challenging. Regardless, the finger crack was undoubtedly a LOT of fun to lead.
I didn’t bring enough cams that were small enough, and nut placements seemed iffy, so ran out the last section to the belay bolts somewhat. Since there were a decent number of edges and divots to balance on, there wasn’t much worry about falling. The triangular step that marks the anchor station is easy to pull up onto if you use a small, shallow undercling in the bottom left corner of the triangle.
We rapped entirely on a 70m rope. Except for one snag on the third rap that required a bit of climbing up to release it, our descent went really smoothly. We had to share belay/rap bolts for much of our way up/down Birdland but all of the climbing parties were exceedingly friendly and obliging, so there was never any problem with tangling, attitudes or collisions.
All in all, this was a very enjoyable, moderate route with beautiful views. We also greatly appreciated the south-facing warmth on a 38-degree day. Nov 27, 2019
Portland
Swallows, ravens, and hummingbirds all came by and checked us out.
In all seriousness, all the beta is here. But the top pitches are “the temperature of the surface of the sun” as my climbing partner put it, if the forecast is over 80 degrees. I have burn blisters from hot shoes to prove it. But you’ll get the route to yourself. (All the smarter folk know not to be in the sun. Facepalm). The climb is totally worth it though.
Rap rings have been added on top of pitch 4, and 3.
Easy for a 5.7. Oct 6, 2020
Mountain View, CA
Burlington, VT
(The first pitch of valore is a nightmare of loose rock, but the second pitch is cleaning up nicely and has some great movement and good gear)
Then continue straight up through the weakness toward an anchor. (Now you’re on tinkerbellefuss) From this anchor you can either go straight up (5.7R) or continue along the cracks to the right as described in the Route discription 5.8R?). We went straight up, the climbing was really pleasant but there was no gear for 40 feet above the anchor. Easy climbing though. These two can be easily linked with a 70 since it’s a straight line.
And then you’re at the base of the birdland money pitch! Essentially you’re climbing the designated rap route. Felt nice and direct. Dec 31, 2020
Colorado
Seems like a super popular route, so be prepared for some traffic. We rapped with 1 70m just fine but make sure it’s right at the middle mark and knot the ends. Consider keeping the rope coiled with you when you rap if you can and be careful pulling because there’s lots of spots to get it stuck. Jan 25, 2021
Sacramento, CA
On your second rap, you can go to a separate set of rings straight below you, avoiding having to traverse to climber's left where the belay for the top of P3 is. You won't see them until you rap over a lip, but it's there. Nov 12, 2021
Henderson, NV
San Jose, CA
Spicy moments for me was the traverse on p3 which I ran out and in retrospect I shouldn't have because then if my follower fell, she'd swing quite a bit. It wasn't hard but it was very intimidating. The last 15 feet to the p5 anchor also was slabby with no obviously good holds for feet or hands so it was pretty committing.
Overall I had an absolute blast - the climbing was interesting, varied, and the gear placement was plentiful. This is a great one for new followers as a first mp route. Feb 1, 2022
Las Vegas, NV
Little Rock, AR
Nashville, TN
Camarillo CA
Looking at the pictures seems many climb below the bolt on the 3rd pitch and then climb up to the steep crack. Watching videos though and reading comments many also climb above the bolt and traverse into the crack using underclings. I climbed beneath the bolt and the moves past it weren't hard but then moving up and inserting into the crack presented a couple + moves. Is one way considered the proper or conventional way to go? Apr 25, 2022
Seattle, WA
5 parties in front of us (including 2 parties of 3), 3 parties behind us. Left the parking lot at 8am, got back at 4pm. Hike was ~1hr, waiting to climb ~1hr (used this time to go to the bathroom, eat, get racked, etc, so only felt like a little wait), climbing took about 3.5hrs, rappelling with one 70m (so 5 raps) took ~1hr, clean up and rest/take a break, then 45min hike back.
We were able to pass a party of 3, which helped keep the path in front of us clear. Belay stations got crowded at the top of 1 and 2, but climbing pitch 3 slowed the party behind us way down, so we had the rest of the route to ourselves, and no one at any rappels on the way down (I think one party bailed after us, and two parties were at the top of 3/starting 4).
I'm a 5.7 leader, so appreciated a triple rack .3-.5, doubles .75-#2, and a few #4s on pitch 2. Led pitch 1 - great warm up to get back into the game, but easily several grades easier than the other pitches. Led pitch 2 - it was super awesome and unique. Led pitch 3 - it was terrifying. I placed a piece above the bolt in a slot to get a bit higher of a catch should I fall - I swear once you just make a move above the jugs you'll be fine, but definitely an experience for sure. Glad I had it while I'm still not a good climber, so could get the full experience. Then followed the rest of the route for a chill ride to the top.
Biggest complaint of the whole route is that you really can't sit at the top and take in your accomplishment before heading down, since it's a tight hanging belay (with a little step to stand on). Didn't bother with pitch 6 based on comments, but wondering if that one would've given us a chance to take it in.
Overall, if you don't rush to be first and are climbing on a weekend, expect it to take all day, but that you'll still get the full experience in just fine. Super awesome route, really glad to have led some of the pitches. Nov 21, 2022
Beaverton, OR
Highland Park, NJ
Belgrade, MT
There are 2 alternate rap stations that you can use while rappelling which keeps your rap in a straight line and avoids crowding belay ledges at top of P2 and P3.
With a 70m rope you can do the following:
#1: Rap from P5 anchors to P4 anchors
#2: Rap from P4 anchors straight down to rap station approximately 30ft right of P3 anchor.
#3: Rap from rap station down to a big ledge (32m rap). From the ledge, walk around the ledge to the face and you'll see another set of anchors.
#4: Rap from rap station on big ledge to P1 anchors
#5: Rap from P1 anchors to the ground Mar 5, 2024
Moab
Las Vegas, NV
Ypsilanti, MI
Hell
I've done it this way countless times guiding and it is logical and fast and saves both my party and other parties below time and grief. The stance at the base of the fifth pitch easily accommodates 4-5 people whereas the fully hanging belay atop the fifth barely accommodates one.
I wasn't there with you and don't know what exactly transpired, in all likelihood it could still have been a circus, and it would certainly be insensistive for these parties to run multiple laps on the pitch, but based on your comment it is possible that they were actually doing the smart thing even though it might be different than your belief about how things "should" happen.
Regardless of exactly what went down there is one indisputable fact: If you don't like waiting for other parties ahead of you, you can always get there earlier. Jan 13, 2025
Acadia, ME