Hanger+perma fell off?

Salamanizer Skiwrote:

 No it wont. 

What is that.. a wrench for ants!

This brush is a little bulky but gets the job done and ensures you always have a wrench. I used a heat gun to make a slight modification to put a bend in which makes using it a lot easier. 

Salamanizer Skiwrote:

 No it wont. 

What’s the max size on these? Do they span up to 17mm for the rise in use of the CT 10mm wedge and 12mm sleeve bolts? Wont stop me from getting it regardless, but curious if they handle it

The beauty of that wrench is that unless you're Will Bosi, it'd be pretty hard to overtorque a bolt with it.  Going all out on it would be close to 20 ft-lbs.

Tal Mwrote:

What’s the max size on these? Do they span up to 17mm for the rise in use of the CT 10mm wedge and 12mm sleeve bolts? Wont stop me from getting it regardless, but curious if they handle it

I don’t know, that’s just an example of something that could work. I got the picture off google lol.
I like the brush idea. Doesn’t matter what design people come up with. I just think it should be standard practice to carry some sort of wrench to tighten a bolt. Convenience rules. 

Tractor supply has some 4" ones in stock around here 

Salamanizer Skiwrote:

The amount of times I’ve seen or heard of someone having the only option of tightening a nut with their fingers and then complaining about it online is staggering. Probably get one or two comments in California every week. And that’s just the ones who say something here. I think it should be standard practice to carry a small adjustable wrench with you if you clip a lot of bolts. My mountain bike comes with a small fold out tool kit attached to the frame under the bottle holder. Why don’t harnesses come with a flat adjustable wrench sewn into a pocket on the harness? 

When I was actually sport climbing a fair bit, I always carried a wrench in my pack.  It got used a surprising amount.  I even went as far as stashing a mini tightening kit that included a wrench along with some nuts and hangers at a couple of crags.  

I've been carrying a "super thin" 9\16 x 1\2 open ended wrench. Cheap, light, and you can actually torque to spec.

+1 for a gluein. If you drill a new hole, I can give you a couple options for breaking off this bolt and patching which is the fastest way to replace the bolt. 

Anna Brownwrote:

+1 for a gluein. If you drill a new hole, I can give you a couple options for breaking off this bolt and patching which is the fastest way to replace the bolt. 

Fastest is almost always the wrong choice for the rock.  You are going to be disappointed when you see how patches react to time.  

Kevin Strickerwrote:

Fastest is almost always the wrong choice for the rock.  You are going to be disappointed when you see how patches react to time.  

I’ve got some patches I did almost 20 years ago with epoxy putty that still look as good as the day I did them. Better even because the lichen has started to creep over the edges. 

Salamanizer Skiwrote:

I don’t know, that’s just an example of something that could work. I got the picture off google lol.
I like the brush idea. Doesn’t matter what design people come up with. I just think it should be standard practice to carry some sort of wrench to tighten a bolt. Convenience rules. 

the problem with the brush is that it's not very usable, which is very similar to some of the nut tools floating around.  generally, the hole/size right at the end works really well - but the other holes don't because there is no/very little room to rotate the tool (confined by the hanger).  at that point the other sizes are relegated to lightning holes...

an open ended wrench is significantly better in that regard, but many are poor quality and tend to slip, especially the small ones. 

i've been experimenting with a universal wrench.  seems to work well, but i haven't tried it on larger bolts (may also run into clearance problems).  it is a bit of a beast, definitely longer and heavier than the small open ended wrench shown above. 

The brush is 9/16” on the end with the modification it works well. 95% of the bolts here are 9/16” heads (either 1/2” 5 piece or 3/8” studs) you’re not going to get it back to torque spec so it is more of a temporary solution. A friend custom made a bunch of 9/16” aluminum cnc’ed wrenches with a 10 degree offset, they were very lightweight and still provided a decent amount of torque, such that you could leave it on your harness all the time. Ultimately the best wrench is the one you have on you, but I agree open ended wrenches are undesirable in general. 

Here's another option, a really short (steel) 9/16" wrench (don't remember why it's black, I think it was the only one I could find). Nice thing is that it is super compact so it doesn't get tangled or anything, and even a mega strong climber wouldn't be able to over-torque a bolt. A bit heavy (72g just wrench - that Helium draw weighs 72g too), but it's more that it feels dense than it's actually that heavy. And of course it's no use on 3/8" 5-pieces (1/2" wrench), but as DrRockso says, 9/16" handles most bolts.

Big Redwrote:

I've been carrying a "super thin" 9\16 x 1\2 open ended wrench. Cheap, light, and you can actually torque to spec.

I also bring a 9/16 - 1/2, but with closed 12 points on either end, and it has an offest to it so you dont bust knuckles. Biner clips through either end so easy to rack.

Sometimes one needs to work with screw links as well. 

philip bonewrote:

Sometimes one needs to work with screw links as well. 

a QL can tighten a QL. Apline Savvy hasd a good demo.

Mr Rogerswrote:

a QL can tighten a QL. Apline Savvy hasd a good demo.

Cool! Learn something new every day!

Of course for what we're discussing, most won't have a spare quick link handy, but regardless that's a nice trick!