Which torque wrench should I get?

Climberdude wrote: Andy, I respectfully understand where your coming from.  I just don’t think of a torque wrench being part of a climbers kit.  I wonder what these folks contemplating bringing a torque wrench would do when they had to nail a route or even a single piton.  Would they smash the shit out of it till it bent over?  The best skill a climber can possess is common sense.  Without that they are a safety hazard to themselves and others, especially if they are bolting.

I've put in a lot of climbing "bolts" (wedge anchor style mostly) over the years (lets say well over 600 climbing bolts in the last 10 years although I've climbed for almost 45 years now- I have no idea how many bolts I've put in over my life as I try and avoid putting them in at all). I worked in concrete construction as well when I was a pup and have a real good feel for what I should be torquing either a 3/8" or a 1/2" to with a regular wrench. Why would you care if I (or anyone else for that matter) chose to torque with a torque wrench to ensure a perfect torque?  I've drove a lot of pins as well and generally left them in any FA I did that required them and no one complained, regardless, one doesn't equate to the other and pins are not being discussed here. Your supposition that carrying a torque wrench is a substitute for common sense rings false to me. 

BTW, for anyone still reading who doesn't want to add the weight of a torque wrench to the already heavy kit they are hauling to drill bolts, looking and buying a 9/16 and 3/4 offset ratcheting wrench is the bomb (linemen use this size). Will work for both 3/8" and 1/2" wedge anchor nuts. Tie off a piece of Paracord in the middle with a place for your hand to go so you don't drop it and can keep it clipped off and you're good to go. Ratcheted like this craftsman below,  offset so you don't scrape your knuckles) and 9/16-3/4 size. Don't see an exact picture so I copied this off the net, I can take a shot of mine if anyone wants.

If you are not satisfied with something, then send it back. And in general, if you are not exceptionally versed in these things, try to read the article that helped me a lot with the choice of tools for fixing my scope https://ballachy.com/best-torque-wrench-for-mounting-rifle-scopes/ . There are many different sets. If you are a beginner, you may not understand it. Try to see the information about this on Google. And best of all, go to a special store and let them help you. There are still people who know, they will show you everything in detail and tell you. I hope you'll listen to me, good luck to you.

Hezzil Facwrote:

don't but a cheap scope, please

Thank you for joining Mountain Project six hours ago. We would have missed this.

Bill Lawrywrote: “The Powers Powerbolt (five-piece) in 3/8-inch diameter, carbon-steel, is rated with a maximum torque of 25 foot-pounds, so most of these are likely being placed close to the recommendation. 

The recommended torque on a 1/2-inch carbon-steel bolt is 45 foot-pounds, an impossibility with a short wrench and hard to do even with a socket wrench and a breaker bar on the handle. Therefore we may presume most 1/2-inch bolts are under tightened”

Source: https://rockandice.com/climbing-gear-tips/the-nuts-and-bolts-of-nuts-and-bolts/

That said, I see that some SS bolts of similar diameters have much lower torque specifications opening the possibility of over-torquing.

I’ve put in only a half dozen 3/8 SS bolts and have been using a torque wrench.

with a 6" wrench I can pretty easily put 90lbs of force on a bolt to get 45lb/f. A little body weight goes a long way.

this 3/8 torque adapter was within 2lb/f of my snap on TQ wrench. Real easy to pack in and out. I don't use a TQ wrench though for installing climbing hardware.

I torque to the German standard of Güdentite