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Sewn webbing rope termination

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Caleb Hils · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0

Does anyone know of a company, or person, that can and will do sewn webbing terminations like the new connect adjust or like Edelrid web link but on dynamic climbing rope?


Andrew Lamb · · Wyoming · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 16

Have you asked mountain tools in California? They do reslinging services for all sorts of gear so I'm sure they could figure this out. 

Erik J · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

Marten Penrose from dark arts splicing did a few of these when the new adjust came out iirc

Caleb Hils · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0
Erik Jwrote:

Marten Penrose from dark arts splicing did a few of these when the new adjust came out iirc

Any advice to get a hold of him?

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 87
Caleb Hilswrote:

Does anyone know of a company, or person, that can and will do sewn webbing terminations like the new connect adjust or like Edelrid web link but on dynamic climbing rope? 

I gotta know why though....

Caleb Hils · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0
Mr Rogerswrote:

I gotta know why though....

Same reason an arborist would want this sorta termination, low profile clipping point for a biner. Wanted to rerope an adjust and I’m a huge nerd so just seeing what’s possible and what it would cost. I’ll share my brainchild if it’s ever brought into existence 

Erik J · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0
Caleb Hilswrote:

Any advice to get a hold of him?

Facebook probably. Reach out directly, or he's active on "the splice rack" group and has his own "the break room" where he break tests stuff.

Caleb Hils · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0
Erik Jwrote:

Facebook probably. Reach out directly, or he's active on "the splice rack" group and has his own "the break room" where he break tests stuff.

Much appreciated! 

Brocky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Splicing is another option, the method I use only reduces the break strength by 8%, better than knots, or sewing.  The strands are taken out and reinserted, so some stretch might be lost if they were previously twisted, or crimped.

Caleb Hils · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0
Brockywrote:

Splicing is another option, the method I use only reduces the break strength by 8%, better than knots, or sewing.  The strands are taken out and reinserted, so some stretch might be lost if they were previously twisted, or crimped.

That looks super clean! Two questions, is that normal kern and mantle rope, and how does it not gain significant diameter near the splices?

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 87
Brockywrote:

Splicing is another option, the method I use only reduces the break strength by 8%, better than knots, or sewing.  The strands are taken out and reinserted, so some stretch might be lost if they were previously twisted, or crimped.

I too am curious what rope you're using Brocky. That a double braid?
Kernmantle rock climbing ropes are a notorious "you cant splice that" from even the most enthusiastic and committed of splicers.... Looks awesome.

Brocky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

That’s Sterling’s 8.4mm Duetto Xerox’s cover and core strands. Half the amount of strands, that are twice as long, are reinserted, half going through the eye.  The strength can be improved by burying a long cover tail.

Caleb Hils · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0
Brockywrote:

That’s Sterling’s 8.4mm Duetto Xerox’s cover and core strands. Half the amount of strands, that are twice as long, are reinserted, half going through the eye.  The strength can be improved by burying a long cover tail.

So you’re saying that half the cot strands were removed, and then the remaining ones were doubled back through the rope? Ie the rope still has the same number of core strands and they are just split somewhere in the middle, Do you have any literature that illustrates this method of splicing? I’m also curious about your setup on you harness, do you use that for tree cutting or climbing related? 

Brocky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Using this method allows you to make 2 items, the strands are divided in half and the cover is cut in half, after strands are removed.  I first made it like the left drawing, and then figured a way to have the strands enter through the side.  Buried the cover tail for a better a look at first, but found more length improved the strength.

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 87

Thanks Brocky. I'm gonna give this a shot sometime in the next week.

Caleb Hils · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0
Brockywrote:

Using this method allows you to make 2 items, the strands are divided in half and the cover is cut in half, after strands are removed.  I first made it like the left drawing, and then figured a way to have the strands enter through the side.  Buried the cover tail for a better a look at first, but found more length improved the strength.

Much appreciated. To help my understanding, is there then a point in the middle of the line that is technically weak because it only has half the strands running, ie where the two sets of tails meet?

Brocky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

The eye is the weak link because there are half the strands compared to the rest of the rope, but there two sides to the eye. The ends meet at the eye and travel down the cover together, a little staggered, that makes milking the cover over that section easier. I first tried running one set of core ends down the cover and then the other, but the first set of strands can separate while the second set is being slide by, trapping them, and locking up the movement.

After both ends have been attached to the wire eye, the strands need to be stretched out and tensioned, before sliding the cover. This is a limiting factor of this method, you need two anchor points twice the distance apart of the finished item.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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