Mt. Denali Expedition advice

Yep.  Wondering if anyone has good data on anything beating a Reactor for best overall solution.  I’m open to ideas and experiments, but haven’t found anything yet to knock the Reactor off it’s perch. 

It basically comes down to whether you want to do some actual cooking on a typical 3wk West Butt trip. Melting snow I think simplicity (Reactor) wins. Just warm up the canister a smidge and keep it in a water bath while running the stove.  

Does the water bath (a small dish of water?) keep the canister from freezing over on the bottom?

Yeah it just keeps it warmer, canisters get colder during use (regardless of ambient temperature).

SinRopa wrote:

I'm working around the ridiculously low daily MP post limit so I had to delete my above post.  For reference: "Eh, everyone has different experiences up there.  On the lower mountain a lot of teams travel at night to beat the mid-day heat, and Mons work well on that schedule.  Even when it's scorching, I've used a lighter sock and been fine.  The best thing about an 8000m type boot is the simplicity.  No hauling a second pair of summit boots, no dealing with overboots, no separate gaiters, built in insurance for your toes, etc.  For a first time Denali climber on a standard route, I'd absolutely recommend going with something like the Mons.  They've even got those special ski-compatible ones now, so no excuse for losing your toes because you were in ski boots."

---new post---

Not bringing skis or snowshoes?  You're definitely going to want one or the other.  Sure, you'll read about the guys who've done the West Butt on a speed ascent in spiked running shoes, but you've gotta remember that they were in a position to wait all season for optimal trail conditions and clear weather, and then they're only out there for 12 hours or so (as opposed to 3+ weeks).   My last time up there we got snowed in around 11k for a few days and were basically postholing in snowshoes while breaking trail moving up after it cleared.  Similar story on the way down.  I can't even imagine not having some sort of flotation on your feet. 

Plenty of people advocate for skis, when is probably the way to go if you've got that experience.  But, if you're newer to roped cross-country ski travel with a pack and sled, snowshoes might be a simpler option.  You can also stay roped up on the way down in showshoes.  I've seen guided group ski descents where everyone was roped together and wrangling sleds and it looked horrendously miserable.  FWIW, I'm a strictly resort skier, and Denali (x3) and Vinson (x1) are the only places I've ever used showshoes, so I've always rented the things, either from the guide service when I went with them or from Alaska Mountaineering in Anchorage when going unguided.  Considering the significant investment you're likely making already to go do this climb, it's worth it to drop the extra $ and get a pair one way or the other.

Figured I'd jump into the fray and ask a potentially relevant question. As I'm in the market for new boots; specifically Oly Mons Cube, do you have any advice in terms of sizing? Ultimately, these will be used for a mid-May Denali trip and some potential 7000M peaks. Can’t see much further into the future. I've heard go up half to a full size (aka 44.5 to 45 / 45.5) to compensate for socks & swelling.

Nick Uwrote:

Figured I'd jump into the fray and ask a potentially relevant question. As I'm in the market for new boots; specifically Oly Mons Cube, do you have any advice in terms of sizing? Ultimately, these will be used for a mid-May Denali trip and some potential 7000M peaks. Can’t see much further into the future. I've heard go up half to a full size (aka 44.5 to 45 / 45.5) to compensate for socks & swelling.

I'm 44.5 in regular shoes and in Mon's 11.5 (EU45).  

I think Mons "Cube" will be an overkill for Denali in May and 7000M peaks.  That is a boot for winter 8000 meter.  

Piotr 123wrote:

I'm 44.5 in regular shoes and in Mon's 11.5 (EU45).  

I think Mons "Cube" will be an overkill for Denali in May and 7000M peaks.  That is a boot for winter 8000 meter.  

Appreciate the input! My boot quiver isn't that great right now. As another option, I'll also be investing in a new pair of G2 Evos once they finally make it to the U.S later this year. If it really comes down to it, I'm fine having the Oly Mons sit in my closet until I find myself on a 8000M [or I'll sell them off to another unfortunate soul.] It'll be good to have the Oly Mons soon as I can tinker with them on a Denali Prep course come mid-Feb.

Piotr 123wrote:

overboots are a good option but do a lot of testing with the crampons u are using to make sure the overboots don’t affect the security. I found that fully automatic crampons didn’t work well with overboots since my front welt was too small. 
My biggest dilemma are boots on Denali.  

Mons are too hot from Base Camp to Camp 3.  But, perfect from Camp 3 to summit.

La Sportiva/Spantik or similar are perfect Base Camp to Camp 3.  But, maybe too cold from Camp 3 to summit.  Optional "overboots" are a good option.

The first pair of boots I bought were Scarpa 6000’s for Alaska. Used them for some winter hiking, ice climbing, and some peaks in the PNW so far but not Alaska yet. I oversized my boot and the extra length is inconvenient. It doesn’t feel as secure, and being a full shank boot, makes my step feel a little more like I’m walking with a miniature diving board attached. I went one full size up and wish it was no more than a half size at most. I would agree to the above that upsizing isn’t what I would do I if I bought a new pair. The lacing system is pretty good though and cinches pretty well. 

I’ve primarily used the second pair I bought, a 3 season boot in my regular size and I much prefer the fitted feel. I know a 3 season boot is irrelevant for Denali but I’m just giving my ¢2 about boot size. 

SinRopa wrote:

I didn't size up.  My experience with the Mons (standard, haven't used the Cube) has been that socks/swelling changes your foot's volume/width much more than length, and I've always been able to adjust for this using the Mons' lacing system.

Follow-on question, is heel lift to be expected? Having done some research it doesn’t seem too unusual and there are work arounds which I intend to explore.

Sharing a briefly update: I typically wear a 44.5, but after a lengthy conversation with the lead for international programs he suggested up sizing to avoid toe bang. With that in mind, got myself a 45 and 45.5 to experiment with. I’m shocked how well the 45 feels out of the box, but noticing a tad bit of heel lift.

@Nick U. 

Hmmm.  YMMV, but I’ve always found properly sized and fitted boots - micro-adjusted as needed with the lacing, socks, etc throughout the climb, is the best way to go.   Trying to take shots in the dark with jumping sizes is likely to land you out of one frying pan into another, or the whole fire.

I know everyone’s feet are different but....

Did this guide give you this advice after focused assessment on your particular feet issues and history or is this just a blanket recommendation for everyone they guide?  

David Maverwrote:

Uphill Athlete had a great video about Denali and climbing logistics and equipment. It appears they took it down from their YouTube channel but maybe poke about on their website.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCXvBpM9PsI

Still up. Super interesting video/presentation