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Egypt Granite Climbing Trip

Original Post
Matthew Schutz · · Clovis, CA · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 54

Hi Everyone,

I'm seeking out a climbing partner for some time in Egypt I am planning for. The area features superb trad climbing on small to big walls out in the desert of Egypt's Sinai Peninsula. The rock is a rose colored granite that looks like J-Tree and Vedawoo had a baby. Mostly cracks and slabs, seems like bolts are not very prominent in the area. Looking for someone comfortable on 5.10-5.11 trad on big routes with no fixed anchors. There is some sport climbing on the sandstone areas near the coast near some popular diving locations in the red sea. So it's fly to Cairo, get to the Sinai, hire some dudes to take us out on camels to get us close to the walls. They cook for us at night and make sure we have water and the needed supplies to safely climb in the desert. Not hard to find a guide that speaks English. I'll be doing the trip in April. Possibility for some FA's? Just Google Sinai Rock Climbing to get an idea of the rock. 

As for me I've been climbing for 30 years, excellent trad skills. Done el Cap a few times. Personally developed 100's of new lines mostly in California and Mexico. Can totally handle the rig. Happy to handle the bulk of the guide payments etc just need someone experienced to travel with that's stoked to collaborate on creating a rad trip, support climbing together and share good times!! Feel free to contact me directly at the email listed in my profile eatsleepclimbatgeemail.com or five five nine two zero three two five seven four. I don't really check mountain project much at all. Info is tough but I do have some to share. Still in the preliminary phases of researching and locking in guides etc but there is a book published for the area in addition to the .pdf guide but I'm trying to get my hands on the book is tough because it's only in Europe. Below are some shots of the climbing just to get the juices flowing.  

Thanks,

Matt

F r i t z · · North Mitten · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,190

While I can't accompany you, I'm bumping this because I was very impressed with the quality of Sinai granite when I was there in 2013. 

I wish you the best on what will undoubtedly be an extraordinary adventure.

Where's Walden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 289

I'm intrigued, but far from a definite yes. When and how long are you looking for a trip and what would the weather be like? 

Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52

Keep am eye out on travel restrictions.  A few came up for African countries coming to the US recently.  Pretty sure Egypt is okay but you never know.

While in egypt watch out for scams.

Martin Brzozowski · · Costa Mesa, CA · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 120

Hey I’m heading out that way in maybe a few weeks, when are you planning to go? I’m flexible on dates. 7343098631

Matthew Schutz · · Clovis, CA · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 54
Where's Waldenwrote:

I'm intrigued, but far from a definite yes. When and how long are you looking for a trip and what would the weather be like? 

Early to mid April. How long is yet to be determined its a work it out together situation. I'm still awaiting the guidebook in the mail. After that I can choose some objectives and consult with the local guides about how long the trip will take. The weather will be warm and dry. Total desert situation like red rocks I guess but even red rocks looks to be slightly wetter and more vegetated than the Sinai!

Martin Kocsis · · Chinley, Derbyshire · Joined Apr 2005 · Points: 6

The Sinai is a great place to climb. I did one of the routes in your first posted picture - "The Hills Have Eyes"....a steady 5.10

I've done a few dozen new routes there over the years. Have DM'd you in case you don't read this.

Charles Winstead · · Mill Valley · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 184

Sounds fun. I’ve been wanting to go to Egypt to scope it out in advance of a 2027 trip to see the eclipse. One of my bucket list items is to cross the Sahara on camel, so there’s that. Will you be doing any scuba diving while there?

Matthew Schutz · · Clovis, CA · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 54
Martin Kocsiswrote:

The Sinai is a great place to climb. I did one of the routes in your first posted picture - "The Hills Have Eyes"....a steady 5.10

I've done a few dozen new routes there over the years. Have DM'd you in case you don't read this.

Dude that's awesome Martin!! The dude we are talking to says we can only go back in there for 4 days at a time. I'd love to spend a bit more and climb the sheik too. How was it? Was the foood and water ok?

Martin Kocsis · · Chinley, Derbyshire · Joined Apr 2005 · Points: 6

Hi Matthew, who is it that you're talking to who's said this? 

I've never had to limit my stays in the desert and my contacts out there right now say that nothing has changed in that respect in the last year or so. When you're in St Catherine, I can suggest Sheik Mousa's Bedouin Camp for accommodation. You have to have guides and camel wranglers to go into the desert - those are just the rules and that helps to bring money into the village. The guides will cook for you and they are great guys. Sheik Mousa will organise guides for you. We have used Nasr (not sure of his last name) and Ragab Eid. They both understand climbing and have done a bit themselves. Sometimes it's necessary to pay a fee (bribe) to the local police post in town, but the guides & Sheik Mousa will sort this out for you. The food was great, and the guys are able to get water for long stays in the desert - they have camels and while you're climbing they wander off to wells and refill. It's always wise to take purification kit - either tablets or filters, but I've never had any problems along those lines. 

I've got a few spare copies of the guide I could sell you at cost if you haven't got one yet.

I'm on kinderguide@hotmail.com if you need more info.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 22,822
Martin Kocsiswrote:

When you're in St Catherine, I can suggest Sheik Mousa's Bedouin Camp for accommodation.

Be a great place for adventure climbing.  Not bad for just hiking too!

Stayed at the Bedouin Camp in May 2023.  Good place and nice hang.

Charles Winstead · · Mill Valley · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 184

Y’all still going to Egypt what with the war in Iran and all that?

JR climber · · Boulder, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0

Go to Wadi Ram, instead.

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

I'd say now is not the time to be going to the Middle East. . .

Martin Brzozowski · · Costa Mesa, CA · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 120

I went just before the war to Egypt and Wadi Rum. Wadi Rum is amazing

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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