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Between Scimitar and East corner on the East wall at the Leap

Original Post
Aidan Maguire · · Placerville, CA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 861

A potential new line would go nicely up here that I don't think would be a squeeze job and would be 2 pitches and maybe all the way to the top. Roofs could up the grade but hard to know. New routing at the Leap is always a quagmire of sentiment, ethics and the concept that "everything has been climbed", but has it? Assuming it would be done on lead and gear used anywhere there is any. 

Any thoughts? Anyone aware that this has been climbed prior. 

Cheers, Aidan

Petch · · Lover's Leap, CA · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 255

Ghwoule memorial route 5.9r.
2014

Aidan Maguire · · Placerville, CA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 861

Ok

Which one of the Ghwoule’s is it in memorial of?

I’m afraid my good and old friend Jerry Klatt is t doing well.  I may be looking for a new memorial climb ☹️

Andrew Richardson · · Sacramento · Joined Jan 2021 · Points: 1,689

Might be time for a modern Leap guidebook ;)

Petch · · Lover's Leap, CA · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 255

Originally it was for Jay Rennanberg, but now it’s also for Dave Johnson and Ron Vardanega. RIP friends

Sorry to hear about Jerry, sucks 


a guide book is slowly in the works, most of the route description's have been written


Deeba Yavrom · · Sacramento · Joined May 2019 · Points: 25

On the topic of everything has been climbed there…what about that rock formation on the other side of the freeway. There is a nice vertical bit that gets good afternoon sun that looks climbable 

livinontheledge · · strawberry · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 22
Aidan Maguirewrote:

A potential new line would go nicely up here that I don't think would be a squeeze job and would be 2 pitches and maybe all the way to the top. Roofs could up the grade but hard to know. New routing at the Leap is always a quagmire of sentiment, ethics and the concept that "everything has been climbed", but has it? Assuming it would be done on lead and gear used anywhere there is any. 

Any thoughts? Anyone aware that this has been climbed prior. 

Cheers, Aidan

not to mention the upper part gets climbed all the time (and then downclimbed/bailed on) by people who can't stay on route on Scimitar and East Cracks...but I digress...

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 82
Petchwrote:

Ghwoule memorial route 5.9r.
2014

I miss Jay. He was a very early inspiration in my climbing journey, and was instrumental in my first shooting shotguns from a zip line in the desert....lol.
What a character and had that gift of gab. Rest In Power to all the fallen Ghwoule's!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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