Mountain Project Logo
Lost Creek Valley.
ID 106795306 ·

Rate Photo
     Clear Rating
  5.0 from 2 votes

Casey Bernal
Jun 12, 2010
Lost Creek Valley.  
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
Bachar-Yerian? Jun 17, 2011
Well, it all began when people started bolting... while climbing on lead. First of all it takes about 30 minutes to hand drill a bolt (in good conditions, much less milking a barely-no-hands rest). This kind of didn't lend itself to placing a bolt every 5 feet. So, the climber would try to go as far as possible before placing another bolt. Another factor (a key one actually) is that sometimes there wouldn't be an adequate stance for quite a ways.

After a while, it became kind of cool to go even further than possible. Somebody else dying on your route would make your route legendary.

Then, when people first began rap bolting they generally just placed enough bolts to "adequately" protect the hard climbing. Some of these routes are kind of scarier than the bolted on lead stuff in some ways. Often steep, pumpy, and no chance to freeze up in fear at one stance for 30 minutes or more.

Finally, rap drilling started leaning towards providing a generally safe route.

To me, none of these are wrong or right. Just different. I like them all in their own ways. Jun 17, 2011
Another example would be if you just finished a pretty healthy runout, and went to clip into a buttonhead... only to have it bust off on your biner. Don't laugh, this has happened to me and it went from R to X in a pretty big hurry. Jun 18, 2011

Nearby Photos