Ice boot question

Matt Glue wrote: Man, that settles it. On top of all the other threads and posts I've been reading in which most people size the Nepals (and other LS) basically even with their street shoe size. I think the guys at my gear shop are really overemphasizing leaving room for toes. Or maybe I'm confusing just barely feeling my sock compress against my toe with actually feeling pain, which is what one should really look for. My long sad story is that I was convinced to get a pair of 47s (!), dealt with them for 1.5 seasons, and finally sold them to someone. I've actually already bought some 46s, but wearing them around the house I can tell they are longer than they need to be. Will be exchanging next time I pass through that town. Thanks all.

The length of the boot is only one component of the fit. Size it so you don't hit your toe against the end when you weight your foot heavily. If you need to size up to keep the toes from hitting the end, the boot does not fit you well, because the boot should keep your foot from moving forward. By sizing up, you'll only make the slop worse, and you'll still hit your toes, or at leas slide around getting blisters. Try taking up a little volume with a thicker insole before sizing up in this case. Better yet, get a competent bootfitter to help you. Sounds like the guys in your shop aren't it.

"If you need to size up to keep the toes from hitting the end, the boot does not fit you well, because the boot should keep your foot from moving forward. By sizing up, you'll only make the slop worse, and you'll still hit your toes"

agreed, good advice!

Yeah, what I had to do with the 47s was first put in a green Superfoot. Then I had to lace around the ankle real real tight to keep my foot in place. Usually I'd have to re-lace a time or two to get the right balance of ankle retention and circulation. It probably only worked because my feet have really good circulation.

Copperhead, what do you mean by hitting my toe when I weight my foot heavily? You mean weighting my foot on a downward slope?

Matt Glue wrote: Or maybe I'm confusing just barely feeling my sock compress against my toe with actually feeling pain, which is what one should really look for.

Some more data for what it is worth on fitting boots for ice climbing. If your toes come anywhere near touching at home or while trying the boots on they are too short. The pounding your feet will take climbing water fall ice (easily bearable short term) compared to alpine ice like in my avatar (quickly unbearable and likely to cause at least short term injury) to the abuse your feet will take with a heavy pack going steeply down hill (fully weighted) on a flat trail will hobble you long term.

I measure a 12 with a AA heel and a 45 Nepal Evo is an awesome fit for water fall ice. But I can't wear them where I have to hike very far. I can both climb and walk in a 45.5 Batura. My favorite fit but not neccassarily my favorite boot is a 45 Scarpa Phantom Ultra. But the Phantom guide has to be a 45.5 or a 45 with the toes punched out.

If you have hard to fit feet (as we obviously do) it also pays to be attentive on cutting your toe naisl and keeping you feet in tip top shape. If I really pay attention all the time I can almost get by with a Nepal 45 every where...but I have to be religious on my own footcare. With a little less attention the 45 Ultra works fine. No way the Guide will unless I punch the boot out.

But I don't generally use after market insoles because I like a "thin" sole. But good insoles and the weight/thickness of your sock combo can really enhance or degrade your boot fit as will how you learn to lace them. How the laces hold on the boot will make a difference as well.

Dane wrote: If you toes come anywhere near touching at home or while trying the boots on they are too short.

Nothing I've tried on is close to touching when just standing or walking around the house. I only feel the lightest compression of my sock when kicking in the 45.5s. If that. I'll have to try them back on to verify.

I figure that if most of the people I've read posts by who are 11.5 or 12 are wearing 45 and 45.5, then I must be good in a 45.5. Unless my really narrow forefoot is playing into all this and letting my foot slide forward more than normal when I kick.