Using Threads as Anchors?

Jeremy S wrote: similar info to what curt posted above, in a handy infographic. Note the strength rating here only applies to the sling and not the rock or carabiner. Credit GOAS Italia for this image.

That graphic looks like they just 2x or 4x or 1/2x the first number and isn't based on actual testing.  50% on an object that large seems LOW.  

Here's what looks like a BW Titan Sling testing to 5870lbs (It's rated to 6000).  Material also is a factor I suspect.

mattm wrote:

That graphic looks like they just 2x or 4x or 1/2x the first number and isn't based on actual testing.  50% on an object that large seems LOW.  

Here's what looks like a BW Titan Sling testing to 5870lbs (It's rated to 6000).  Material also is a factor I suspect.

Oh no doubt, experimental values will always differ from theoretical values. I just wanted to share that graphic as a good rule of thumb guide for different sling configurations, I think it helps build intuition towards what makes a sling stronger/weaker and by (roughly) what factor. Thanks for the vid share, it's always fun watching stuff break! :)

Julian H wrote:

Technically one piece is not an anchor. At least two pieces is an anchor. 

Anyway it is a waste of time to place gear that will not hold. Anywhere on the climb 

2/10

Mark E Dixon wrote:

If you aren't equalizing at least two independent firetrucks, you're an accident waiting to happen

Living on the edge

Mark E Dixon wrote:

If you aren't equalizing at least two independent firetrucks, you're an accident waiting to happen

If you’re hitching to 2 fire trucks, the accident has already happened. 

 Now, you’re just the clusterfuck waiting to happen

RE: strength of girth hitch and else for recreational climbing / rope access

Source: Singing Rock

Buff Johnson wrote:

One tree, one boulder, one firetruck.

One bourbon, one scotch...

Darren Mabe wrote:

One bourbon, one scotch...