G20 front bail and rebel pro


Original Post
Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 438

Looking for a set of monos for dry tooling and cold ice. Figured I would go for light to match the rebels. I like the idea behind the vertical center rail and the heel fit better on the G20 over darts for my boot. As a bonus I also can order Grivel at cost (petzl is full retail). The toe bail on the G20 seems a bit wide/round for the narrow rebel toe welt though. I couldn't get them to shift in a store, but that's not the real thing.

Any experience for a rebel G20 combo? Or phantoms, I think their toe bail is also pretty narrow.

Anyone switch out toe bails on G20s for either the narrow BD or petzl bails? Seems like the frame is a bit wide and it might be a bear.

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 615

Can confirm (through the experience of a friend) that Petzl bails do not fit the G20.

No toe bail is going to fit perfectly - if you can't move it by hand, then you are good to go.

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 87

I use G14s (probably the same front bail?) on Phantom Guides. It "looks" wide, but the fit seems to be fine on the boot. No problems yet, just got them this season and have done about 10-15 pitches of ice, mixed, and drytooling in them.

One of my climbing partners has the G20s and they seem pretty sweet!

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 438
Nick Sweeney wrote:Can confirm (through the experience of a friend) that Petzl bails do not fit the G20. No toe bail is going to fit perfectly - if you can't move it by hand, then you are good to go.
Dang! Was it the hole size in the pon or the width of the frame just being too wide? I have no problem filing out the hole to accept the different crimped wire end.

I didn't find that to be true, not moving by hand that is. Running my vasaks with the stock connecting bar it all seemed good on the bench. In the real world they ended up shifting on me. I had to switch to the asym connecting bar. Also went to the narrow BD toe bail (stingers?) which has a nice narrow point. That really locked the boot in securely.
Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 438
Kyle Tarry wrote:I use G14s (probably the same front bail?) on Phantom Guides. It "looks" wide, but the fit seems to be fine on the boot. No problems yet, just got them this season and have done about 10-15 pitches of ice, mixed, and drytooling in them. One of my climbing partners has the G20s and they seem pretty sweet!
I'm pretty sure that the G14 still uses the "curly cue" grivel toe bail, do those end up hitting the side of your boot? That might actually be an option to swap in.

The G20 has a normal bail, that just goes down into the front of the pon.

Here's a pic I found of a G20 on phantoms, the gap is pretty similar on my rebels:
http://www.nicktruax.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/DSC00255.jpg
Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 87

You're right, it does have the spiral wire. Sorry! Should have done a bit of research before responding.

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 615
Nick Drake wrote: Dang! Was it the hole size in the pon or the width of the frame just being too wide?
The frame was too wide if I remember correctly. MY G14s and G20s definitely do not fit my boots perfectly, but I can't move them by hand and they do not shift while climbing. I would give it a try with the stock G20s before you rush into making modifications - you might find they are solid and save yourself some effort! On Nick Truax's blog, he notes that the bail is wide and has some slop, but it makes no difference while climbing.
grubbers · · Mass. · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

I was able to get a pretty solid fit between the G20 and my Rebels. Only used them for one dry tooling session, but everything felt pretty good for the couple of routes that I did.

Can't say the same about the G20 and my Phantom Techs though. Even with the heel adjustment at it's tightest I would still be able to shift the crampon by hand, but I wasn't able to shorten the crampon at all. I use Petzl crampons for those boots as I can get a much more secure fit with that combo. I like how Petzl's linking bar allows for a much finer adjustment of crampon length.

t.farrell · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0
Nick Drake wrote: Anyone switch out toe bails on G20s for either the narrow BD or petzl bails? Seems like the frame is a bit wide and it might be a bear.
In addition to the frame being too wide, the BD bails are thicker than the Grivel ones making for a fun afternoon with some files. It is possible to get the narrow bails onto the frame, but you're going to need some tools and a lot of determination...
Matt Zia · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 66

I've been running G14s on my Phantoms the past couple seasons and I'm going to either switch toe bails or go to a pair of G20s. I've found the curly-cue bail on the G14s finicky, bulky, and while it fits many boots adequately, it doesn't really fit many super well. Last week my crampon popped off my boot while I was climbing which made for an exciting top-out. Even before having a crampon pop off I was considering switching because the G14s have a fair bit of slop, even when tightened down hard. The G20s have a smaller profile toe bail which I think fits a narrow toe box better.

That said, the G14 toe bail is one of the few I've found that fits well over a duckbill tele boot. Maybe that's just more reason to switch, from both...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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