Rusty Baillie

 

Rusty Baillie, 85 years young, passed away peacefully at home, in Idaho with his talented loving wife, Pat Baillie, this past December 2025.

The world is a colder place without his knowing smile and a cup of tea to grace whatever adventure awaited the day.  Climbing with Rusty was a link to the days of yore. Harlin, Robbins, Tom Frost, Whillans, Joe Brown, Bonnington and so many others. Many significant ascents, to name a few, include the North Face of the Eiger in ‘64 with Dougal Haston, first solo of Polar Circus, first ascent of the Troll Wall Norway, first ascent of the Dragon route in the Black Canyon with compadres, Lovejoy, Baxter and Karlstrom, first ascent of The old Man of Hoy with Chris Bonnington.  The list is considerable.  Rusty and Barry Cliff summited both Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya in 1964. Blazing peak to peak in a Jaguar for 308 adrenalin inducing miles while setting a Speed Record of 21 hours 40 minutes to summit both peaks.

 I had the good fortune to climb, raft and bike with Rusty over the last 24 years.  We shared many first ascents, brew aka tea time, cold beers aka brew time and thoughtful conversation. Rusty lived a life that would remind us of staying true to a calling, he never stopped.   Rusty married his beautiful English born wife Pat of 60 years who kept the family and friends fed from her extraordinary garden always looking after friends and family.  

Rusty is survived by Pat Baillie, his daughters and their families Sheila and Randy Hughes (Tristan and Colin) and Rowan and Greg Hill (Jessie and Indigo).  The world is a colder place without that knowing smile and energy leading onward…..his life and accomplishments a n inspiration across the globe.

 

With the pace of a mountain goat and the heart of Lion, Rusty never stopped living – he’d rather die trying and many times nearly succeeded.

From the top of the Black Canyon or thru raging frozen water falls to high mountain peaks he mountain bikes the range and ponders the mysteries of the universe

Adventures called and the trail it began, and the wind whispered to this special man;

A figure of love, passion and grace, brown dancing eyes and a smile on his face;

I wonder now what we should do or should say; I’ll follow his tracks and with Rusty in my mind cherish each day;

From Scotland to Everest the mountains called and the trail it began, it never stopped… and the wind always whispered to this special man.  Our friend and brother.  

Modified poem by Amy Tonsmeire

I was able to work with Rusty et al on revisions to Granite Mountain 25+ years ago. Stayed at his home with Pat and him and utilized the tea pass through. And of course climbed with him in the Prescott area several times. Great Energy. His Eiger ascent was also the first colonial with Haston.  rip bud, time for a pint.

Rusty was born in Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) and did first ascents, using rudimentary gear, on its abundant granite. He was genuinely friendly—was tall, lanky, and climbed gracefully. 

I had the good fortune to get to know Rusty when I moved to Spokane in 2002. Over the next 17 years that I lived there we shared many good adventures. Rusty was always working on one project or another: new Climbing route development, trail building, advocacy involvement with the local Climbing or Mountain Biking groups, and just being a valuable part of the Climbing community. Aside from being a lifelong Climber and Mountaineer, Rusty was a good Nordic Skier, an accomplished whitewater Paddler and a talented Mountain Biker. Drawing from his vast Outdoor background, he would regale us with stories around evening campfires and I always felt like I was getting a first-hand history lesson. His health took a downturn the last few years and finally caught up with him and I'm sure it was very hard for this energetic soul to slow down. R.I.P. Rusty, we'll miss you...

Eric Barrett

Sacramento, CA

Rusty's was one of the big names to follow in the UK when we began in the mid 1960's and became an inspiration upon the sighting of THAT John Cleare photograph: "Baillie bombing The Gates".
I was delighted to finally get to meet him as we shared stances on Birdland in Pine Creek Canyon in 2012. Rusty was five years older than me, but not showing any signs of it. He had a ready smile and an easy manner which didn't altogether mask his serious side. For me a happy and memorable meeting I was glad was recorded in this photo of he and I taken by my partner Al Blackburn.

Rusty was my main climbing partner when I lived in his adopted homeland of the inland Northwest. Many wonderful days of climbing and new routing. RIP, my friend.

Never met Rusty, but from the comments above, I wish I had. RIP

Absolute legend! I'll never forget the day we were making a winter ascent of Big Rock near Spokane and he compared the climbing to being on the White Spider. What a connection to climbing history. He is missed!