Steve Sutton

I'm very sorry to pass on the news that Steve Sutton died on June 1st. He was a major figure in the development of Canadian climbing. From Deb Burton: "Steve Sutton passed away today after a long tough battle with dementia."Steve was a major figure in climbing at Squamish in the late 1960s and early 1970s, as one of the 'hard core', often climbing with Hugh Burton. His climbs included Uncle Ben's (first ascent), Zodiac Wall (second ascent), and Black Dike (third ascent). And many others. On Yosemite's El Capitan, they included the Nose (when he and Hugh were 17), Magic Mushroom (1972 - first ascent), the Shield (1973 - the second or third ascent?), and Mescalito (1973 - first ascent). And on North Howser Tower in the Bugaboos, Warrior (1973) and Mescalito (1974). An early alpine style ascent of Denali's Cassin Ridge (1977). Some of the early big ice climbs in the Rockies. And many other stout climbs.

Charlie Porter, Hugh Burton and Steve Sutton at the base of el cap

Steve relaxes on the bismark

Very sorry to hear about Steve's passing. 

In addition to his many FA's in Canada and Yosemite, he was active in developing many new routes in Joshua Tree, including classics such as Firewater Chimney, The Last Stand, The Tomahawk, Powered By Old English, and Eagle Talons. 

I had heard of his passing last week from a mutual friend.  Steve was always super nice to me and entertaining to be around.  His love of climbing led him to many places and he had many outstanding adventures to show for it.

It is my understanding that the last few years were difficult for him as he had dementia that profoundly affected his ability to care for himself.  

R.I.P. Steve 

Only met him once or twice, but I wanted to mention that Steve was the one who came up with the idea (and the name) of the American Safe Climbing Association in 1995. He got a bunch of big-name climbers to sign onto a letter appealing for support, but ended up not drumming up much momentum. In 1998, Armando Menocal connected Chris McNamara to Steve, who gave Chris the green light to use the ASCA name, and Chris (with Armando's help especially with the nonprofit application) founded the ASCA as an organization (official 501c3 status in early 1999). I have a copy of his 1995 letter somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.

Rest in Peace

Found Steve's 1995 letter:

The following is the text of a letter being circulated to solicit contributions for the replacement of bad anchors:

Dear Climbers and Climbing-Related Businesspersons:

Welcome to the AMERICAN SAFE CLIMBING ASSOCIATION.

Many existing climbing routes in the U.S. (established as far back as the 1950s) utilize bolts and anchors that are obsolete, worn, rusted, broken, loosely embedded, or poorly located. Some of these "accidents waiting to happen" need immediate attention. ASCA, a non-profit association of responsible climbers, is dedicated to making the sport of rock climbing safer by promoting a high standard of climbing anchor technology, and to restoring existing climbing routes that are deemed unsafe. Our work helps prevent climbing injuries and helps save lives. Our efforts ultimately benefit not only climbers, but also climbing-related businesses such as manufacturers, publishers, shop owners, climbing schools, rescue teams, etc. We believe any serious climbing injury ultimately hurts the entire climbers' community...socially, politically, and economically.

We are presently in the process of identifying, prioritizing, and "working" unsafe climbing routes throughout the United States. If you have knowledge of any existing unsafe anchor conditions, please take a few minutes of your time to report them to us now. In addition, we are seeking working relationships with individuals and groups who are already involved in climbing-route improvements and restorations. We invite you to share our greater vision of ASCA -- being a national safe climbing network... a central hub of information regarding which routes need to be or have been restored.

In the process of maintaining "climbers' rights to safety" (i.e., dealing with the issue of bolting on public lands) ASCA is striving to work with government agencies having authority in the regions in which we serve. Our approach is to emphasize their institutional and ethical responsibility in regard to citizens' safety, and to emphasize our responsibility in regard to the environment. Indeed, it is conceivable ASCA may (in the future) reach consensus on recommending certain pristine natural regions that should be entirely off limits to bolting.

Our concern for the environment is reflected in our recommended standard procedure for replacing unsafe bolts. This entails filling the old bolt holes (if they are no longer viable) with an epoxy matrix, using pulverized indigenous rock, resulting in a durable "plug" that most closely matches the surrounding rock. If the hole is still viable and in a usable location, the hole is saved,thus lowering further impact. Our commitment to quality anchor placements always includes environmental factors...including aesthetics. Old piton anchors and unsightly slings, whatever anchor system they may be tied through, as well as being of questionable strength and in constantneed of testing and replacement, are aesthetically displeasing. A final replacement of these with two half-inch bolts or three three-eighths bolts with hangers, or something comparable, and three-eighths chain (all of high-grade stainless steel of course) should be the accepted "anchor view" that will satisfy all parties concerned. Our philosophy is: If you're going to do it, do it with class.

We have chosen to focus on the Yosemite area at present, not only because it continues to be one of the most popular and heavily used climbing areas in the world, but also because of its high public profile in respect to contemporary legal climbing issues (such as retro-bolting on public lands).

Our past restoration projects have included; the rappels from Dolt Tower (the Nose), which were hideous; station anchors on the Shield; Tribal Rite; and the route Space (all on El Capitan). We've also added a bomber rappel route down from the end of the East Ledges for El Cap climbers doing the East Ledges descent. A few classic free climbs have also been worked, both in the Valley and Tuolumne meadows. 

Our current projects include the "Zodiac Wall" and "Tangerine Trip" routes on El Capitan. If you have ever climbed (or plan on climbing ) any of these routes, then surely you will appreciate how important it is to have state-of-the-art anchors at the end of your leads.

Up to this point, we have been using our own money to finance our route improvement work, but our personal resources are limited. Restoring a route to a safe condition usually involves expensive state-of-the-art tools and materials, a vast array of climbing equipment, a high level of technical knowedge, and hard physical work. 

We are now soliciting financial contributions to help us with this urgent and crucial work. We suggest a practical way to go about contributing to ASCA's work is to "earmark" a donation for the restoration of a given route (possibly of your own choice). Then simply call ASCA and talk with us about the estimated cost of the project...and contribute accordingly.

We feel confident that you, as a responsible member of the climbing community, will join with us in helping to correct the unsafe conditions prevalent on so many climbing routes throughout the United States. We ask you to share with us this opportunity to return something of meaning and significance to the sport that gives us so much.

Yours in safe and enjoyable climbing

Steve Sutton

Endorsed by Alan Bartlett, Jim Bridwell, Scott Cosgrove, Peter Croft, Kevin Daniels, Bob Gaines, Steve Gerbeding, TM Herbert, Lynn Hill, Clark Jacobs, Ron Kauk, John Long, "Too Strong" Dave Mayville, John Middendorf, Dan Osman, Will Oxx, Kevin Powell, Brooke Sandal, Kurt Smith, Randy Vogel, Boreal, Fixe, Metolius, Petzl, and Sterling Ropes, just to name a few.

For more info please e-mail me or contact Steve at the address above.

Do I remember correctly that on one of the El Cap ascents (maybe Mescalito FA), the only food they brought was beer and popcorn, no water?

"What r ya, light?" 

Damm good climber.

Rest in Peace.

It’s worth mentioning that Steve was Lynn Hill’s belayer when she did her historic one day free ascent of the nose. The videos from that day include some clips of Steve jugging up the rope, following her leads. I have never seen anyone ascend a rope with that kind of speed and agility. He was literally running in aiders with ascenders.

There were a couple of years when Steve was in Josh and Idyllwild quite a bit, and we must have climbed together a dozen or so times. I think the last time I saw him was on top of Lost Horse Wall. Chelsea Griffie and I had topped out on Bird on a wire, and were wandering through some large boulders on the descent. We came across Steve and Clark Jacobs, another great loss to our community, hanging out in the shade sharing a jug of wine. They invited us to share in their bounty, which of course we did. I saw a lot more of Clark over the years, but I don’t think I ever saw Steve again. Rest in peace old friends.

I had the honor to climb with Steve Sutton for years. When I did the ethics of clean climbing were always present but unspoken. That's how I learned, Greg epperson and Steve Sutton.

That's the crew from then