5 10 moccasym

Quality comments aside...they're still in stock at Backcountry: https://www.backcountry.com/five-ten-moccasym-climbing-shoe and REI: rei.com/product/850829/five…

I go through a pair of moccs every 4-6 months, but I also use them 2-3 times a week in the gym and around 25-40 pitches in yosemite every weekend.

that guy named seb wrote:

they're a great slab shoe but i wouldn't want to be using them in finger cracks my experience with trying to use other no edge shoes on these has been that the toe is just way too bulky.

They don't have the "knuckle" toe box of the other sportivas, but the rubber top of the toe is quite thick and still makes them somewhat bulky. Dragos seems to wiggle in a little easier. 

Jon Rhoderick wrote: Anyone know best way to size cobras for cracks (.75/.5 size)?

Don't think they would do well in the .75 size, I can still get past the joint of my big toe in really thin hands and they're way too knuckled/blunt for that IMO. 

Nick Drake wrote:

They don't have the "knuckle" toe box of the other sportivas, but the rubber top of the toe is quite thick and still makes them somewhat bulky. Dragos seems to wiggle in a little easier. 

Interesting, if that's the case i may look at getting my self some and shaving down the top layer till is nice and fine this would make them a pretty amazing crack/slab shoe, I need to get me some good all around bouldering shoes first. I have heard skwarmas are pretty sweet in fingers, does anybody have any opinions on how they do in hands?

just got some pinks anazai pretty stoked. see how they perform this weekend, wonder if I'll be able to return my moccs as i don't think ill be putting up with them

that guy named seb wrote:

Interesting, if that's the case i may look at getting my self some and shaving down the top layer till is nice and fine this would make them a pretty amazing crack/slab shoe, I need to get me some good all around bouldering shoes first. I have heard skwarmas are pretty sweet in fingers, does anybody have any opinions on how they do in hands?

In big 1 to 2s the skwama is fine, but in tight hands the toe box is too knuckled up to get as much rubber in. Some people say that they can jam, but that's only happening if you size them loose and it defeats the whole purpose of the shoe. If you're hunting for XS grip and jamming a variety of sizes what about the womens Kataki? 

Nick Drake wrote:

In big 1 to 2s the skwama is fine, but in tight hands the toe box is too knuckled up to get as much rubber in. Some people say that they can jam, but that's only happening if you size them loose and it defeats the whole purpose of the shoe. If you're hunting for XS grip and jamming a variety of sizes what about the womens Kataki? 

My thought process was more a true jack of all trades, does well in cracks of all sizes, soft and sticky enough for slabs, edges well, aggressive enough for bouldering, good heel and toe hooking. It might not do any of these things amazingly but it does them all pretty well, I love my TC pro's for cracks from offwidth to fingers and they're great at edging considering how comfy they are but they are useless as a bouldering shoe and are a bit clunky on friction and micro edging slabs making it harder to trust your feet. Currently building a shoe quiver and I have tons of shoes that are really good at one specific thing but nothing as a great do everything shoe.

that guy named seb wrote:

My thought process was more a true jack of all trades, does well in cracks of all sizes, soft and sticky enough for slabs, edges well, aggressive enough for bouldering, good heel and toe hooking. It might not do any of these things amazingly but it does them all pretty well, I love my TC pro's for cracks from offwidth to fingers and they're great at edging considering how comfy they are but they are useless as a bouldering shoe and are a bit clunky on friction and micro edging slabs making it harder to trust your feet. Currently building a shoe quiver and I have tons of shoes that are really good at one specific thing but nothing as a great do everything shoe.

That says kataki to me, I have a few friends who have been happy with them as a jack of all trades. Personally I hate edge for bouldering and smearing so I'd opt for the womens model. 

I've gone through two pairs of the skwamas and when brand new thought they we very good at everything, save thin hands due to toe box knuckle. With the unlined leather toe the front just stretched out in time and they really stopped feeling precise. They always stay good for "smedging" on higher friction granite, but thin glassy edges weren't their forte. 

Nick Drake wrote:

That says kataki to me, I have a few friends who have been happy with them as a jack of all trades. Personally I hate edge for bouldering and smearing so I'd opt for the womens model.

The kataki lacks any toe rubber though making it useless for high end bouldering, I don't see where a kataki would really fit, this will be easier to just list my quiver

TC pro's- good at everything on a rope from slight overhang to slab (could be more sensitive)
miura xx- Super tight monster edging and heel hooking machines can wear them for 10 minutes max
miura vs- great at edging, sensitve, good heel, precise works on steep stuff, can't toe hook to save it's life
speedster- worn to shit, mega comfy warm up shoe, can still toe hook okish
(coming shortly) solutions- good at heel/toe hooking, can't crack climb for shit though, good at edging, too clunky for slabs
So, nothing I have is good at everything, i hoped for skwarma's but alas i may be shit out of luck.

Maybe try some looser solutions, friend of mine has crack climbed in them up to 12+, surely you could toe/heel hook, edge and smear alright. Otherwise if toehooking is not a deal breaker then katana or Katacki

if the anasazi pro fits you I feel like that's a good choice. It might be a bit aggressive though

Alan Zhan wrote: if the anasazi pro fits you I feel like that's a good choice. It might be a bit aggressive though

I will never understand how anybodies foot fits a anasazi shoe, i reckon it's just what people are used to but i despise the anasazi last and pretty much all five ten shoes. The only five ten shoe that doesn't have a completely unusable heel to me is the dragon and even then it's not a good heel.

that guy named seb wrote:

I will never understand how anybodies foot fits a anasazi shoe, i reckon it's just what people are used to but i despise the anasazi last and pretty much all five ten shoes. The only five ten shoe that doesn't have a completely unusable heel to me is the dragon and even then it's not a good heel.

What do you use?

The pinks are already getting damages on the laces. ill be burning through laces in no time. other than that awesome. I might end up with black diamonds aspect. i was pretty impressed trying them on in store. I'm more trad than boulder and primarily climb in Joshua tree. I could honestly care less about a heel hook. or toe hook as I climb up to 11a at the moment 

that guy named seb wrote:

I will never understand how anybodies foot fits a anasazi shoe, i reckon it's just what people are used to but i despise the anasazi last and pretty much all five ten shoes. The only five ten shoe that doesn't have a completely unusable heel to me is the dragon and even then it's not a good heel.

Different strokes (and shoes) for different foot and heel shapes seb. If I remember correctly, you have made this myopic comment before. Five ten heels are the best imho, Anasazi heels were the only ones that worked for me until the Huber brothers designed the even bigger and better Quantum heels (you would despise 'em even more). TC Pros and Katana's heels are the worst! I will never understand how anybodies foot fits a TC Pro...Wait, a zillion dudes love the fit of TC Pros and Katanas?!? WTF? Maybe, I reckon, it is just what those ignorant effers are used to... . Some day we will realize that all feet are the same and and the guvment will just make one best shoe that fit us all perfectly, I have a dream...

Doug Hutchinson wrote:

Different strokes (and shoes) for different foot and heel shapes seb. If I remember correctly, you have made this myopic comment before. Five ten heels are the best imho, Anasazi heels were the only ones that worked for me until the Huber brothers designed the even bigger and better Quantum heels (you would despise 'em even more). 

My opinion comes from seeing people wear anasazi shoes and they say something like "the heel fits great" and then i look at their heel and it's a mess full of dead air. folding over it's self I've never seen anybody who has a heel that actually fits the anasazi heel, i personally think this just comes down to what fit means to you, a well fitting heel to me has 0 dead air space doesn't fold over it's self creating creases and stays on, by my standard of a well fitting heel I have yet to see anyone fit the anasazi heel.

Also not saying all feet are the same, there are plenty of differently designed heels that fit different foot shapes well, i just don't think the anasazi heel really fits any ones.

The Anasazi heel fits me better than any other shoe that I’ve tried. The toe box fits perfectly too. 

I feel your torment, Evan. Moccasyms was my most loved shoe for everything. I heard and saw a decrease in quality, so I got a couple of Scarpa Origins. They are about $100, or, in other words, school Moccs used to be before this $120 fuckery generally. Scarpa quality simply likes my boots of a similar brand. Obviously, the elastic Raise wa Tanin ga Ii  isn't as thin as Moccs, so they are not as delicate. Be that as it may, they will keep going longer then again. They are additionally wide, comfortable, and fit my foot sole area. 5.10 Rouges didn't accommodate my foot rear area extremely well, so they were quite dreadful and would slip off at unfavorable occasions except if I stuck tape in there. I believe I'm finished with 5.10 now.

Mocs were $100 in the early 2000s. According the CPI Inflation Calculator, $100 in October 2002 has the same purchase power as $142 now. So in reality, Moccasyms have come down in price over the years. The pair I bought last week for $120 seems to be just fine with regards to quality.