Unparallel shoes / Five Ten

I am returning the Sirius Blue. There is too much volume on the arch area of the shoe and they have to be cinched super tight. I'd go with the LV or half size down if you don't have a monster foot.

Update: Got the Sirius lace .5 sizes smaller. Pulled on and the pull tab ripped the actual fabric/liner on the shoe. ~1/2in tear. The 9.5 fit like a size 10 Dragon.

Circled back with a few local climbers that have been longtime 5.10 devotees and tried Up. Other than the Moccs all want to switch back. They seem to all agree that the Regulus does not climb like a Hiangle and none of them particularly like the heel. Most also prefer the Teams for which there is no direct analogue and haven't got on with the Sirius. They're not bad shoes, but not direct replacements it seems.

I’m planning to order the Moccs, as the pair of Moccasyms I purchased in October developed a hole in a non-stress area. I sent a message to UP to ask about sizing. 

Mike D wrote: I’m planning to order the Moccs, as the pair of Moccasyms I purchased in October developed a hole in a non-stress area. I sent a message to UP to ask about sizing. 

Ha, if this post doesn't illustrate the confusion that UP's unoriginal shoe names will cause, I am not sure what will.

I called them, they told me to get same size in moccs. So far I am really liking them and the fit, it's possible i might have been able to go another 1/2 size down but not %100 sure as there's no where to try them on. ALSO, they still dye your feet, although yellow instead of red. 

David N wrote:ALSO, they still dye your feet, although yellow instead of red. 

Yup, can't get that vibrant of a color in suede then sweat on it and not have color migration.

At least your toes don't look like Flaming Hot Cheetos anymore? 

I got a pair of the Hiangle-esque shoes and can't believe how much better they fit than 5.10's.  I don't know if it's my wide toe-box and short heel or what, but they seriously feel like a stiff glove.  Two of my partners tried them on and had almost exactly the same thoughts.  

The lace-up anasazi-esque shoes fit really well as well, though so far I think that they are closer to a verde than to pinks or whites.

And size note:  
I wear anasazi shoes in my street shoe size, I bought the regulus 1/2 size up and the lace ups my street shoe size.  I could have probably downsized the laced shoes, but they're fine. 

Up moccs feel a half size smaller than 5.10mocc,  up doesnt stretch as much either 

Climbed in a pair of the "regulus" and there was just too much volume in the upper and the opening/closure system.

The toe box is essentially the same as the hiangle, while the heel is deeper and the rubber softer. The regulus are comfier than the hiangle out of the box but much sloppier in the upper, as mentioned.. 

Side note, I also tried on, but did not climb in, a pair of the "upmoccs" as well. I sized them the same as my red moccs (1 1/2 sizes down). I noticed the same problem! The opening/closure area was too big and sloppy. Everything else about the shoe seemed of high quality. Unless they fix that quality control issue, I would not recommend to anyone. Hope that helps! 

Daniel Roberts wrote: Up moccs feel a half size smaller than 5.10mocc,  up doesnt stretch as much either 

What would you size them at?

Rob D. wrote: I got a pair of the Hiangle-esque shoes and can't believe how much better they fit than 5.10's.  I don't know if it's my wide toe-box and short heel or what, but they seriously feel like a stiff glove.  Two of my partners tried them on and had almost exactly the same thoughts.  

The lace-up anasazi-esque shoes fit really well as well, though so far I think that they are closer to a verde than to pinks or whites.

Rob, I've been interested in the lace ups, I was wondering if you could elaborate more on the them...  How do you find the heel tension ?  I'm trying to find a unicorn shoe with a good edging moderately assymetric toebox, that is not tight across the Achilles.  For reference, I have a set of Anasazi VCS and they are way too tight in the wrong places on my heel, but I love the toes of the shoe.

Given how many QC issues I/friends have experienced with these shoes so far I would steer clear.

gumbie gene wrote:

What would you size them at?

a size 12.5 up mocc felt a half size smaller than a 12.5 5.10 mocc

Karl Walters wrote: Given how many QC issues I/friends have experienced with these shoes so far I would steer clear.

How so?

Sirius LV- I had one pair literally rip at the liner/foot opening/strap area when putting them on. Regulus strap stitching tearing is common so far as is the toe rubber coming up slightly at the "cuts". A few guys were on bro-deal from Five Ten and tried to switch due to the wave of bad Hiangles recently. One person had the strap loop on the Regulus start to tear and rip. One Up Mocc heel cup delaminating. Pull strap tears on Regulus.

how does one get a 5.10 Bro-deal?

Redyns wrote: how does one get a 5.10 Bro-deal?

It used to be super easy, they didn't even need a paystub of proof and you could make something up, but I think since the Adidas takeover its more legit now.

Redyns wrote: how does one get a 5.10 Bro-deal?

First rule of pro bro deal you don't talk about the deal

It used to be if you worked anywhere within 1,000 mi of a gym and had instagram you could get a bro deal if you tagged them once. Almost everyone I knew had Hiangles and/or Teams just because of this.

It didn't end with the Adidas takeover right away, but last Spring Five Ten started having major shortages in shoes, specifically Hiangles. They first cut out the low level bro deal, but kept the gym/routesetter deal, but then cut that too. According to a former sponsored pro, at one point (they dropped all but their big names Kyra Condie recently was quietly dropped) they couldn't even give Jimmy Webb shoes and some pros were buying them where they could and getting reimbursed.  I've also seen Webb wearing Tenayas on IG lately so maybe he finally switched?