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Farley total closure effective immediately.

Original Post
Rhulad Sengar · · Kharkhanas · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 12

Heard from a friend that there are now "No trespassing" signs that have been put up just as the trail splits right to the main boulder area. Probably not a good idea to go there for the time being if you intend to boulder or sport climbing. 

Updated to include more recent info from wmcc

Ron Birk · · Boston, MA · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 6,327

https://climbgneiss.org/farley-ledge-is-temporarily-closed/

"Farley Ledge is temporarily CLOSED. One of the private land owners have asked that no one trespass or climb on their property. It is not possible to access any of the climbing from the WMCC parking lot without crossing their land, so our lot is currently closed as well.

We understand that this is very sudden and last minute before a Saturday and assure you we are doing the best we can to communicate clearly to climbers and follow the land owners wishes.

We will have more updates soon. Please share and thank you for your cooperation as we are working this out."

Ron Birk · · Boston, MA · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 6,327

Also from https://climbgneiss.org/farley-ledges/

"Farley is currently closed as we work to sort out access that does not cross private property. There is currently NO AVAILABLE PARKING and the climbing from Zen Wall to K2 is posted by the landowners who have asked that no climbers enter their land. Thank you for respecting this closure and stay tuned for more updates."

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

So sorry to hear this.

Alex Wanko · · San Francisco, CA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

Sad to hear, as someone who has climbed here for almost 20 years, access was feeling pretty good.  This is a solum reminder that access is never guaranteed unless climbers own the land.

I thought WMCC bought the land for the parking lot and the cliffs some years back, was I incorrect?  Do we know who the landowner is who restricted the access (private homeowner vs power company)?

Support your local climbing organization!  WMCC does great work and I am optimistic this can be resolved - I will still most likely be too weak to send my project however.

Anthony A · · Carrboro · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

Fundraiser to build a parking lot to provide alternative access: 

Farley Ledge Conservation Fundraiser | Western Mass Climbers Coalition (Powered by Donorbox) https://share.google/WA7xgLb0GCgvi0DJj

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205
Anthony Awrote:

Fundraiser to build a parking lot to provide alternative access: 

Farley Ledge Conservation Fundraiser | Western Mass Climbers Coalition (Powered by Donorbox) https://share.google/WA7xgLb0GCgvi0DJj

Wasn’t the lot already purchased and built only to be scuppered by a single land owner?

Ron Birk · · Boston, MA · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 6,327

Frank Steinwrote:

Wasn’t the lot already purchased and built only to be scuppered by a single land owner?

From the link above:
"The WMCC is actively working toward a long-term solution in collaboration with partners, including the Access Fund. Efforts are focused on identifying sustainable access options and advancing the development of a new parking area on WMCC-owned land, which is intended to support more secure and reliable access to the cliff."

Zach Liebold · · Massachusetts · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0
Alex Wankowrote:

Sad to hear, as someone who has climbed here for almost 20 years, access was feeling pretty good.  This is a solum reminder that access is never guaranteed unless climbers own the land.

I thought WMCC bought the land for the parking lot and the cliffs some years back, was I incorrect?  Do we know who the landowner is who restricted the access (private homeowner vs power company)?

Support your local climbing organization!  WMCC does great work and I am optimistic this can be resolved - I will still most likely be too weak to send my project however.

They bought the land for the current parking lot, but there is no access to the cliffs without crossing private property. To my knowledge all of the cliffs lie on either power company property or private property. The new parking lot will provide access without having to cross private property.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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