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Boston Area Rock Climbers - When can we go outside?

Original Post
Josh Rappoport · · Natick, MA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 31

Given precip and temp volatility, any thoughts on when places like Farley or Hanging might be reliable for rock climbing?

Won't even ask about Crow...

Thanks!!!

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

There will be lots of melting combined with occasional showers for the next several days - so areas that are prone to seepage are going to be wet for awhile.  Additionally some places - like the main wall at Farley - are notorious for ice falling from higher up when the meltdown occurs.  But if we get a prolonged series of warn (50 degrees + ) sunny days - like might happen in a week - it shouldn't take long.

dave custer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 3,088

This week's weather is why New England climbers despair and move to AZ, NV, and CA. Or take up bowling.

Crow Hill  isn't as wet as you think it is, but it's not dry either. Rumney is an option on a sunny day (black rock, faces more or less south), especially if you're willing to climb ice in the early AM, rock in the middle of the day, and go for a hike/snowshoe/ski in the afternoon (a good sphinx question to keep the riffraff out: what climbs ice in the morning, rock at noon, and skis in evening??? A New England would-be rock climber). Camden Maine could be another triathlon climbing day option. Trap Rock near Hartford also has the black rock/south-face going for it. See a recent MP post about parking (lack thereof) at sunny climbing venues in Maine. The gunks is a plausible option this weekend if the weather holds and if you're willing to climb easy stuff to snow-covered ledges.

Maybe see you in the gym or a bar soon...

Ryan Enright · · Saratoga Springs, NY · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Agreeing with above, a couple 50 degree days in a row you can start seeing some dry rock on southern faces. I got out to the local crag here in the adks this Saturday, had some dry lines for a couple hours, then when things warmed to around 40-50 the crag turned into a waterfall and we bailed just as the ice bombs on top of the cliff started going off.


A couple more weeks of rain and warming. Freeze thaw season requires so vigilance and patience for sure.

Nick Bahr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 211

Yo if anyone needs a partner let me know, I just moved to Boston. Once it warms up I'll be itching to get on anything - bouldering, sport or trad. Shoot me a text if you're psyched - (three14) 610-592eight. 

Sean Fleuriel · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 25

There is still plenty of snow at hanging mountain, even after the warm weekend.  The next few days of warm weather will mean every face will be soaked until the stashes of snow on top of the cliffs are gone. Parking lot is still inaccessible unless you bring a snow plow.   

dave custer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 3,088

Crow Hill is now wetter than you think it is. The only climb that looked like it wasn't part of river/stream system was OuterSite.

robert sullivan · · Florence, MA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 2

The WMCC strongly advises folks to avoid climbing at Hanging Mountain at this time of year because we think the late winter/early spring free/thaw cycle is the most likely time to produce rock fall.

Hanging Mountain is prone to rock fall to begin with (and we always recommend wearing a helmet here, especially when belaying), but we know of at least two MAJOR exfoliations at this time of year: one just south of the Corps Wall and one at The Grotto.  

Email me if you want any additional information: rob@climbgneiss.org

Josh Rappoport · · Natick, MA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 31

Checked out College Rock yesterday afternoon and it was...mostly dry

There were even two people setting up a toprope while I was there!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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