Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Chipping
|
Several boulders in the RI/MA area have been modified from their original state so they could be climbed easier. A couple are clear they’ve been chiseled. The list is up to six climbs so far. I don’t know if all have actually been modified or perhaps there’s another story. Some is hearsay, some is speculative finger pointing, some are clearly chipped. Whatever the case it seems to be the same party/person. Whoever you are, stop. Go home. Nobody wants you around anymore. You’ve destroyed several climbs in the area you selfish POS. Clearly the offender is using MP for find their next climb they want to destroy. Perhaps there needs to be a big label pasted over every single RI and MA climb about how we have a chipping problem. Put it right at the top. Maybe even a pop up that can’t be closed until the disclosure is read. I don’t know if those are fair options but this person has to be stopped. This is why people hate MP. This is why people gatekeep. The proverbial one bad apple. List of climbs being called into question. This doesn’t not mean they’ve actually been modified. It could be natural breakage and or a mistake but when there’s smoke…. Glass Elephant High School Egg Gritish Invasion (worst offense IMO as every hold has been changed on a classic) Conquest of Irrational Heinz 57 Coke Bottle Boulder |
|
Why do you think they’re using MP to find problems to modify? |
Climb Onwrote: Why do you think they aren’t? |
Dan Knisellwrote: Dude I’m just asking a simple question. No need to be a dick. I think chipping is horrific I’m just asking what’s making you say “clearly the offender is using MP”. |
|
Maybe the original grippy holds on the pebbles were getting super slick from so much traffic and this person thought they were doing the community a favor. I'd probably check Instagram for the said routes and see who has been sending them recently, then go from there. None of the pebble wrestlers I know use mtn proj FYI. |
|
As more and more climbers transition from indoors to outdoors, this is bound to happen. It’s probably someone who can climb v7 in the gym, but obviously not outdoors, so they chip the holds to make the grades similar (it’s worth noting that this is just a guess, I don’t know how bad these are now). The best way to fix this is probably to educate people on bouldering ethics (or just climbing ethics in general). If it gets really bad, someone could put one of those cameras that takes a photo when it detects movement, but that would be a pain to do. Harder grades indoors could also help - getting rid of those unreal expectations would help stop this, but gyms would never do it. We could also try and make climbing less accessible, at least outdoors - this is probably an unpopular opinion, but if climbers that are new to climbing outdoors are causing all this damage, should we make it easier to find information about those climbs online? I would argue that we shouldn’t. |
|
Rocks thrown from a glass house OP ... You have nearly 300 shared boulder routes... Unhappy to hear this as I am breaking into all the good bouldering Mass has to offer since I've moved here, but also thanks in a way cause I use MP to find little local spots ... double-edged sword. BUT I will say I am annoyed by the bouldering gym I attend that has nearly zero people going outside and all seem to lack knowledge on any ethics- from chipping to even just brushing chalk tick marks Keep Gym climbers in the Gym ... where they can be safe from weather and unfair outdoor V grades. I tell ppl all the time "don't go outside, there's nothing there for you ..." cause if you need to be convinced the outdoor lines are better, you're better off inside anyway. |
Dan Knisellwrote: You sound fun |
|
Not sure which is worse. Chipping or toxic people in climbing (OP). |
|
I’m not much of a boulderer but Dan has been incredibly helpful and gracious with his time with me lately representing one of our local LCO’s and showing up to do backbreaking trail work in the rain. |
Alec Bakerwrote: Too bad he doesn't play nice with others and flunked logic 101 |
|
I'm really disappointed about Heinz 57. I lost a lot of skin working on the FA and now one of the holds appears to have been smoothed out with a dremel. WTF... |
Rock Climberwrote: Make stickers, please |
|
This sucks, I was planning to go to Gilbert Hills once things dried up and try Gritish Invasion but now it’s ruined. |
|
Just put up game cameras near all the V9-V12’s, you’ll find the person for sure. |
Will McFarlandwrote: That's not even a real question |
Lincoln Mahanwrote: I'm debating on an order of 1000 (3"x3"), if ppl want them Ill order and do a self address stamp and send them out... thoughts?  EDIT**** i dont wanna derail the chipping convo - made a new thread for stickers, Im doing it.... |
|
Superlame! Did gen next get chipped on the coke bottle? and what happended to conquest on fred? 2 gems imho. I wonder about other climbs at similar grades at other climbing areas? Unfortunately this person is bound to see the error of there ways far too late. |
|
I wrote a note to Rockspot. I think they take gym climbers out to Lincoln Woods to teach them about bouldering and I wanted to make sure that they are teaching these people new to bouldering that chipping holds is cheating and totally invalid. Keeping new climbers in the gym is not going to work. We have to understand that the overwhelming majority of new climbers will be well behaved if they are educated about the transition to outdoor climbing. |
