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How would you start in the Valley? Visiting in mid June and looking to get on something (TR, follow)

Original Post
Cam Deschutes · · Everywhere · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 0

Hello, I'll be a first time visitor to Yosemite here in mid June (on a cross-country road trip) and while I'm sure the hiking will be great, I'm really interested in getting on a wall or two in the 5-6 days I'll be there. I don't have much trad experience (just a few jankey mixed routes in Wisconsin and following in RRG) so I know my options are limited, but was hoping there might be a few crags/places I could go where I could either find a partner to follow or a few top ropes that people wouldn't mind me/my girlfriend hopping on. Around the Midwest this is pretty common since if you've climbed outside at all there's a high chance someone knows someone you know but what's the general attitude towards this kind of drop-in climbing at Yosemite? Any FB groups that people would recommend to find willing partners for a day? Thank you.

Cole Ing · · CA · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 176

Sounds like you are asking for the services of a guide

Andrew Richardson · · Sacramento · Joined Jan 2021 · Points: 1,684

If you post around/ask around, you'll find someone will to let you follow/TR without much issue. Lots of people prefer leading anyway. Plenty of bouldering pads laying around, easy to join a group that way.

If you want to do a true wall, yeah, hire a guide 

John R · · Flatlands · Joined May 2019 · Points: 6

Head over to Swan Slab........there are usually folks climbing and TR'ng on the short routes there. 

Eric Craig · · Santa Cruz · Joined Sep 2024 · Points: 5

Post on the partners page for Northern CA. Also look at the posts.
I have had good luck there, posting as the very experienced OG that I am, but just coming back to climbing after a 20 year absence. Twice now I have gone out with 20-30 something young fellows with little or no trad experience at all. Both have now lead trad climbs. And done a good job of it. I had a good, and safe time, and got some mileage on moderate routes that I needed, so it was a good trade for me.

I won’t be available though. One of my old partners is now available. We first climbed together in Yosemite in 1973. We are starting our summer of climbing next week.

If you are going to The Valley, you should make every effort to get a couple of classic multi pitch routes done. Nutcracker, Royal Arches, East Buttress Middle Cathedral Rock would be top of my list. You just need a good leader that you get along with.

 You could check with the Yosemite Mountaineering School too. If you are reasonably fit, climb 5.8 well at the places you mention, and can afford it, do the E Buttress MCR. The 5.10 is a bolt ladder, one 5.9 move that is easily aided, one kinda sustained 5.8 pitch. Lot’s of excellent 5.6-7 climbing on it.

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,142

From your context, when you say “getting on a wall”, you probably mean climb a one pitch something that is 5th class. In Yosemite Valley, the term “ on a wall”, means something different than that.
If I was climbing single pitch routes in the Valley, and was approached by two strangers wanting to TR the route on my gear, I’d probably say no.

But I would not be climbing in the Valley in June. It is typically very hot then.

You and your girlfriend’s best bet is to hire a guide for a half day. They will know where and when to go for you to climb something that meets your abilities. And that avoids the sun. 

Bb Cc · · California · Joined May 2020 · Points: 1,186

Are you camping in the Valley or outside the park? Have car can travel? For sure go to Tuolumne Meadows, at the very least to hike.

It is quite possible to hitch a belay...

Are you bringing a rope and anchor material? Someone may be willing to set a rope for you when they go up to clean. Are you comfortable cleaning?

Candy can be a good opener to make friends.

June in the afternoon is hot, not humid like Wisconsin.

Tuolumne Meadows is always at higher elevation, usually cooler.

How many miles do you expect to hike in a day? Overnight?

Cam Deschutes · · Everywhere · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 0
Bb Ccwrote:

Are you camping in the Valley or outside the park? Have car can travel? For sure go to Tuolumne Meadows, at the very least to hike.

Have car, can travel. Will be staying about an hour outside the park.

It is quite possible to hitch a belay...

Are you bringing a rope and anchor material? Someone may be willing to set a rope for you when they go up to clean. Are you comfortable cleaning?

Yes and yes. 

Candy can be a good opener to make friends.

:) Just had some great licorice in New Mexico. Maybe I will bring that.

June in the afternoon is hot, not humid like Wisconsin.

Tuolumne Meadows is always at higher elevation, usually cooler.

How many miles do you expect to hike in a day? Overnight?

Just day hikes I think, probably something like ~8 miles depending on elevation.

I appreciate the responses. I'm not against using a guide by any means, was more curious on the culture there or if this is something that is commonly done; will probably look into using their services anyway.

Bb Cc · · California · Joined May 2020 · Points: 1,186

Very early morning do upper Yosemite Falls trail.

Go to Tuolumne, on the way stop at Olmsted Pt, park somewhere at Tenaya Lake then walk all the way around, continue to Tuolumne Meadows, get a burger at the store and if not threatening lightning go hike Lembert Dome.

Go back to Tuolumne Meadows another day and hike to Cathedral Lakes (bring rain coat and fleece layers and headlamps or flashlights and water filter) go to both Cathedral Lakes and maybe up slabs of Cathedral Peak until you get even better views. Climb is different thing.

Go back another day and hike Lyell Canyon to Rafferty Creek up towards Volgelsang, go 4-5 miles and return this will be a nice 8-10 mile hike.

Go to Mariposa Grove at South entrance (Wawona/Fish Camp). Bus takes you up the 2 miles. Then walk the lower and upper trails past Galen Clark Cabin and Wawona Pt. This will be partially road (no vehicles anymore). The giant Sequoia are awesome.

On way back down towards Valley go to Glacier Pt. See the overlooks, get some snacks or ice cream, then walk about 1.4 miles down the 4 Mile Trail, you will know when you reach the top switchback and can see West to El Cap etc. Enjoy a snack and refreshment. Return to Glacier Pt.

Do the Mist Trail very early one morning. Very early is a theme. Arrive to park at 7am or earlier, 20,000 people want to park where you do.

I normally start my 15-20 mile day hikes at 6am walking.

Dm me if you want other ideas or fine tuning.

I hire a guide at Devil's Tower; plenty of climbing and minimal pfaffing. Hire a guide in Valley if heat is ok, Tuolumne if replace hike to Cathedral.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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