Eddie traversing one of the narrower sections of snowy ridge.

All Locations > Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Indian Peaks &… > Mt Bancroft > E Ridge Direct (5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3 Steep Snow R)

Eddie traversing one of the narrower sections of snowy ridge.

ID 108607144 ·

Flag This Photo

· Copyright Violation?

The green line shows a direct start, but to me it seemed rather short and not worth bothering with ropes etc. especially since there's such a nice snow climb up around it.<br>
<br>
We climbed the snow (1st red line) to the base of the wall, then our P1 (blue line), the P2 (2nd red line).<br>
<br>
P1 was a full 60m.<br>
P2 was ~45m.<br>
<br>
Many variations exist.

Climbing one of the steeper sections of the ridge. Note the footprints on the ridge section far below.

Rate Photo

4.2 from 5 votes

Eric Klammer

Jan 24, 2014

“Eddie traversing one of the narrower sections of snowy ridge.”

0 Comments

Nearby Photos

Eddie traversing one of the narrower sections of snowy ridge.

Climbing one of the steeper sections of the ridge. Note the footprints on the ridge section far below.

<em>Claytonia megarhiza</em> (alpine spring beauty).

Knife edge snow crossing. Click to enlarge and see our footprints. Left foot on the south face, right foot on the north face!

Look for this sign on Alice Rd. and park here!

Eddie coming up the first section of headwall before hitting the ridge proper.

Swirly rock on the approach.

Part of my anchor atop P1. I used a piton and my ice tool in frozen turf. The anchor building options are slim and I ran out of gear!

Eddie traversing the first section of ridge.

Reynolds and Stewart Lakes.

Low on the NE headwall, gaining some rock to begin the roped section of climbing. 1/31/09

James Peak.

Getting closer.

Fall River Reservoir.

Rappelling into the notch.

Looking north on the approach.

Erick on the approach.

Climbing out of the notch.

Enjoying some exposure.

View from atop our P1 looking down the route. Scottish grade probably with all the snow/ice and frozen turf.

Brett high on the ridge.

Beginning the lead on P1.

<em>Mertensia alpina</em> (alpine bluebells).

Gearing up to lead P1.

James Peak from the summit of Bancroft.

More easy scrambling to the false summits.

Fall River Reservoir (notch on the left is the crux).

Another view of the lakes to the north.

The glissade.

The pyramid-shaped formation is the NE Face of Bancroft.

White-tailed ptarmigan (<em>Lagopus leucura</em>), camo view.

The descent.

The scrambling starts (I traversed climber's right of the route proper to make things more interesting).

<em>Hymenoxys grandiflora</em> (old man of the mountain).

Caroline, Reynolds, and Stewart Lakes.

White-tailed ptarmigan (<em>Lagopus leucura</em>).

Lots of easy ridge scrambling.

Looking back at the route.

More easy stuff.

Another view to the north.

The 5.2 notch upclimb.

Rapping into the notch.

The 5.2 notch downclimb.

Eddie about halfway up the ridge.

Looking down to Caroline Lake.

Climbing out of the notch.

Looking back down the route.

A marmot eating the webbing for the rap anchor.

The green line shows a direct start, but to me it seemed rather short and not worth bothering with ropes etc. especially since there's such a nice snow climb up around it.<br>
<br>
We climbed the snow (1st red line) to the base of the wall, then our P1 (blue line), the P2 (2nd red line).<br>
<br>
P1 was a full 60m.<br>
P2 was ~45m.<br>
<br>
Many variations exist.

Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started

onX products are built by adventurers, for adventurers. We believe that every adventurer needs to know where to go, to know where they stand, and to be able to share their experiences.
About onX
Careers

iOS App Store

Android App Store

© 2026 onX Maps, Inc. Terms·Privacy