Tettegouche - routes without static line?

Hey all,

Headed up to the North Shore with the family and might try to sneak in a climb or two this week. Are there any moderate routes (I'd love to belay them on 5.7-5.8 and I could sneak in harder routes) that don't require lots of static line to set up the TR anchor? I don't have static line to work with, but I do have a cordalette, slings, and 70m rope. Also fine leading up to 5.9 (gear) if that makes it easier. Unfamiliar with the area (from TN!) so any guidance would be great. 

Thanks so much, very excited to check out these beautiful walls

-Sam :)

I think Bluebells and Phantom Crack don’t require a ton of material to build anchors and are both 5.9. Danger High Voltage maybe, but it was in the raptor closure zone last time I was up there and I’ll bet that’s still going. If you’re top roping you should be able to build the anchor with your 70m and then climb on the remaining length. Most routes are less than half a rope length. Also, Silver Creek Tunnel has very accessible sport climbing.

thanks! I'll check them out. any other 5.6-5.8 with anchors close to the edge? happy to build gear anchors, just don't have static line. thank you

Sam Adams wrote:

 with the family 

Re: Palisade Head proper ... Are the kiddos comfortable with the top-access nature of the area? Specifically, being lowered in over the edge, then being belayed from above? A slingshot belay is possible but might require a second adult to manage the final topout

Not sure how old everyone is, but it's worth noting that it isn't a traditional walk-up cragging experience.

Praise the Many Seraphim is possibly doable with several cordelettes/240cm slings, but I can’t say I’d recommend it for kids or anyone new to the sport since the climber and belayer can’t see each other for half the climb. Shovel Point has many more climbs in the range you’re looking for, but unfortunately the anchor bolts and trees are far from the edge.