Protecting run-outs

Max R wrote:

Lol.. I’m not sure you understand what a fifi hook is.

I think he was going for skyhook

Max R wrote:

Lol.. I’m not sure you understand what a fifi hook is.

In the Black Hills you just fifi hook a passing bald eagle and all is safe. 

Something to think about: if the "run-out" is protectable, then it is not a run-out.

You've gotten a broad range of advice on the type of gear to use, so I think you're covered there, but I also want to make a plug for down climbing.  If you start to feel like you are too far out over your gear and the terrain above feels too tough, you can always down climb a bit and either get back below your next piece or make your fall more manageable.  

It's a useful skill to have, if you ever start getting into trad.  

BJB wrote: You've gotten a broad range of advice on the type of gear to use, so I think you're covered there, but I also want to make a plug for down climbing.  If you start to feel like you are too far out over your gear and the terrain above feels too tough, you can always down climb a bit and either get back below your next piece or make your fall more manageable.  

It's a useful skill to have, if you ever start getting into trad.  

Here is a dude looking for hard trad routes that sounds like he wants to whip some. NOT ADVISABLE in the Black Hills.

The pink tricam fits in EVERY placement where NOTHING else works ;-)

No but really, if it's a bolted route and you need extra pro, I would imagine that smaller pieces will be your go-to. Off-set micro nuts, pink and black tricams, micro-cams. "Find a friend with a rack" will be your most cost-effective approach.

BJB wrote: You've gotten a broad range of advice on the type of gear to use, so I think you're covered there, but I also want to make a plug for down climbing.  If you start to feel like you are too far out over your gear and the terrain above feels too tough, you can always down climb a bit and either get back below your next piece or make your fall more manageable.  

It's a useful skill to have, if you ever start getting into trad.  

very good point.

Andrew Ferris wrote: Hello all! I am curious as to what is other people's opinions on what gear to use protecting run-outs on sport climbing routes? I am usually willing to be pretty bold, but some routes I get quite nervous on being far away from the nearest bolt. I don't neccersarily have a ton of interest into getting into dedicated trad climbing quite yet in my career, as I enjoy simple single pitch sport climbing, top-roping, and bouldering mainly. My thoughts are:
- Cams are your sorta do all - need all, yes but are pretty spendy (college budget).
- Nuts / hexes are a bit cheaper but are probably more limited in application? Maybe? Once again not much of a trad climber.
- Manning up a bit is free, but also being safe is smarter? I'd rather spend a tad bit of cash for the ease of mind.

If yer not much of a trad climber or interested in it and enjoy simple sport climbs then stay off climbs that require trad gear. The way to do that is RTFM. That said such routes are not runout sport climbs, they are routes that require both trad gear and draw for clipping bolts.