What's in your shoe quiver?!

All doubles I have are different sizes. One for socks and one without. I have a couple extra pairs of Barracudas, I picked up cheap when they stopped making them, that I use for top roping, gym climbing and teaching my self how to resole.

TC pros for: hand cracks, OW (until my technique improves), edge-a-thons

Moccs for: finger cracks, slab, etc

5.10 Mocs - for most outdoor stuff
Mythos - sized .5 too big for wearing with thin socks for moderate winter climbing
La Sportiva somethings (katana slipper, don't think they make them anymore) - indoors, need a resole
Some Evolv lace ups from S&C - gym and friend shoes.
Cushe Slippers - approach and walk down shoes, crazy light and packable. Just wish they had loops on them so I wouldn't need to add them.

Eyeing up some TC Pros for my next shoe. Love the Mocs though, definitely my favorite so far. I rarely climb indoors, so those shoes just sit at the bottom of my bin mostly.

I have
Five ten:
3x mocs - only 1 pair is useable.
2x Blancos
1x Verdes
1x Pinks
1x Galileo
1x Stoneland slippers
1x VCS
4x Quantums :))))
2x approach shoes
1x hiking shoe

1x Evolv Defy

1x Testarosa

You guys (no girls answered yet) have a lot of shoes for guys due to climbing, but I'm a girl. Girl + Climbing = infinite shoes.
One of the reasons I got carried away is because (non-climbing) manufacturers often do not make shoes in my size. They don't make approach shoes or auto crampon boots in my size, and some companies don't (eg Tenyana). So when I see a shoe in my size, I buy.... and sometimes attractive shoes not in my size. But climbing shoes are made in small sizes for superstar kids so now I have many, no idea where I hide so many pairs:

1.La Sportiva- Mythos 34 - Do not replace size - too big - resoled once
2.La Sportiva- Mythos 33
3.La Sportiva- Katana 33 Blue--(2) - bit small (gave a 3rd pair away)- can stretch out to be perfect, or stay too tight
4.La Sportiva- Katana 33.5 Blue- (3) -(can be best Katana size or bit loose?)
5.La Sportiva- Katana 33.5 - Pink- Runs bigger than blue, delaminating.
6.La Sportiva- Muira VS 33- Ice
7.La Sportiva- Muira VS 33.5- Ice (5) - shoulda got that last cheap one but got pricier crappier blue instead
8.La Sportiva- Muira VS 34- Ice- (3)
9.La Sportiva- Muira VS 34- Blue - .. weird hot spot?
10.La Sportiva- Muira Lace - 33.5
11.La Sportiva- Tradmaster - 34 - fits well but blah, but no longer sold, for walkoffs
12.La Sportiva- TC Pro 33.5 - undeserved
13.La Sportiva- TC Pro 34 - (3)
14.La Sportiva- TC Pro 34.5 (3)
15.Scarpa - Rockette 34.5 - Too tight, size 35 is my size for this
16.Scarpa - Rockette 35
17.Scarpa - Vapor V - 35 (2) cut off back band, after 2-3 months finally broke in and fits perfect
18.Scarpa - Force X- 35 - fits pretty good
19.Scarpa - Thunder 34.5
20.Scarpa - Techno - 34.5 - first one from Wilderness Exchange Great, second one tight like sz 34 so returned
21.Scarpa - Techno - 35 - Heelcup too big, but should soften. Start breaking these in at the gym
22.Scarpa - Veloce 34.5 Like Katana. Discontinued.
23.Five Ten - Anasazi velcro - 5 purple
24.Five Ten - Anasazi - 5 teal
25.Five Ten - Anasazi - 5.5 teal
26.Five Ten - Fox - 5 (2) -Too soft - do not replace
27.Five Ten - Diamond - 1st shoes ever - also, First women's specific climbing shoe
28.Five Ten - Blackwing - size 5.5 (2) - paper toe, too sensitive, do not replace
29. Five Ten - Galileo - size 3.5 - Seems good
30.Five Ten - Quantum - 1 size 3.5 (size 5 women) and 1 size 4.0 mens
31.Five Ten - Anasazi Verde Lace- (5) size 3.5 - Love
32.Five Ten - Anasazi Pink Lace- size 3.5
33.Five Ten - Hiangle Pink- size 5.5
34.Boreal Ace - Used Boreal Ace - 2.5 UK Feels gross to have been in another's feet. Board lasted, stiff
35.Boreal - Ballet Gold 2 UK - probably too narrow for me
36.Boreal - Ballet Gold 2.5 UK Kinda narrow - high top protection
37.Evolv- Astroman 4 mens
38.Evolv- Addict- 4 mens - slightly too long, but narrow. Should stretch out.
39.Evolv - Docon 3.5 Mens----- Rental shoes... Thick sole, beater gym
40. Acopa - Chameleon - 4 (1), 4.5 M (2), 4.5/wonky (1) being used (where is it?)=(4) sz 4.5 at work
41. Acopa - Enzo 4M, 4.5M, 5M = (3)- sz 4 at work
42.Acopa - Merlin 4M, 4.5M, 5M =(3) sz 4.5 at work, sz 5 men's too big (sell)
43.Acopa - Aurora Lace 4N, 4.5N =(2)
44.Acopa - B3 4M, 4.5M =(2)
45.Acopa - Aztec 4M, 4.5M =(2)
46.Acopa - Sidewinder - 4M =(1)
47.Acopa - JB 6M - too big, give to my Acopa-loving friend
48.Acopa - Legend 5M
49.Acopa - Spectre 4M
50.Acopa - Scrambler 4M - Approach shoe

Grand total: 78 climbing shoes x 2 resoles each x 6 months climbing per sole - # resoles already done = 30 years of climbing without resoles / 107 years of climbing including resoles.
Here's to another 107 years of climbing.

Wow. You guys are making me feel better about my problem, lol. Old thread, but what the hell!

My active rotation:
Five Ten Anasazi Pinks size 12 (46) - performance fit. All arounder, technical trad, slabs. My go-to shoe nowadays
LS TC Pros 46 - flat toes, comfort fit for all day/cracks.
LS Katana Laces 45.5 - performance fit, but on 3rd sole. Still good for performance edging, but on their way out and getting soft.
LS Solutions, 44 - super tight performance fit. For bouldering and the steeps.

Under the bed (retired and/or awaiting resole):
Evolv Shaman, old gen 13(these completely flattened and lost their downturn)
Evolv Shaman, new gen 12.5: worn to rand, needs resole but straps are fraying. Meh.
Five Ten Moccs 11: 3rd or 4th sole, tried patching with friend's weird swimsuit rubber gunk but I think these are finally retired
Five Ten HiAngles size 12: toe possibly blown. Might try for a resole.

:( That's sad...how could you live near the Gunks and only mess around on silly little Boulders? Lol

To anyone who favored the FIVE TEN VERDE's or GALILEO's, what are your go-to shoes now?

I ask because my current quiver is soon to be out of resoles and it's the shoes that will need replacing soon...

Current: Five Ten Verde 8.5 w/ Onyx
Five Ten Verde 9.0 w/ Onyx
and Five Ten Verde 9.0 w/ C4
also Five Ten Quantum (purple ones) size 10 that are somehow too small?

Suggestions? Anasazi VCS, Pinks? I really don't want to spend $190 on the new blancos, suggestions of other brands for a good all around shoe like the verdes?

Street size: US 9.5

La Sportiva Mythos: Euro 40. Love these as all day comfort shoes, and HTFU shoes for bouldering. Two pairs seem just right.

La Sportiva Solutions: Euro 41 and 41.5. For bouldering. One is aggressive fit and the other is comfort fit. They have become my intermediate to hard climbing shoes of choice, now that I have Genius' for projecting.

La Sportiva TC Pro: Euro 41. My go to shoes for projecting long pitch climbs. Does everything. Edging, smearing, cracks, etc. Comfortable fit.

La Sportiva Genius: Euro 41. My current go to shoes for all bouldering and sport climbing projects. Aggressive fit. Think I could size up for the second pair.

Tenaya Masai: US 8.5. Way too tight for my feet. And weirdly shaped, and might fit narrow feet better. Lovely shoes, but these have to go, as they are too tight for my feet.

Five Ten, Rogue - First gym shoe
Five Ten, Mocasym - Second gym shoe, bought too tight, only bouldering now
La Sportiva, TC Pros (about 87 pairs) - Outdoor shoe
La Sportiva, Tarantulace - Gym Shoe

oh and...

Koflach, Degre - first mountain boot
La Sportiva, Nepal Cube - most often used ice boot

Five ten quantum way better than I thought
For way more than I thought. Some really good red points for me in this shoe. Fits incredibly.

Five ten Blanco newest version
even better than I hoped for. The stiffy edge master.

Five ten hI angle
very good steep shoe. Fairly sensitive and supportive.

Five ten pink
duh awesome

Scarpa instinct lace
Amazing face and steep shoe that excels on technical faces. Red pointed all my hardest routes in these on granite and limestone. Currently being resoled. Babied them

Scarpa-instinct vs
blown out but I loved them. Not worth resoling

Scarpa instinct slipper
also blown out and amazing currently getting resoled.

La sport tc pros 2 pairs
both on their 2nd or 3rd resole. Good enough I don't need a new pair

Lasport muira VS
2nd resole toes are mush just gym shoes now.

La sport speedster
the unkillable round steep gym super star.

La sport solution
3rd resole gym only, kinda suck.

La sport viper, the best rattly finger sized slipper ever.

Is this too many? I climb in all of them?

Ted Pinson wrote:Wow. You guys are making me feel better about my problem, lol.

I don't see the problem.

Rob Warden...Space Lizard wrote:Is this too many? I climb in all of them?

Nope. You don't have to justify it.

Wilson On The Drums wrote:To anyone who favored the FIVE TEN VERDE's or GALILEO's, what are your go-to shoes now? Suggestions? Anasazi VCS, Pinks? I really don't want to spend $190 on the new blancos, suggestions of other brands for a good all around shoe like the verdes?

I don't know, like you suggested maybe the pinks or VCS? Wait till Blancos go on sale? Katana lace?

DGraham wrote:for the people posting like ' I have3 of this shoe, 2 of this shoe, 3 of this shoe etc. etc.' How are you using all those shoes? it's not like you bring 2 pairs of 1 style of shoe to a crag (?)

hoarding. I store shoes in 4 different locations in case of fire, flood or theft - home, car in case I forget to put shoes in my bag (happens), work, friend's house. I buy multiples of favorite models for when they are discontinued (or discontinued in my size). Already happened to several of my favorite models, and to Wilson on the Drums above. My hope is to live long enough that all of these shoes are beat up after multiple resoles.

That's all she's got. :-)

Rob Warden...Space Lizard wrote:Five ten Blanco newest version even better than I hoped for. The stiffy edge master.

Ah, damnit...why'd you have to go and do that when I'm already tempted to buy them? As a Pink owner, how do they compare? Are they different enough to justify owning both?

So Ted I will try and post pictures and do a real review at some point but suffice it to say.

Midsole, yeah they stand out of Tiny holds and front point much better than the pinks. Zero rubber creep

Heel rand. More tension more pressure. I bought the same size as my newish pinks radical differance in rand pressure. I like it. Ymmv

Heel cup. Slight changes. No holes that allow for Streach. Designed to push your toes forward. Good fit for me no bagging.

The Tongue is better. Foam and mesh breaths well so there is less vcs/pink stink from a un ventilated synthetic shoe.

Upper. The material is nice supple no seems.

So performance break down

Edging, fantastic

Subset front pointing fantastic

Smearing, good enough

Cracks, thin Crack would be fine. Sized too tight for rattly finger or tight hands. Could climb hand cracks but would be a waste of the edgeing prowess.

Heel hooking, great to superb.

Sensitivity, not sensitive, may get better I have 5 pitches in them. Not expecting them to get more so.

I will go out and run up Texas tower a few more times and try them out on Texas tower direct and velvet tongue and then tell you if I think they were worth it. I think those routes and jet stream, rainbow country are the best test of this shoe at Red rock.

I will say I came real close on an ancient futures which felt hard for 12a. which has a baffling thin/blank crux on slippery varnish. My feet were not the problem anything I could get the rubber on, stuck with aplomb.

I have onsighted other pitches like that route in the pinks and had to work much harder to keep the rubber from creeping off even when new.

Are the hey worth it?

Dunno, if you have the rock in your area that you think they are made for, or are taking a trip to some...sure.

They are well worth it for me with the style of routes I like to do.

I also was blown also way by how good the new quantum is when I went out sport dorking. Will make an incredible hard trad shoe as well.

they will also resole nice, so up front cost is high, long term return is good. I make good money, so who cares. Just money right?

Haha true, I'd just feel weird owning two of the same shoe but in different colors. The Pinks started off fairly stiff but softened into a perfect slab/all rounder, so I'm looking for new edging shoes. My home crag is Devil's Lake (which gets discussed here way more than it should, lol), so: minimal friction, micro-edging starts around 5.7 or so. So far my favorite shoe for this was Katana Laces, but they're on their 3rd sole and kinda on their way out. So I'm trying to decide between the Whites, Miura VS, or another pair of Katanas. If they front-point as well as a Miura, then I can see why people say they're the best, as the one thing Miuras/Katanas seem to suck at is outside edging (due to the downturn), which the Anasazi shape is perfect for.