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5.7+, Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3.4 from 1,035 votes
FA: Mark Limage, Chris Burton 2001
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > 10-Pine Creek C… > Brass Wall
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


A beautiful climb with a a variety of moves. This route is nice to do in the cooler months, as it's in the sun all day. Approach as to "The Brass Wall." This route is on "Brass Wall Left." The first pitch is also the start of a climb called "The Big Horn." Starts on a ledge with a single scrub oak.

Pitch 1: Climb the obvious crack which shoots up to the big ledge. Continue up the well-protected varnished crack/face with lots of features for hands and feet. This pitch loves nuts! Climb straight up to the big ledge with a scrub oak. Bolted anchors. 5.6.

Pitch 2: Stay right of the chimney (the chimney to the left of the anchors is the start of pitch 2 of The Big Horn.) Start on the face above the anchors. Climb up to a left-facing corner. There are a couple of little offwidth moves in this section. Stay right at the top of the chimney, stepping out of the alcove, then move left into the crack, climbing up to a ledge with loose rock and a bolted anchor. 5.7.

Pitch 3: Climb up about 10 feet and look to your left, for a left-leaning, right-facing corner/ramp. Follow the fun, narrow ramp, continuing to traverse left, to a protection bolt. The pro a little tricky before the bolt: nuts in not too obvious seams. Move a little left of the bolt, then go straight up to the thin right-facing corner and up right to a ledge with bolted anchors. 5.7+.

Pitch 4: Climb up and traverse right about 20-30 feet heading for black varnished face holds. Climb up the black varnished face, following the path of least resistance, to a belay at a small stance. The P4 belay can not be seen until about 15 feet from it. A good amount of gear can be had on this pitch. 5.6.

Note: Don't go straight up from the belay; the climbing peters out into unprotectable face climbing on less than inspiring white/orange rock.

Pitch 5: From the belay look up and right 60 feet or more for a light brown 2-3 ft roof (about 20-30 feet to the right of the belay). Birdland goes just left of the edge of that roof and up the nice crack that is above the roof and out of sight. This pitch ends with a beautiful finger crack to a triangular stepping stool to reach the anchors. The last moves to the belay are the crux. Fight for this pitch! 5.7+.

Note: On pitch 5 do not go up and left. From the belay one can see white slings on an anchor about 30-40 feet left. This anchor is for a new route and not Birdland.

Pitch 6: 5.7R, that I haven't done, which consists of climbing on loose rock, to an anchor. If someone would like to post the beta for pitch 6, that'll be great. [admin's note: best to pass on pitch 6-- loose rock directly above the belayer, minimal pro, etc. Way out of character with the rest of the route.]

Rap the route with two ropes or with one 70m rope.


Standard rack to 3". Bring a good selection of nuts and plenty of long runners as the route wanders a bit.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo of Birdland, Spectrum area, Red Rocks Nevada.
[Hide Photo] Topo of Birdland, Spectrum area, Red Rocks Nevada.
Ringtail spotted while rapping down Birdland on 2/2/17
[Hide Photo] Ringtail spotted while rapping down Birdland on 2/2/17
On Birdland
[Hide Photo] On Birdland
Birdland, showing the first five pitches.<br>
Edited to show the usual first pitch. An alternate start, up a wider crack to the right, is shown in red.
[Hide Photo] Birdland, showing the first five pitches. Edited to show the usual first pitch. An alternate start, up a wider crack to the right, is shown in red.
This is the only reason I climbed this route!! November 2007
[Hide Photo] This is the only reason I climbed this route!! November 2007
Chuck on the p5 finger crack
[Hide Photo] Chuck on the p5 finger crack
Anne enjoying the finger crack atop pitch 5
[Hide Photo] Anne enjoying the finger crack atop pitch 5
Leading up the fourth pitch. November 2012.
[Hide Photo] Leading up the fourth pitch. November 2012.
Birdland approach hiking route.
[Hide Photo] Birdland approach hiking route.
Route Overlay Birdland
[Hide Photo] Route Overlay Birdland
Brent Peters nearing the top of pitch 5.  The climbing is sustained and delicate from here to the belay.
[Hide Photo] Brent Peters nearing the top of pitch 5. The climbing is sustained and delicate from here to the belay.
ringtail on the Birdland rap ledge
[Hide Photo] ringtail on the Birdland rap ledge

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] This route is easily rappelled with a single 70m, and I highly suspect that a single 60m would work as well, but havent attempted it yet.

Nov 20, 2005
[Hide Comment] I don't think a single 60 meter rope will reach from atop pitch 2's anchors down to pitch one's anchors, and if you came up short you'd have to downclimb one of two chimneys. Nov 20, 2005
Matt Faust
[Hide Comment] I'm 95% sure that we rapped straight from the P3 belay to the P1 belay with a single 60, and only had to downclimb a short bit of that easy chimney. It worked very well for us.

This route is great, love the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Nov 22, 2005
[Hide Comment] There are three variations for the second pitch. The first variation is that which is described. The second is to climb the chimney -- which I think is a lot more fun than the face -- and the third is to climb the arete to the left of the chimney.

I have never climbed the arete. Does anyone know how hard it is?

It is NOT possible to rappel pitch five with a sixty meter rope. Both the first and the second pitch require downclimbing with a single sixty as well.

The sixth pitch is not worth doing.

Lastly, many parties blast up Birdland and ignore the Bighorn handcrack off to the left. The crack pitch of Bighorn is well worth doing while you're up there.

Jason Nov 22, 2005
Matt Faust
[Hide Comment] Oops, Jason you jogged my memory. Above I said we rapped from P3 to P1, but that's obviously not true. I remember lusting after the Big Horn handcrack, but it looked pretty tough from my vantage. How hard is that crack, Jason? Nov 23, 2005
[Hide Comment] The Bighorn Crack is 5.8.

Jason Nov 25, 2005
[Hide Comment] What is the correct name of Joe Herbst's route? Is it The Big Horn or The Bighorn? I've seen it written both ways . If I have it wrong in my description, I apologize. Dec 9, 2005
phil broscovak
[Hide Comment] Birdland is a totally fabulous route! One of my favorite routes in RR. Jorge Urioste took our kids on a nature hike so Julia and I could relax and enjoy the climb. I don't know if my ankle-biting rug rats will ever fully appreciate what an honor it was to be tour guided by a legend, but Julia and I still break into perma-grins thinking about that day. THANK YOU Jorge! The finger crack on the fifth pitch is not to be missed! The belay stance is wild. I can only imagine the sphincter puckering that took place when whatever stood atop the triangle ledge cut loose. It is totally clean and scenic now. Jorge told me the fourth pitch while easy was unprotected. Probably because most of the hard cores just 3rd class through it. On the other hand I was able to essentially lace it up with decent gear every fifteen feet or less. Probably because I am anything but hard core. The climbing on every pitch of Birdland is aesthetic and varied. This climb is a real treat for the senses. Be careful running and pulling rap ropes around pitch three. Dec 12, 2005
[Hide Comment] If you don't have a 70m rope, and you don't want to bring a second rope for the rappels, it is possible to get down with one 60m rope if you don't mind a little minor downclimbing.
(Disclaimer: I didn't climb the sixth pitch but the Brock/McMillen book says it's only 80 feet long so a 60m would be more than adequate if that's true.)
Anyhow, here's how we did it from the anchor at the top of pitch five:
From P5 anchor I rapped straight down the face towards the P4 anchor. When I reached the knots I'd tied in the rope ends I was just a couple feet above the P4 anchor bolts. I easily reached down and clipped myself straight in to one of the bolts. I then took myself off rappel and stepped down to the P4 belay stance.
From P4 anchor to P3 anchor the rope reached easily.
From P3 anchor to the large ledge with the P2 anchor the rope again reached easily.
From the P2 anchor I rapped down and into the chimney that is the start of the second pitch of The Big Horn route. I took myself off rappel about ten feet shy of the large P1 belay ledge. From there it was an easy, unexposed downclimb to the ledge.
From the anchors atop P2 I rapped straight down towards the base of the climb. Again I had to take myself off rappel about ten feet shy of the ground, but once again it was an easy, unexposed downclimb to reach the ground.
(Reminder: Don't forget to tie stopper knots in the rope ends before each rappel!) Jan 30, 2006
Tim Baguley
[Hide Comment] Route may be safely rappelled with a 70m rope. You can also rap the route with a single 60m rope, but you will need to do a bit of down-climbing (or reaching out to clip into anchor bolts from the bottom of the rope) on a couple pitches...I don't recommend this for inexperienced climbers. If you do rap the route with a 60m rope, MAKE SURE TO TIE STOPPER KNOTS in the end of the rope! Feb 1, 2006
marc rosenthal
Canyon Lake, TX
[Hide Comment] Regarding the Bighorn pitch on the left: This is a great pitch with big moves and good pro. However, above the pitch is one of the worst anchor stations I have ever seen. There is a two/three bolt set up with a hanger on one side and no hanger on the other. Due to the location of the hanger and the nearest natural pro, it is better to set pro in the rock than use the anchor, since it is hard to equalize. If anyone knows if this anchor has been improved, please update. Feb 21, 2006
[Hide Comment] The beta in the new fat red guidebook is a little off, I think, on P4. It says to look for a right-facing corner by a roof, where I think most climbers would refer to that feature as a crack (by a roof).

There is an obvious anchor with slings almost directly above the P3 belay. This is not the Birdland anchor, so stay right as per route description. The P4 anchor isn't visible until you're over a bulge and almost to it.

Very catchy route for rapping. Mar 7, 2006
karl g wilcox
las vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] Bighorn should really be considered a Red Rock 5.9. Good pro, but a bit thin to qualify for a 5.8. Cheers, Karl Wilcox Apr 10, 2006
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route last week with Joe Chorny. We only had the Swain book (which doesn't have Birdland) so had to use this website to get info on the route. The pictures and description here allowed us to find the base of the route but honestly the info on the 4th and 5th pitches is misleading and could use improvement.

From the top of the third pitch the route moves more than slightly right - it is more like 20-30 feet right. Look up and right for black varnished face holds. Slightly up and right from the belay peters out into unprotectable face climbing on less than inspiring white/orange rock. The P4 belay can not be seen until about 15 feet from it. There was very little chalk on this pitch to give hint of being on route. A good amount of gear can be had on this pitch.

On pitch 5 do not go up and left. From that belay one can see white slings on an anchor about 30-40 feet left (mentioned in previous post here). This anchor is for a new route and not Birdland. It turns out the FA person on that route (Karl Wilcox) was there that day and told us where to go on Birdland's 5th pitch. From the belay look up and right 60 feet or more for a light brown 2-3 ft roof (about 20-30 feet to the right of the belay). Birdland goes just left of the edge of that roof and the nice crack is above that and out of sight.

Overall the route was pretty good - we'd give it 2-2.5 stars. For grade 7+ is reasonable. There felt like there were a couple of 8 moves on the route - one on the third pitch past the bolt and the last move on pitch 5 but the rest was 6 or 7. Apr 15, 2006
[Hide Comment] James,
Thanks for your beta. I will be sure to update the info. for pitch 4 and 5, but will first try to consult with Mark Limage (FA of Birdland) in order to be as accurate as we can.
Or... if one more climber, familiar with Birdland can attest to your beta, I'll change it right away.
My poor partner led pitch 4, and I know he (and probably others) would have liked more pro opportunities on that pitch, such as beta that you have described.
Interesting about new routes by Birdland; you sneaky climbers, you!!
And Silly James...there's no "8" moves on this climb,.....(:]) Apr 15, 2006
phil broscovak
[Hide Comment] Hello Gigette,
I would agree that both pitch 4 and pitch 5 involve significant movement to the right. Of the two, pitch 4 traverses the furthest right. If you were to drop plumb bobs from the start and end points of pitch 4 it would easily be 25 feet or more. I have led that pitch twice and have found sufficient good gear to feel fairly at ease. It is an up and over route and gear finding adventure. Yes there are spans of no pro but by tying together discontinuous cracks with tricams, wired stoppers and long slings(perhaps double ropes to reduce drag)it is a safe pitch. I really think it is a great pitch if you are looking around with an open eye. Pitch 5 does start out going up and right to the "cool" crack in the roof and the abondanza above.
And I personally would endorse an overall 5.8 rating for the route.
As a side comment to all, rap how you will but know how to handle a stuck rope. This climb has a practical joker's sense about its ability to catch ropes. This route is popular so use caution when yanking stuck ropes off of flakes. Apr 16, 2006
[Hide Comment] Thanks Phil and James!
At the time my partner and I climbed route, we had little information on pitches 3-6. Neither of us had done Birdland before. We were actually planning on climbing 'Big Horn' that day, but was not looking forward to the sustained nature of that beautiful "old school" Joe Herbst route.
Re: Birdland..pitches 4 and 5, we took a fairly direct line (only traversed slightly right on pitch 4, and on pitch 5, I did end up right at the fun, beautiful fingercrack section. Looks like there are more pro opportunities per your beta of Birdland's pitch 4 and 5.
I'll have to climb route again, using your beta to see if I'll still award it 4 stars, as there is quite a bit of traversing and more of a wandery nature to Birdland's upper pitches(4 and 5)than what my partner and I did. Apr 16, 2006
[Hide Comment] Thanks for updating the description Gigi - this should help future parties on the route. I guess since you can call me "silly" I can call you "Gigi"? Apr 16, 2006
[Hide Comment] You got me all excited to do Birdland again, but Big Horn is next on my list if I'm up that way.
I was able to do the first two pitches of Big Horn,after work with Jonny, which was long after I had done B.L.(B.T.W.,That's when Jonny took that "Gigi" photo of me above on first pitch).I did Birdland with another partner of mine. Since my nickname is out in the open now, you can proceed to call me Gigi, silly James.

P.S. Big Horn does look thin and 5.9ish, as Karl mentioned above, but that's an old school Joe Herbst route for ya! If anyone has done Big Horn, can you write up a description on it? Apr 16, 2006
George Bell
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Rather than replace the old description of the top pitches, I'd prefer that it remain described as a variation. Or maybe add it as a separate route "Birdland Variation". It's nice to know what all the options are. Apr 19, 2006
[Hide Comment] George

The route info Phil and I provided is the true route for Birdland and as such should be reflected in the main description. When the new route is completed to the left (at 5.7+ so says Karl the FA person) then it can be described as a variation.

Gigi - on the main description at some point it should be consolidated and mention of lowly me can be removed. It is not like I'm an authority on RR. Perhaps after you climb Birdland again you can update the description as you see fit. Apr 21, 2006
[Hide Comment] Sounds good James about consolidating later on (after I climb it again, and after Karl's new route listed for variation to B.L.).
P.S. You're not silly anymore. Apr 21, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] An ultra-classic route that will become extremely popular once word gets out. Climb it now before the crowds arrive!

There is a well-cairned trail all the way up to the route. At the end, sneak left under a big chockstone next to the wall to get to a spacious ledge system below the climb. The landmark for the route is the scrub oak on a ledge about 110' up, and a crack with lots of face holds that goes straight up to the right side of the tree.

I thought the first pitch was very easy; it felt more like 5.4 or 5.5 with all the face holds around the crack.

The anchor atop the second pitch is a knotted sling and quick link attached to two offset bolts. The equalization on this anchor isn't perfect for rappelling; it needs to be fixed. Another quick link (or rap rings) should be added. Even better, put chains on the bolts.

The revised route description is spot on; we had no trouble staying on route on the 4th and 5th pitches. Ample chalk marks the way. The crux of the climb is the last move to the belay on the fifth pitch: thin cracks and a smooth varnished face (5.7+ to 5.8). The rest of the climb is enjoyable 5.5 to 5.7. We didn't do the sixth pitch.

A 70m rope is the way to go, with fewer rappelling hassles than two ropes. Be careful pulling the rope from the anchor atop the second pitch to avoid getting the rope hung up in the chimney. Apr 25, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] P2 rap anchor discussion moved to Birdland P2 Rappel Anchor. Apr 25, 2006
Bill Gibbs
Wichita, Ks.
[Hide Comment] A better description for the approach would be to disregard the standard approach for Brass Wall. Instead, continue on the main trail and after you have passed Brass Wall "Left", and started the switchbacking for Darkshadows area, look for a couple of huge, light colored boulders with darker spots all over them. Near those boulders look for a trail off to the right and follow the cairns.

My partner and I got rained off just as I was 15' out on the 4th pitch lead, so we didn't get to finish the route. However, the first 3 pitches are well worth climbing again and I will go back next time out and finish it. The Bighorn crack pitch looks super and hope to get on that as well.

On the 3rd pitch, the traverse to and past the bolt sews up great with small aliens. I remember a perfect blue alien placement under a solid flake to get past the bad "splat" swing potential before clipping the bolt. You should probably be solid at 5.8 leading on this pitch, have a strong lead head, or just don't look back before clipping the bolt if you can't sew it up.

Be careful on the rope eating rappels. Had to re-climb and down climb half of pitch 2 because of stuck rope on rappel. Oct 27, 2006
Jason C.
Las Vegas
[Hide Comment] great route... lot of fun, fight for p. 5!!! get there early to beat the crowds... the route is getting very popular! Dec 4, 2006
karl wilcox
Weimar, CA
[Hide Comment] Just a suggestion to anyone who finds that they can't get on Birdland due to crowding (and the crowding can get quite heavy) Rawlpindi is a nice alternative, and it is not really a variation to Birdland as it follows an independent line to the left. The climbing is similar, but protecting the 4th pitch takes a bit of ingenuity with placing cams in pods and pockets between the bolts. Someone may want to put some lap links on the rap anchors on Rawlpindi, as I placed the current grey slings about 9 months ago-- Feb 12, 2007
Yucca Valley, CA
[Hide Comment] what an absolutly fun as hell route!!!...

no hard moves what so ever, but a few moves requiring a little thought...

Pitch three is blast!!!... Mar 15, 2007
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
[Hide Comment] Just to confirm what others have said, a single 60 meter rope is fine for this route. The only difficulties are stretching the first rap down to the top of pitch 4 and down-climbing the last ten feet to the top of pitch 2. Neither situation is serious enough to justify a second rope.
A great route; every pitch is excellent! Mar 15, 2007
Josh Audrey
[Hide Comment] no doubt this was a fun day.if you are even considering doing cat in the hat, blow it off and take a ride up birdland way more fun. my friend and i headed up today and heard a traffic jam up at cat and the hat while we were chillin at a nice pace with nobody else above or below us.great moderate climb. Mar 15, 2007
[Hide Comment] Just back from Red Rocks and a run up the "Bird". Beautiful route! In anticipation of the expected rope stretching 60 meter rap off the last pitch, I did the following: Tied a corda-lette to the anchors at the top of pitch 4, then I led up about 10 ft. and used a nut to "fix" the corda-lette to the bottom of the pitch 5 finger crack. Then on the rap, I simply reached over, clipped into the corda-lette, ran the rap knots right up against my rap device (use beefy knots and a biner through them). Still had to go inverted to reach the bolts though!!! Climbing down the 3 moves to the bolts is easy too. Bottom line is go with the 60 meter rope if that's what you have!!! Follow Bill's advice on the approach, worked well for us. Mar 28, 2007
Oakland Park, Florida
[Hide Comment] Fun Climb, the crack on the third pitch, and final crack on pitch 5 are the highlights of the climb. Just enough to keep you interested. Very easy approach for RR. Just another great RR 5.7 Oct 10, 2007
Los Alamos, NM
[Hide Comment] My partner and I rapped this with a single 60 m and it was no problem (we took the Michael Allen comments as good to go, and they were!). If you can lead this climb, you can easily downclimb the two short sections of 5.4/5.5 on the last two raps; they both are only about 7-10 feet of secure and easy moves. I don't see the point in hauling a second rope for this route.

This route was very good; my only wish is that there had been more sustained climbing at the upper end of the grade on most of the pitches. Nov 24, 2007
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] I was a little disappointed after all the fanfare this route gets. Still, a nice route in a really cool place with some great moves for a 5.7. Even though I know everything on this route has been yarded on I felt the route still had that fragile feeling (I won't be soloing it anytime soon).

If your squeemish there is one "close call" rappel if your using a 60m up high but I found the other belays to be quite easy to navigate a downclimb.

Oh, and be sure and get your own copy of the guidebook photo on the second to last pitch fingercrack. Jan 21, 2008
Las Vegas, Nevada
[Hide Comment] Birdland is becoming more and more popular. On nice days you are likely to have company. You can avoid rapping down onto parties climbing P4 and P5 below you by continuing past the P5 anchor to the nearby anchor at the top of Rawlpindi. Instead of stopping on the small slanted shelf on Birdland's P5 anchor, continue up and left about 40 feet to the Rawlpindi 2-bolt anchor (after checking to be sure no one is coming up Rawlpindi) and belay your follower at the Rawlpindi anchor. It's a one rope rappel to the next 2-bolt anchor below on Rawlpindi. Then use two ropes to rappel down to the anchor on the little ledge at the top of Birdland's P3. Mar 9, 2008
[Hide Comment] marc rosenthal - vegastradguy and I replaced the Big Horn anchor this February (2008). Apr 12, 2008
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] Don't forget the thin gear. Bring small stoppers and small tcus if you're close to your limit. Nov 5, 2008
[Hide Comment] Topos of this route are hard to find, so I posted one here. Comments and corrections are appreciated.

Brutus Nov 27, 2008
Ron Graham
[Hide Comment] Stay alert when you are on pitch 4 if there are climbers above you. A couple that did the 6th pitch accidentally trundled one of the loose stones up there past us. It would have been deadly if it had hit anyone. For this reason, I'd suggest not trying to do the 6th pitch if you have any other teams climbing below you.

The stances at the top of the first 4 pitches are big enough to comfortably fit a group of 3 climbing together. However, the small, triangular shelf at the top of pitch 5 is only big enough for two people, and becomes pretty tight for the two of them when flaking the rope and setting up a rappel.

You can rap each pitch with a single 70M rope, but given that you must do some traversing and searching to find the anchors at the top of pitches 3 and 4, it would be wise to tie the ends of the rope and/or use an autoblock during your rappel. Jan 30, 2009
[Hide Comment] you suggest not climbing the 6th pitch if there are parties climbing below you? perhaps they should have woke up earlier, or maybe picked a different route? Feb 2, 2009
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] i would suggest that no one climb the 6th pitch...ever. its loose, crappy climbing that doesnt serve any purpose. stop at the top of 5, which also happens to be the best pitch on the route. Feb 6, 2009
J Wolfski
slc, ut
[Hide Comment] did this with one 60 meter rope. Not recommended but was able to pull it off with a sketchy rap on Pitch 5 (required reaching down and clipping into anchors on pitch 4, maybe extend your rappel device and this will help). then required about 10 feet of easy down climbing to get to pitch 1 anchors. Apr 14, 2009
J. Albers
[Hide Comment] I have tried rappelling with a single 60m rope and it didn't work....even with a 190lb person on the end to aid with rope stretch. Rapping from the top of pitch 5 left my partner dangling 4-5 above the anchor. Even with knots tied in the end of the rope it wasn't a super pleasant experience (neither was jugging back up the rope). As vegastrad says though, a 70m would seem fine.
Cheers. May 13, 2009
Wasatch Back, UT
[Hide Comment] Great route. But the popularity strains the anchor/rappel arrangement. We were one of five parties, and an alternate rappel route would have been a big bonus. Nov 16, 2009
Jesse Morehouse
[Hide Comment] Fun, mellow route but WAY TOO CONGESTED!!!! We were the first folks there the morning we did it. By the time we rapped we passed 6 parties (on a 5 pitch climb!!!!). I mean, it was a really fun route but not THAT good!!!! If you see people hanging off like grapefruit, go somewhere else and climb some other super cool route. Ive heard there are a few around... Dec 9, 2009
[Hide Comment] easy to do with a single 60m. Only have to downclimb about 10' in an easy chimney section on P2. Single 60m gets you to the anchors on every other pitch. Fun route, but a bit of a monotonous jug-haul the whole way. Apr 17, 2010
Richard Denker
Portland OR
[Hide Comment] Only two double length runners are required for the third pitch one at the bolt and at the next pro placement. All other placements can be protected with regular length runners.

If you're not careful rope drag on the fourth pitch can be worse than the third pitch. (A party a head of us learned that the hard way.)

Do anything short of killing your partner for the fifth pitch. If that does not work, demand pitches 1, 2 and 3. Let him take pitches 4 and 5.

Pitch 1 is fun. Pitch 2 for a 5.7 is thought provoking. Pitch 3 is fun and interesting, not as runout as it looks. The crux of pitch 4 is route finding, if in doubt head right and up (look for a horizontal seam). The start of pitch 5 does not look special, but once above the roof it is a great pitch. May 4, 2010
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] As of 11/23/10, the loose rock at the top of the third pitch is no longer present. The rock below the loose rock has some scarring and a significant amount of sand/dust from the rockfall. If climbing this route in the next few days, be aware of this- extra pro and helmets are advised. Nov 23, 2010
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] Great climb, but incredibly crowded -- even on a weekday. Reminds me of Yogi Berra's quote, "Nobody goes there's too crowded." Started in the "cave" and did the right crack on the 1st pitch. Bad idea -- one spot in the crack ate my rope on the way up, heinous drag. Loved the third pitch. Mar 24, 2011
Jeremy Taylor (JT)
[Hide Comment] Cool Route B. I had alot of fun. I think my favorite part was the P3 traverse, but there shouldn't have been a bolt there, i placed a nice TCU in the undercling (which i took out after i looked up and left) That would have been spicy. Great job. Well traveled (no less than 5 teams on the route the whole day, and one of them ate my sandwinch out of my pack, Grrrrrr) Apr 15, 2011
George Bell
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] This route is great, but the last two belays are not crowd friendly -- just two bolts without much of a stance. The last belay in particular is a hanging belay except for the leader who gets the foothold. To pass the people coming up, we rapped from the top of 4 all the way to 2 with two 60m ropes. A clever ploy until our ropes got hung up on the way down. We also got the rope hung up on the rap from the top of p 2, and others got ropes hung up on the p 1 rap. Recommend you pull your knots over the lip (or better, borrow a 70m rope). Apr 20, 2011
Mike Caruso
[Hide Comment] Great route. Route finding was easy and climbing rarely gets harder than 5.6. P2 was the most sustained (aerobic)and P5 built up to a nice final crux. I think the most run out it gets is on the P2 offwidth moves. P3 can be sewn up with nuts and a #3 camalot before the bolt and with nuts after and above the bolt. I agree that the bolt is not needed. P4 & 5 have gear placements when you need them. We only had one group in front of us and had the climb to ourselves once they rapped by. We rapped cleanly, but there are many features to grab your rope. May 4, 2011
El Segundo, Ca
[Hide Comment] Climbed this today as a group of three. Was beautiful day, route is fun and interesting for a new leader. I felt the pro opportunities were pretty spaced out on pitch four. The climbing is 5.6ish through this section, but the route is bit ambiguous at this point and it feels like you are climbing into the unknown until the anchors finally pop into view. We rapped with double 60's which was a huge pain in my ass managing all that rope at the hanging belays up top while trying to rap past other parties. Our ropes did not get stuck. Good route. Oct 27, 2011
[Hide Comment] Climbed Birdland this past weekend. A single 60M rope DOES NOT work. A group above us rapping down from pitch 5 did not reach the pitch 4 anchors and it created a real mess! Nov 23, 2011
Carl A
brooklyn, ny
[Hide Comment] Do these 'land (frogland, birdland) have anything to do with all those 'land gunk's routes (disneyland, ect)?

Sure dont look like gunks routes... Dec 8, 2011
Las Vegas, nv
[Hide Comment] There is a chockstone ready to fall out half way up the second pitch. It seems somewhat secure when pushed down but I gave it a lite tap upwards and it moved very easily. It's about 1' around and large enough to be serious. Oct 29, 2012
[Hide Comment] Great climb. Didn't do the 6th pitch because of the comments from other climbers that it wasn't worth it. We rapped the whole route with one 70M rope. The 5th pitch is the toughest right at the end of the pitch. Don't go firing up for the last hold that looks like a ledge. It's not a ledge.

The rap down from the 3rd pitch can eat your rope. Throw your rope out as far as you can to keep it from falling into the crack. When you pull it make sure you try to whip it out away from the wall. This is hard when there are a bunch of people climbing below you.

As someone said before the approach is easiest if you go past the wall and double back up the switch backs. It's a lot longer approach than the 30 minutes in the guidebook. More like an hour over some tough terrain.

Very enjoyable route. Nov 20, 2012
[Hide Comment] The very end of P5, basically the last move before the anchor, has a loose rock in the left handhold. We would have tossed it, but there were people below us somewhere. Rapped down no problem with a 70m, passing another party coming up to the P2 belay. Passing people at the higher belays could causes quite the interesting traffic jam. Good intro route for the area. Dec 8, 2012
Ashley allard
Las Vegas, nv
[Hide Comment] Climbed this today and had a blast. Had a bit of a chilly start at 7am but as the sun hit the wall the temp was perfect. On the way down we rapped past a couple parties from Phoenix. Jan 6, 2013
C Archibolt
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Really fun and varied route. I led all the pitches. P5 is the crux, but P3 is the most fun. If I were fighting for one of the leads, definitely P3.

Also, we were climbing on 60m half ropes. We were able to rappel from the top of P5 to the top of P3. It was a rope stretcher, but it worked. Only issue was the rope got snagged a few times. Definitely tie knots in the rope if you attempt this. Mar 24, 2013
G. Vesp
Las Vegas, Nevada
[Hide Comment] Great climb!! Rock can be somewhat brittle on the first pitch. The third pitch traverse and the last 25 feet of pitch 5 are awesome IMO!! We climbed on a 70 meter rope and I was glad that we did not have two 60's with a knot when we started to rap. Quite a few snag hazards when pulling. If you have a 70, I would use it on this climb and save yourself some hassel. Great day!! Oct 23, 2013
mojojojo Cee
Los Angeles, CA
[Hide Comment] Climb this on Saturday, use a suppose to be 70m rope (which I tihnk it was only 60M), but I think the rope was short. cause when we were rapping down from P5 to P4, we are 5' short to anchor. I end up down climb to P4 anchor.
then again on P3 to P2, and P2 to P1.

Also, find a stopping stuck in the crack on P3 right after the traverse. if that's yours, email me and descripe it, and i will get it back to you. Oct 28, 2013
[Hide Comment] It is easy to get your ropes stuck on the rappel. We got one of our twin ropes stuck today (March 13). Luckily there was another party and they let us go down on their rope. We are heading back tomorrow morning to get our green/yellow rope. Mar 13, 2014
[Hide Comment] Great Route! That finger crack at the top was awesome. The only thing that wasn't awesome was that I dropped my brand new FiveTen Anasazi Verde left shoe from the top and watched it bounce down the wall. We didn't know where it landed (or if it did) and so it couldn't be found. If you find it, e-mail Other than that it was an amazing route and an amazing day. Mar 21, 2014
Jon Booth
[Hide Comment] The rappels for P5 & P4 can be combined with 60m doubles. Knot the ends- there will only be 1m of extra rope! May 1, 2014
[Hide Comment] We were on this climb Wednesday and not one other party showed up the whole time. I was shocked! Fun climb, but didn't get to do what sounds like the funnest pitch because new rope was twisting so bad was having trouble getting it through belay device on pitch 4, which was a little nerve racking. Oct 24, 2014
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
[Hide Comment] Fixed a blue mastercam on P1 yesterday - good luck getting it out. Hint, it went in from the bottom. Otherwise, fun route and 70m recommended. A bit disappointed by the hyped final crack, climbs without jambs or finger locks. Mar 15, 2015
Chattanooga, TN
[Hide Comment] Climbed this with Eric several months ago. This was my first trad multi-pitch. Great route. We climbed the first five pitches and then rapped. The fifth is the money pitch. Amazing. The sixth looked pretty terrible, but it would be fun to climb sometime, if nothing else but to honor the first ascentionists. Given the loose rock, I would only do this if there were no parties below. We hiked back to our car, drove to Calico Basin, and climbed Physical Graffiti afterward. Mar 19, 2015
M Bageant
Los Angeles, CA
[Hide Comment] For a little more beta on rapping the route---

If you want to climb this route with a *single 60m rope:*

Rapping P5: If your 60m rope is cut slightly long (maybe 62-64m), the rap will be almost perfect. If your 60m is exactly 60m like mine, and you are a light climber, you may find yourself 8-10 feet above the anchor.

I would suggest if you suspect you might find yourself in this situation, (1) on the way up, leave a long sling on the P4 anchor that you can fish up with your foot to give yourself extra reach; and (2) have the heaviest climber rap, fish up the sling, clip in, and downclimb first. The lighter climber can then rap and toss a tied-in cord or sling or whatever down to the anchored heavier climber and complete the downclimb as well.

Rapping P4 and P3 is fine on a single 60m.

As per comments above, P2 and P1 seem to require more downclimbing. We combined our rope with our friends' 60m for these pitches so I cannot comment. If your 60m is cut long, then I might suggest stashing your tagline or second rope on the ledge at the top of P2 to save yourself having to carry it.

(Alternatively---if the anchor for P4 were moved up about 5 feet, you could rap the upper three pitches comfortably with a 60m!) Mar 29, 2015
[Hide Comment] To avoid getting your rope stuck when rappelling pitch 2, do a very short rappel sideways to the left to another anchor just left of the chimney, and then to the top of pitch 1. I didn't heed this advice and got my ropes stuck as a reward.
Very fun climb. Last few feet of pitch 5 seemed a bit hard for 5.7. Nov 11, 2015
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
[Hide Comment] Did a repeat of this route this past Saturday after about 4 years ago. If you're comfortable leading 5.10 I would just bring a single rack 0.4-3 C4, set of TCUs or same size small cams and a rack of small nuts.

Build a quad since all belays are bolted Nov 15, 2015
[Hide Comment] Beautiful route and fantastic day soaking in the sun on a cold December day.
Rapped with a single 70.
Make sure to exercise caution pulling your rope as others have said. We almost got ours stuck! Dec 26, 2015
[Hide Comment] Climbed this on Sat Jan 9, 2015. It was chilly to start, but warmed up when the sun came out. As others have mentioned, the route is in the sun the whole day.

Unfortunately, we dropped a rack of nuts (wild country offset superlights, and a few DMM offsets) on a red wild country helium carabiner. If anyone finds it please PM me. Thanks! Jan 11, 2016
SP Boston
Watertown, MA
[Hide Comment] Beautiful climb.

Two potential hazards:

1. Many parties on the route, and upper belays are very tight. Be prepared for major traffic and pile-ups.

2. Rope pulls are tricky (our rope was stuck twice)

Advice: DO NOT link the rap from 4 to 2, even if you have long enough doubles. Just don't do it. Far too easy to get ropes stuck. Mar 11, 2016
Brad H
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] Amazing route!

Got a light blue/green 70m rope stuck on pitch 3 the night of Jan 1, 2017. (didn't see the post recommending against rapping from 4 to 2!).

Going back this morning, Jan 2 to get it. If you find it before us, there's a case of beer for you for bringing it down! Thanks

Also recommend against linking P3/4 due to high rope drag. Jan 2, 2017
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
[Hide Comment] Fun in the sun climbing. Doing P6 is worth it, no more loose than any of the rest of the route (which really isn't loose at all). Easy raps, climbs really quick. Feb 14, 2017
[Hide Comment] Climbing on Birdland today our rope got snagged on the rap down to P2. It is a blue bicolor rope. We have taped contact details onto it and would be very grateful if it It could be collected and held for us. There’s a case of beer by way of thanks to a good samaritan! Please call or text Phil at 917-445-0833. Many thanks!! Nov 10, 2017
Annie Sue
Kalispell, MT
[Hide Comment] Fun 5 pitches! Really chill, great pro. Nice for beginners.

Would highly recommend bringing an anchor to accommodate the high traffic of parties climbing up and rapping down. Saw several parties go directly from their daisy chain into the bolt... which makes for a huge cluster when sometimes there are 4+ people at a hanging belay!

Rapping and rope snags- agree with posts below DON'T RAP FROM 4 TO 2! We met up with Suneet & Phil's crew and experienced this first hand and in the dark heh. Thank you Remy for getting that rope down! Nov 12, 2017
Sir Camsalot
thankgodchickenhead, Ut
[Hide Comment] Got up at 6am to be hiking by 7. We were the the third party up the route and thankfully had nobody rapping over us. As we started up, parties 4-10 lined up. As we were rapping down we encountered many unhappy parties stuck at belays and even encountered 2!!!! parties of 3 fighting at the top of pitch 1 about the proper ethics of climbing routes in parties of 3. It was a shit show from start to finish. I can only imagine how unpleasant it would be to lead this route with parties rapping down next to you. If there was ever a trade route that needed a dedicated rap route 30 ft climber's right, it's this route. That being said, the route was fun. The crowd was a bitch. Nov 15, 2017
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
[Hide Comment] Just want to echo the need for a dedicated rap route. One that pulls cleaner and doesn't impede the already intense Conga Line factor. This is always gonna be a trade route just because of that last 30ft of the climb. It's dangerous to have so many (mostly n00bish) teams passing over each other up and down the route.

I actually thought the p3 traverse was way more engaging than the so called money pitch. The last 30ft is cool because of what it is, a narrow splitter on an otherwise blankish slab, but the climbing is short and straightforward, complete with intermediate rest stances. The traverse requires you to think about placement, has good movement, and is way more airy. Jun 14, 2018
Frank Robertson
Ridgway, CO
[Hide Comment] If you are leading P5 and there is a party at the top preparing to rap, it would really be in your interest to wait for them to clear the anchor before you start up the thin crack... maybe 5 minutes on the ledge just below the finish to avoid a belay cluster!# and potentially being brushed off. Beautiful route. Oct 20, 2018
Xi Lian
New York
[Hide Comment] Fun route! My partner and I thought P2 and P3 were just as good as P5. Jan 1, 2019
Miguel D
[Hide Comment] A note on the rappels:
During the second rappel, you'll be looking to reach a set of anchors about 25ft directly to the right of the anchors atop P3. From these anchors, you'll rap down to the top of P2. This anchor is the only one not shared with the climbing anchors Jan 7, 2019
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] I was told that the current descent beta is to rap spectrum to avoid clusters at the birdland belays. Are people actually doing that?

Seems to me the spectrum rap route is pretty far right of birdland and attempting to rap spectrum might get beginners into trouble. Maybe I am wrong and the spectrum raps aren't as far right as they appear. Anyone heard similar beta? Jan 28, 2019
Ryan Locati
[Hide Comment] Curious about a variation of P3. From P2 belay we traversed far left on a ramp then stepped across a gully to a lone bolt and up a vertical face. Felt 10a R ish. I was able to clip the bolt while still standing on the ledge and it was the only pro for about 30ft. Despite the runout the climbing was really fun and engaging. Belayed at a nice ledge 20ft straight left of Birdland's P4 bolt anchor. Anyone know anything about this? I am very curious about this as it was actually very fun. Mar 4, 2019