[Hide Comment] Edgy first pitch and run-out second to a wonderful summit.

Unfortunately a lot of people seem to rap off after the first pitch, evidenced by a large number of slings which I once removed from the bolt anchor at pitch 1.

A worthy, albeit harder, companion to Mental Physics.

Position, character, location. Jan 7, 2003

[Hide Comment] I'd give the route a 5.10a. I remember it being quite a bit harder than the advertised 5.9. Maybe it is just the space between bolts. I think I only climbed the first pitch and came down. Feb 6, 2005

[Hide Comment] I think the reason this climb feels harder than 5.9 to some is that (in my opinion) the difficulty stays pretty consistant in the first pitch right off the deck with potential for some nice size falls that someone climbing at or near their current limit will certainly take seriously. Becasue the moves are all there and solid, this factor should make the movement of this climb quite enjoyable for those who comfortably lead at this grade (at Josh) and add to the feeling of adventure for those pushing their limits. The route also rises steeply in an upper section (P1) setting it apart from many low angle slabs whos' sloping character can hide the exposure and the feeling of being runout--something I think very much adds to the route' Apr 18, 2005

[Hide Comment] I loved this route. I just TRed the first pitch but the movements were so much fun once I figured them out. The crux seemed to be near the first bolt. Gotta trust the JTree friction. Jan 29, 2008

[Hide Comment] Decided not to lead this one, as the first bolt is damn high over a bone breaking fall, 30 minutes from your car. On toprope, I found that the bolts are quite logically placed (just at the difficult parts) and that the climb is pretty cool.

Recommended if you have the balls. Dec 13, 2010

[Hide Comment] Indeed the first bolt is rather high. The rest of the climb doesn't kick back until the top and even then it's run out but easy. Many of the holds were ity bity but there. The combination of which makes this a fun climb indeed! Dec 16, 2010

[Hide Comment] This was a good warmup to get the footwork dialed. We were waiting on Mental Physics to open up. It was one where you steel yourself for the climb up to the next bolt once you gain the previous. Since the comparison comes up, this is definitely a 5.9 if Loose Lady is 5.10a. Jan 5, 2012

[Hide Comment] Definitely one of the most sustained bolted 5.9s I've ever been on at J Tree. The bolts are FAR apart - Colonel Mustard's comment that clipping a bolt lets you mentally prepare yourself for the climb to the next one is ACCURATE! It's all there. Great stuff. Nov 22, 2012

[Hide Comment] Wonderful route with lots of tiny edges.

First bolt is 25 feet up with some tough moves to get to it. Plenty of exposure and a bad place to fall. Might deserve an R rating for this and also for long runout. Dec 11, 2013

[Hide Comment] I just did this route Sunday 2/16/2014, this was my first successful lead of a 5.9 at J-tree. It took me two separate attempts. Very crimpy and yes start is 10m run out above a cactus that looks like it has been landed on more than a dozen times. Wow, I would give this climb four stars though. It is a must do if you are waiting for “Mental Physics” like we were. Feb 17, 2015

[Hide Comment] Getting to the first bolt was harder than it looked from below, but not overly difficult. Moves at 2nd bolt felt 10a but are well protected with the bolt right at your waist. The rest of the climb is sustained 5.9 with some pretty serious run out sections where a fall would result in a serious injury. Bolts are well placed though if you are feeling solid at the grade. If leading, do not pass up the second pitch. It is easier than the first with bigger holds, but technical enough to keep your attention. The "crux" on the second pitch if you even want to call it that is probably the short sequence just after the anchor which is protected by a third bolt above the anchor bolts to prevent a factor 2 on your belayer. The runout after the next bolt is on huge knobs and really easy climbing to the anchor. Bring a shoulder length sling for the 3rd bolt on pitch 1 to prevent rope drag. Dec 28, 2017

[Hide Comment] Heady to the first bolt. Very different style of climbing than what I was used to but full of what I came out to J-Tree for!
That 5th bolt does not exist. May 21, 2018

[Hide Comment] why does the type say trad but protection says there are 5 bolts? Sep 2, 2023

[Hide Comment] Rafael: Many bolted routes in Jtree are not what most would consider to be sport routes and referred to as "trad bolted". That means that bolts may only protect difficult moves, and significant runouts are possible in easier sections. This route felt fairly safe to me, though a sport climb it is not, and big falls are possible. Sep 26, 2023

[Hide Comment] A nice way to take the edge off the R rating is by climbing Mental Physics, then rapping D&C (assuming there's nobody in que) and clipping the first bolt on the way down. With the first bolt clipped the lead felt a bit more reasonable (no longer worried about hitting the deck), but I was still pretty psyched to onsight. Expect some sizeable runouts and 5.9 moves with those shiny bolts a ways below, but nothing death defying. A very very memorable and good route. We only did the first pitch as we were tagging a line for a second party that wished to top-rope D&C, the summit of Lenitcular was particularly cold and windy, and Breakfast Of Champions was calling. The terrain seemed to ease off quickly after the anchors. FOUR stars, and I mean it! Feb 5, 2024

[Hide Comment] Leave the cams at the bottom; there aren't any placements. Really just a few bolts, but there's always one nearby a tricky move, so while it is run out, it still feels pretty well protected. Link both pitches! Nov 7, 2024