Anchor practice

Newb here, Any thoughts on this practice anchor setup? My concerns would be the overhand knots being hard to untie if somebody whipped on the dyneema, and whether or not the double clove hitch on the bottom left nut is secure or not. It seems like it'd be good because it can be adjusted for ideal tension with The piece that's above it and if the clove hitch slips it would it further equalize with the piece that's above it, I think.

Ignore the quality of the placement of the pieces themselves, it's a kitchen not a rock.

You're making this way too complicated. Just connect all the pieces together and tie a knot. If you need to, use the V-Clove, ideally with the double strands going to your best piece.

The equalette is outdated anchor theory. The clove hitch has potential to invert and fail how you tied it; a better option if you must keep the equalette is to tie the limiting knot so that you can clip the gold nut below it, sharing the load there and with the far left piece.

Adam Flemingwrote:

You're making this way too complicated. Just connect all the pieces together and tie a knot. If you need to, use the V-Clove, ideally with the double strands going to your best piece.

The equalette is outdated anchor theory. The clove hitch has potential to invert and fail how you tied it; a better option if you must keep the equalette is to tie the limiting knot so that you can clip the gold nut below it, sharing the load there and with the far left piece.

What's wrong with equalettes?

Please explain more about this inverting clove hitch business, and also what you mean by the limiting knot below the gold nut

I’ll play.

No need for lockers on each piece of pro. Save some weight. I would use the crack in the freezer door hinge up high instead of the spot with the gold nut to keep all your pro close together. Makes everything simpler when you don’t have an anchor that’s 5 feet long. Tie that shit together and clip a locker to the master point. Boom.  

Will Gwrote:

I’ll play.

No need for lockers on each piece of pro. Save some weight. I would use the crack in the freezer door hinge up high instead of the spot with the gold nut to keep all your pro close together. Makes everything simpler when you don’t have an anchor that’s 5 feet long. Tie that shit together and clip a locker to the master point. Boom.  

Yeah the lockers were just what I grabbed first I probably wouldn't use them in real life, but yeah seems like an overhand or figure 8 Master point is recommended

Arda Onenwrote:

What's wrong with equalettes?

Please explain more about this inverting clove hitch business, and also what you mean by the limiting knot below the gold nut

You're putting a lot of faith in the right piece. If it fails, you're shock loading the two pieces on the left. There is direct relationship between equalization and extension. If you don't benefit from the equalization it's more valuable (in my opinion) to eliminate it unless the components you're using are bomber.

As for the clove, tie a clove with the rope and place it on a carabiner. See what happens when on strand is pulled upwards and one is pulled downwards. If you really want to use a knot to connect to the gold nut, do an alpine butterfly or overhand on a bight. Below is a picture describing what I mean by clipping the nut below the limiter knot.

I think you can fit a .1 under the espresso machine 🤣

I don’t care for it. Clip the three points independently and equalize.  As it is … just no. Would not be super pleased to ascend to the anchor and see that this was waiting for me.  Just some random guys 2 cents but hey you asked …

If your pieces are bomber, it's probably fine. I wouldn't be upset if my partner did this, but you don't see people using sliding x's very often with trad gear because of the risk of shock loading (even with limiter knots). Personally, I would typically just clip alpine draws to the upper two pieces then equalize all 3 with an equalette to a figure 8 or overhand on a bite masterpoint. But you could also just do an overhand masterpoint with the amount of sling you have already.