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Needles of SD: Spires without the spice?

Original Post
MattH · · CO mostly · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,492

My wife+I are headed to the custer/rushmore area in a few weeks and my wife is really keen on doing some of the 'tiny summit'/bowling pin style spires. 

I figure I'll lead a few (the hit list right now is tent peg, cerberus, eyetooth, and Sandberg peak), but it'd be awesome if there were any G-rated routes that she could lead (she's got a recovering finger injury and is not really up for finger-y runouts on granite) or other ones I can lead on days I'm a bit mentally fried. 

I guess tent peg/sandberg might be ok for her but some new ideas to keep in the pocket could be good. Sub-5.10 would be ideal given the finger injury.

Dr Worm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 115

Lots of routes there go to cool summits, tiny or rotund. G rated? Not as common, especially if you aren't used to that type of rock/climbing. Look for things in the guidebook that are sport routes. Best protected sport routes tend to be concentrated in the Rushmore/south seas area. Many routes even there may feel runout depending on where you usually climb. 

Bobby Baune · · Rapid City, SD · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 5

CSP: Spire 1 Reppy Variation, Doody Direct, Turkey Lander Shoot, and Conn Route Up Aquarium are all fairly safe and fun. Not necessarily small spires but fun nonetheless.

Rushmore: Evergreen, Captain Ron, and Star Dancer are fun. If you want something harder, Deja Vu Prophecy is probably my favorite in the hills (you could lead the first pitch and she could lead the second). 

Bobby Baune · · Rapid City, SD · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 5

Oh and Pointy Little Devil 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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