G20 front bail and rebel pro

Looking for a set of monos for dry tooling and cold ice. Figured I would go for light to match the rebels. I like the idea behind the vertical center rail and the heel fit better on the G20 over darts for my boot. As a bonus I also can order Grivel at cost (petzl is full retail). The toe bail on the G20 seems a bit wide/round for the narrow rebel toe welt though. I couldn't get them to shift in a store, but that's not the real thing.

Any experience for a rebel G20 combo? Or phantoms, I think their toe bail is also pretty narrow.

Anyone switch out toe bails on G20s for either the narrow BD or petzl bails? Seems like the frame is a bit wide and it might be a bear.

Can confirm (through the experience of a friend) that Petzl bails do not fit the G20.

No toe bail is going to fit perfectly - if you can't move it by hand, then you are good to go.

I use G14s (probably the same front bail?) on Phantom Guides. It "looks" wide, but the fit seems to be fine on the boot. No problems yet, just got them this season and have done about 10-15 pitches of ice, mixed, and drytooling in them.

One of my climbing partners has the G20s and they seem pretty sweet!

Nick Sweeney wrote:Can confirm (through the experience of a friend) that Petzl bails do not fit the G20. No toe bail is going to fit perfectly - if you can't move it by hand, then you are good to go.

Dang! Was it the hole size in the pon or the width of the frame just being too wide? I have no problem filing out the hole to accept the different crimped wire end.

I didn't find that to be true, not moving by hand that is. Running my vasaks with the stock connecting bar it all seemed good on the bench. In the real world they ended up shifting on me. I had to switch to the asym connecting bar. Also went to the narrow BD toe bail (stingers?) which has a nice narrow point. That really locked the boot in securely.

Kyle Tarry wrote:I use G14s (probably the same front bail?) on Phantom Guides. It "looks" wide, but the fit seems to be fine on the boot. No problems yet, just got them this season and have done about 10-15 pitches of ice, mixed, and drytooling in them. One of my climbing partners has the G20s and they seem pretty sweet!

I'm pretty sure that the G14 still uses the "curly cue" grivel toe bail, do those end up hitting the side of your boot? That might actually be an option to swap in.

The G20 has a normal bail, that just goes down into the front of the pon.

Here's a pic I found of a G20 on phantoms, the gap is pretty similar on my rebels:
nicktruax.com/wp-content/up…

You're right, it does have the spiral wire. Sorry! Should have done a bit of research before responding.

Nick Drake wrote: Dang! Was it the hole size in the pon or the width of the frame just being too wide?

The frame was too wide if I remember correctly. MY G14s and G20s definitely do not fit my boots perfectly, but I can't move them by hand and they do not shift while climbing. I would give it a try with the stock G20s before you rush into making modifications - you might find they are solid and save yourself some effort! On Nick Truax's blog, he notes that the bail is wide and has some slop, but it makes no difference while climbing.

I was able to get a pretty solid fit between the G20 and my Rebels. Only used them for one dry tooling session, but everything felt pretty good for the couple of routes that I did.

Can't say the same about the G20 and my Phantom Techs though. Even with the heel adjustment at it's tightest I would still be able to shift the crampon by hand, but I wasn't able to shorten the crampon at all. I use Petzl crampons for those boots as I can get a much more secure fit with that combo. I like how Petzl's linking bar allows for a much finer adjustment of crampon length.