Benchmarks for the grade? NC and other areas?

Nick, I think all of the listed climbs are classics as well as benchmarks and picking any single one from each grade won’t disappoint!

I think maybe we need to make a new list that is routes that are overlooked and not considered classics, but excellent and more people should do them. My contributions are Full Contact 5.11+ at Ship Rock, Hedonic treadmill 5.12 at Table Rock, South Carolina, and almost anything at Lower Hawksbill.

In return, what are the Chattanooga area benchmarks or must dos?

Nick I would go by areas instead of a route list there's classics in the grades everywhere if you look. Then it boils down to what season you visit

Zoo View for 5.7+

5.4 - good heavens 

5.5 - the great arch

5.6 - wailing wall

5.7 - sunmoon

5.8 - Groover

5.8+ - t&b

5.9 - Double Dihedral 

5.10a - Fathom

5.10B - Squeezins

5.10c - invisible airwaves 

5. 10D - going for baroque 

5.11 - the OR

5.11b - southern boys don’t wear plaid

5.11c - southern crescent 

Not climbing volume in grades past this so ending here

Ice is very over looked in NC probably because it only exists for a few days at a time but is such an incredible experience, and nice change of pace from all rock and something to get excited about while everyone else is miserable 

WI1/2 - sams branch gully(phenomenal but rare)

WI2 - retribution 

Wi3 - sams knob

WI4 - starshine(being a roadside bum at 215 is a close second here because luxury)

WI5 - rhapsody in blue

Throw the broach in there somewhere for 11+, castaway for 12-, manifest gets my vote for 12b, ice cream direct is the gold standard for 12+ in the state imo, more people have sent the roof of menagerie at 13a than they have ride the lighting, which tells me ride should make that list for 13a benchmark. Don’t forget BeeTree at rumbling bald - a banger  

Yesssss bee tree the best pitch in the state!!

A few of my favorite NC routes at each grade...                                                                       Favorite Boulders

(5.4) The Prow, 400ft Rope                                                                                                        

(5.5) Good Heavens, The Great Arch                                                                                        (V1) Short Crack, The Ladder

(5.6) The Daddy, Little Corner                                                                                                    (V2) Crescent Crack, Two Piece 

(5.7) Maginot Line, Fat Dog                                                                                                        (V3) Carolina Bamboo, Center 45

(5.8) Paradise Alley, The Nose                                                                                                    (V4) Dime Crack, Lucifer, Driver 

(5.9) Seconds, Rattlesnake Crack, Dopey Duck                                                                        (V5) Kung Fu Grip, Rotator Cuff 

(5.10-) Built to Tilt, Tits and Beer                                                                                                (V6) Captain Heel Hook, Big Sabbath 

(5.10) Creatures of Waste, DC Comics, Travesty                                                                       (V7) Xiaolin Wonder Palm, Black Slab Left Sit 

(5.10+) Wide Earp, Code 3, John Meyers Memorial Dihedral                                                    (V8) Brackish Water, Blue Ice Stand 

(5.11-) The Womb, Hyperbola Direct, Shredded Wheat

(5.11) Southern Boys, Skin Toy, Revival

(5.11+) Gumfighter, Cro-Magnon Acid Test

(5.12-) Castaway, Invisible Direct, Unwritten Law

Matthew Bakerwrote:

Throw the broach in there somewhere for 11+, castaway for 12-, manifest gets my vote for 12b, ice cream direct is the gold standard for 12+ in the state imo, more people have sent the roof of menagerie at 13a than they have ride the lighting, which tells me ride should make that list for 13a benchmark. Don’t forget BeeTree at rumbling bald - a banger  

Is the Broach still 11+ after that block tore off?? Anyone here climb it since?

Tanner Hwrote:

Nick, I think all of the listed climbs are classics as well as benchmarks and picking any single one from each grade won’t disappoint!

I think maybe we need to make a new list that is routes that are overlooked and not considered classics, but excellent and more people should do them. My contributions are Full Contact 5.11+ at Ship Rock, Hedonic treadmill 5.12 at Table Rock, South Carolina, and almost anything at Lower Hawksbill.

In return, what are the Chattanooga area benchmarks or must dos?

I like the overlooked routes idea, one route sticks out for me that is absolutely phenomenal at the grade and doesn't get any attention - Buried Treasure in Zen Canyon

not sure how Dinkus Dog hasn't been mentioned as the benchmark western NC/upstate SC 5.10a/b/- slab climb. if you can link both pitches on lead, you have a good shot at all the other 5.10 slab climbs in western NC/upstate SC (of which there are obviously many) and besides being a "benchmark", its just reallllyyyyy good

Andrew Giniatwrote:

Is the Broach still 11+ after that block tore off?? Anyone here climb it since?

Isaac broke it because it wasn’t hard enough. I think he said it felt about the same. Just one less price of pro?

Ti ckwrote:

5.11 - the OR

lol the one move wonder trick bolt ladder… It’s hard for me to agree the OR or even Traditions would be “benchmark” because of how party trick the cruxes are. Now Arm and Hammer for benchmark 12a is more like it. 

Killer Rabbit of Caerbannog for 5.9. Every move is 5.9.

Full Shred for 12a

Ti ckwrote:

WI4 - starshine

In my opinion, Starshine would be a benchmark WI3.  Even in early season it doesn’t feel close to WI4.  Regardless, its my favorite ice climb of any line in the country that I’ve climbed.