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trad/sport climb designation

Original Post
Jordan Perlmutter · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 289

I've noticed that some routes on this site are designated as both trad and sport (useful to indicate mostly bolted climbs that might have a trad placement or two). I recently submitted a new route like this but on the route editing page, there are radio buttons for the type of climb, so you have to select either trad or sport. Is there a feature I'm missing that allows for toggling both options?

Camdon Kay · · Idaho · Joined Mar 2021 · Points: 4,650

I personally dislike when both designations are used for one route. I see a lot of trad climbs with 'sport' toggled because they have bolts, which isn't accurate. 

Jon Nelson · · Redmond, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 9,178

One used to be able to mark both trad and sport, but no longer. 

And if one of the routes with both is ever updated, for whatever reason, it automatically resets to be just trad. 

Big Red · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,254

Imo designating both is confusing for newer climbers using filters to find routes they can safely climb. 

My hotter and unsolicited take is that if your route has 20% or less protected by gear, just fully bolt the thing.

Camdon Kay · · Idaho · Joined Mar 2021 · Points: 4,650

Mixed protection routes are sweet! What if it’s 80% face and 20% splitter crack? 

Israel R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 87

Still just bolt the crack if it's only 20%. Exceptions can be made if the route is really long and that 20% ends up being like 30ft or if the crag is primarily a trad crag. Otherwise it climbs like an under bolted sport route. Also having to bring a couple random pieces to climb what is a essentially a sport climb is just annoying. 

As a bonus these kinds of climbs let new trad leaders practice whipping on gear with a bolt as back up.

Jordan Perlmutter · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 289

The route I submitted is a linkup between two sport climbs that requires a single trad placement. Adding a bolt would probably confuse people climbing the adjacent routes and would create a lot of rope drag if clipped, and there's a very obvious and solid cam placement right where you would put the bolt anyway. That said, doing the climb without the cam would be very run out and could cause a pretty dangerous pendulum fall, so it's a non-negotiable piece. I guess I'll just leave it marked as a trad route for simplicity.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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