The unofficial LRS Sulu Go thread

https://youtu.be/_62nV_NeNQY?si=0mcaYMbbk2JZYUdN

Little update video explaining the new system with a short discussion after a play. 

The route was only 15m or so, how the system deals with longer routes will still be something of a mystery.

 Something that was encouraging is it was fucking freezing at about 4°C, so while I couldn't feel my fingers nothing about the system was fiddly enough that my lack of dexterity interfered. Everything about the system fed well enough that I didn't have to interfere with it through any of the hard climbing. 

that guy named sebwrote:

https://youtu.be/_62nV_NeNQY?si=0mcaYMbbk2JZYUdN

Little update video explaining the new system with a short discussion after a play. 

The route was only 15m or so, how the system deals with longer routes will still be something of a mystery.

 Something that was encouraging is it was fucking freezing at about 4°C, so while I couldn't feel my fingers nothing about the system was fiddly enough that my lack of dexterity interfered. Everything about the system fed well enough that I didn't have to interfere with it through any of the hard climbing. 

Cool setup. kind of a lot of gear up front, but am I right you have the advantage of no cache loop? How does the resistance from the feed feel compared to just trailing a rope from your tie in belayed by a partner?

mountainhickwrote:

Cool setup. kind of a lot of gear up front, but am I right you have the advantage of no cache loop? How does the resistance from the feed feel compared to just trailing a rope from your tie in belayed by a partner?

The gear is pretty low profile, the silicone strap keeps things very tidy and I'd rather it high on my chest than cluttering a gear loop or the front of my waist, especially if I'm aid climbing.

At the moment there is no cache loop, hopefully this won't change though resistance will change as the pitch gets longer, so we'll see. 

I would say on the original setup detailed in the video it felt like I had a bunch of drag with the drag focusing on the revo rather than the the knot (as seen in regular climbing). Originally, the rope I was playing at home with was a Beal joker and it was a fair bit smoother, so much like all LRS setups, rope choice is going to be key. 

I just measured the diameter of that rope with a pair of calipers, 10.7mm, I think I might know why it didn't feed well. 

If I were to go after the self feeding LRS, a smaller pulley on the chest, maybe with a breakaways fuse, for redirecting into the sulu, then a fuse for back up on the hip (or elsewhere on the waist) cause it has a straight through rope path to go to the pulley. An ASAP could work too as the back up.

Might feed well enough with the revo on the hip, but I just have a feeling it wouldn't. Same for the freebell. Doubtful it would offer the feed needed for this kind of setup.

Mr Rogerswrote:

If I were to go after the self feeding LRS, a smaller pulley on the chest, maybe with a breakaways fuse, for redirecting into the sulu, then a fuse for back up on the hip (or elsewhere on the waist) cause it has a straight through rope path to go to the pulley. An ASAP could work too as the back up.

The smaller pulley sucks, and it has mounting issues, a big advantage of the revo is it's actually big enough to be held in place so the rope angle is constant and reliable. I have tried and failed to fix a smaller pulley in place. 

I really am shocked the fuse and ASAP are being widely considered for backups, they would likely severely damage the sheath of your rope and drop tests have shown this to be the case. 11-12mm industrial static ropes have significantly thicker sheaths and shock absorbers put notably less force on the device and rope than seen in a dynamic fall. 

Might feed well enough with the revo on the hip, but I just have a feeling it wouldn't. Same for the freebell. Doubtful it would offer the feed needed for this kind of setup.

Not quite sure what you mean here. 

that guy named sebwrote:

The smaller pulley sucks, and it has mounting issues, a big advantage of the revo is it's actually big enough to be held in place so the rope angle is constant and reliable. I have tried and failed to fix a smaller pulley in place. 

I really am shocked the fuse and ASAP are being widely considered for backups, they would likely severely damage the sheath of your rope and drop tests have shown this to be the case. 11-12mm industrial static ropes have significantly thicker sheaths and shock absorbers put notably less force on the device and rope than seen in a dynamic fall. 

Not quite sure what you mean here. 

The idea is that the fuse or asap won’t see those kinds of forces even in an usd fall. What seems to happen is that because of physics when the fuse activates it tensions your rope through the pulley, reorienting you right side up (or supine at least), at which point your primary device engages.  That’s what happened to me with a fuse+pulley+vergo setup, anyway.

Mr. Rogers has made the big time y'all!

Also a fan of the Sulu, great video

I love it for the up and down. This is why I bought it and why I use it. 

Flame on y'all!
Also happy to answer any questions.

What device are you using for your primary while LRS these days?  Your system appears well thought out and refined.  Your Freebell is rad, 75% of the weight sounds appealing.  

Kevin Strickerwrote:

What device are you using for your primary while LRS these days?  Your system appears well thought out and refined.  Your Freebell is rad, 75% of the weight sounds appealing.  

I use a GG+ with the "death mod".
I do still use the sulu. It just requires a few more doodads to function the way I like. To be fair to the sulu, with the extra accouterment, it is as good, if not better experience, minus the extra kit needed which brings it down a small notch. I have been going back and forth more between them recently and will say it might be toss up which I prefer while actually leading currently.

I watched the episode last night, great work dude! It was really cool to see your setup and how dialed you have it. You did a great job explaining all the nuances and the "why" behind each tweak you've made. Good stuff

Cosmic Hotdogwrote:

I watched the episode last night, great work dude! It was really cool to see your setup and how dialed you have it. You did a great job explaining all the nuances and the "why" behind each tweak you've made. Good stuff

Thanks man!

Mr Rogerswrote:

Flame on y'all!
Also happy to answer any questions.

Thank you for sharing your experience, very useful information, got me close to ordering a Sulu for TRS and maybe touch on LRS. 

What is the pros and cons -for you- of your Sulu + Freebell set-up for LRS versus the GG+? What alternative to the Freebell would you use? 

Would you change for a Silent Partner / Roc Solo?

Mike, do you use your modded Freebell when backing up the GG+ as well? If not, what’s your preferred backup for that configuration?

Regarding your death modded unit—have you ever had any falls where the rope ended up on the wrong side of the cam? I’ve got a death modded GG+, and feel reasonably confident that such a fall would be a really freak edge case, but it still doesn’t give me the warm fuzzies the way my un-modded GG+ does. 

LouSakwrote:

Thank you for sharing your experience, very useful information, got me close to ordering a Sulu for TRS and maybe touch on LRS. 

What is the pros and cons -for you- of your Sulu + Freebell set-up for LRS versus the GG+? What alternative to the Freebell would you use? 

The gg+ I need less kit to function the way I like. But like I stated above, It a toss up which I prefer when actually leading.
For back up if not using the FB....I like a continuous cache, so for me before the FB, was a USHABA hand ascender, which is very unique in the way it operates. I made some posts in this thread about it.
But for commonly available items, cached cloves, or pre tied knots. I have also like an ASAP with a prussic or micro for back feed. I think the fuse with the fjhammer from Yann is a great option if the Freebell didn't exist.

Would you change for a Silent Partner / Roc Solo?

I don't know. I have used a SP, but don't own one, so have not put tons of mileage on one to be able to give honest feedback I imagine.
A big advantage to me is the ability to lower without changing systems over the SP though.

Slim Pickenswrote:

Mike, do you use your modded Freebell when backing up the GG+ as well? If not, what’s your preferred backup for that configuration?

indeed I do use it to back up the GG+. It's consistent as my go to back up. I may do cached cloves if its a hard route I'm trying to redpoint LRS, as its just better for that IMO.

Regarding your death modded unit—have you ever had any falls where the rope ended up on the wrong side of the cam? I’ve got a death modded GG+, and feel reasonably confident that such a fall would be a really freak edge case, but it still doesn’t give me the warm fuzzies the way my un-modded GG+ does. 

I have not had it end up on the side of the cam/lever, but the concern I think is warranted. It's really thin metal if it goes under that lip, and a cut seems possible I  imagine. But my risk assessment, in think the odds are low enough to not worry. I do however have a non modded one for super skinny ropes, as when your using like 8.8>  the death mod I think is not super necessary.
I am figuring out a solution for the possible rope path scenario with the dearth mod. I'll share it when I get it done.

Mr Rogerswrote:

The gg+ I need less kit to function the way I like. But like I stated above, It a toss up which I prefer when actually leading.
For back up if not using the FB....I like a continuous cache, so for me before the FB, was a USHABA hand ascender, which is very unique in the way it operates. I made some posts in this thread about it.
But for commonly available items, cached cloves, or pre tied knots. I have also like an ASAP with a prussic or micro for back feed. I think the fuse with the fjhammer from Yann is a great option if the Freebell didn't exist.

I don't know. I have used a SP, but don't own one, so have not put tons of mileage on one to be able to give honest feedback I imagine.
A big advantage to me is the ability to lower without changing systems over the SP though.

Do you have any experience with the Ural-Alp basic ascender? The ushaba isn't in stock at the moment. Any reason it wouldn't work similarly in your opinion?

Sparkington TheThirdwrote:

Do you have any experience with the Ural-Alp basic ascender? The ushaba isn't in stock at the moment. Any reason it wouldn't work similarly in your opinion?

Unfortunately the USHBA hand ascender is the only rocker arm device they make that works in both directions. So it acts as cache loop and back up.