Birdland P2 Rappel Anchor

This post was originally a comment in Birdland

Ron Olsen wrote:The anchor atop the second pitch is a knotted sling and quick link attached to two offset bolts. The equalization on this anchor isn't perfect for rappelling; it needs to be fixed. Another quick link (or rap rings) should be added. Even better, put chains on the bolts.

Sorry the webbing on the top of P2 was not quite equalized. I put it on to match the lengths of some of the old junk before cutting the old crap away. In hindsight, I could have probably cut ALL of the old junk off and gotten it more even. Though I do hold that it is pretty close and not a danger. If moved 'soon' the webbing I placed may not be too tight to re-equalize yet.

I agree, it could be better. But having just rapped this a week or two ago, I explicitly remember my partner saying, "I've rapped off of lots worse." When I asked him if he wanted me to add a sling.

Maybe I am old fashioned, but I hate it when you sanitize a route so much that "sport climbers" flock there. If a climber doesn't know a good piece of webbing from not, the two words are natural selection.

Then again, maybe I have become too blase' about rapping off of things, and natural selection will get me soon.

After you spend time in the mountains and desert lands, you come to that rappel anchor and think, "solid."

But maybe this gets to a bigger question, isn't the safety of the climbing community more important than my elitism? So maybe I should just shut up and bring chains to install on my future anchors?

Ron Olsen wrote:This post was originally a comment in Birdland Tony, I suggested two slings for the sliding X, not one. It's very unlikely that a bolt will fail, so I think it's more important to have the anchor equalized (with redundant slings or chains) than it is to worry about extension in the event of a bolt failure.

Slightly off topic, but a Sliding X with load-limiting knots makes the whole system redundant and eliminates the need for two slings. If you're not familiar with this, there is beta on it in most instructional climbing books.

Jason

Jason,

For rappel anchors, UV degradation from exposure to sunlight will severely weaken sling material over time. As Tony mentioned above, another issue is having slings chewed on by critters. That's why I like to have at least two slings at a rappel anchor. One old sling could fail at multiple points at the same time due to either of these causes.

Ron Olsen wrote:Jason, For rappel anchors, UV degradation from exposure to sunlight will severely weaken sling material over time. As Tony mentioned above, another issue is having slings chewed on by critters. That's why I like to have at least two slings at a rappel anchor. One old sling could fail at multiple points at the same time due to either of these causes.

Understood. But if both slings are put there at the same time there is no difference between a Sliding X with load limiting knots and two separate slings. The degradation is equal unless the two slings on the anchor are put there at different times.

There is no doubt in my mind that the best option for a high use route like Birdland is chains...unfortunately we don't all carry such things in the mountains all the time.

My personal recommendation on the UV issue in Red Rock is to be extremely cautious. This is especially true at the beginning of the RR season each year after the summer sun has beaten down on everything for months on end...

On a completely separate note, Red Rock sling material doesn't tend to get chewed on as much as slings in other environments or climbing areas. I don't know why this is. It appears that the biggest threat around here to our anchors is sun.

Jason

You know what I do if I come to a jingus anchor?

I fix it, add something, knick something, make it bomber, rap and go home.

I don't wail about how janky it is, I don't need group therapy to validate my position, I just do it.

Where is the problem with this rap anchor? I didn't even bat an eye when we used it.

Thanks, John.

We've all rapped off much worse anchors than this. If this were a remote desert tower, we'd be glad the anchor was as good as it is.

However, Birdland is soon to become one of the most popular moderate classics in Red Rock, joining Cat in the Hat, Johnny Vegas, Olive Oil, Frogland, and Dark Shadows. Climbers will be lined up wanting to tick this route.

The anchors on a heavily traveled moderate classic should be maintained at a higher standard than those on a seldom-done backcountry route.

Just so people are clear, the anchor PRESENTLY is BOMB PROOF. The concern expressed was that in my doubly-redundant system, tied off and all, that there was an inch of slack on one side, so the other side was taking the weight. This of course depends somewhat on where you lay the rope.
But meanwhile, it is safe to be on. Nobody's life is in danger. I have certainly rapped on worse, and I've had RARE opportunities to rap on better.

The discussion at hand is what it should eventually be replaced with, not if it is presently safe.