For via ferrata, your anchor point moves along a cable that is attached to the wall at various increments. If you fall while climbing vertically, you and your anchor point will both fall to the last place the cable connected to the wall. You will then continue to fall to the length of your lanyard. If you have a 1m lanyard, and fall from 3m above the last attachment point, you fall 4m onto a 1m lanyard.
For via ferrata, your anchor point moves along a cable that is attached to the wall at various increments. If you fall while climbing vertically, you and your anchor point will both fall to the last place the cable connected to the wall. You will then continue to fall to the length of your lanyard. If you have a 1m lanyard, and fall from 3m above the last attachment point, you fall 4m onto a 1m lanyard.
Ok, I get it. Thanks
I looked at the Petzl article I posted earlier and it points out that rope length is probably more important in determining the severity of a fall (shorter rope= less stretch and, therefore, much more force). Obviously an issue with a short lanyard...
From Wikipedia:
Fall factors above two[edit]
"In falls occurring on a via ferrata, fall factors can be much higher. This is possible because the length of rope between harness and carabiner is short and fixed, while the distance the climber can fall depends on the gaps between anchor points of the safety cable."
Mind you that systems like the KISA are not easy to reset, nor do they comply with the latest standard (EN 958:2017 ) for VF lanyards (now there are requirements to limit forces to a wide range of user weight: 40 - 120 kg, but also means a longer allowed brake distance).
If you are unsure about somebody finishing the VF, bring a rope and belay the second. If you want to have a spare just in case, bring a spare one.
You need to test your rope with the Kisa to know how that particular rope functions with the device before deciding how long to make it. A thinner rope will slide farther through before stopping.
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Feb 21, 2018
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Daniel Joder wrote:
But, I have seen folks over here using homemade lanyards that include K-class carabiners, maybe 10mm dynamic rope, various knots, and a plate, through which the rope winds, specifically designed to dissipate force. It seems pretty good to me. To you experienced ferrata folks out there, is this acceptable if done correctly?
Absolutely not. Real via ferrata lanyards are typically rated to hold up to a factor 5 fall or so. This is important because the lanyard is only about 3' long and it can be 15'+ between anchors (thus factor 5 fall). If you took a factor 5 fall on a piece of dynamic rope you'd be dead, if not form the shock likely from the rope outright failing.
There is no appropriate substitution for a UIAA certified via ferrata lanyard. If you want to climb a via ferrata route, you get a via ferrata lanyard. The forces in a via ferrata fall can be very high and making BS up and ghetto rigging some system together is a fantastic way to fast forward to an early dirt nap.