Ugly Hardware Only

This was the most funky anchor we replaced  

Wiggled this one out mostly by hand with little hammering. Couldn’t get this annoying chalk graffiti off though, tried water, brushing, brushing with water. If you come across a bad bolt post on here don’t write on the wall.

Most of the bolts on this route looked like this. 

Anna Brownwrote:

Most of the bolts on this route looked like this.

Some people should be publicly flogged!

Anna how long were those bolts? Did you pull them? Curious of the length sunk into the rock itself.

I didn’t pull them but I want to do the work just to answer that very question! We suspected old cheap bolts that wouldn’t tighten down when first installed.

I was at the wall to replace a single spinning bolt on a different route and ended up replacing 3 more on the route and the anchor also. I’ll have to go back another day to dig into this route also.

No publicly flogging needed. We’ll just make them climb slab. 

The OG glue-in? This sleeve wouldn’t wiggle at all with vice grips attached, so I folded the edges into the hole and patched it. 

While on a hike in Hong Kong I found this 1/8" chain handline protecting a short 3rd class scramble to an adjacent peak. Not really climbing, but ugly enough I had to share.

Wow! The tube of whatever that goop is exploded!!! 

That's the glue equivalent of "if you don't know knots, tie lots"

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1/4” Star Dryve spotted today in Vegas.

Anyone know the route?

Jack Mullenwrote:

Anyone know the route?

Pale Fire on Moses tower?

Ho man, those are SCHWEET hangers.

Those a gorgeous. Would whip!

Ben Vwrote:

Pale Fire on Moses tower?

That's the one!

Found on Sour Mash with an updated bolt close by.

Old SMC hanger with most likely a very hammered dropin bolt.

Anna Brownwrote:

Found on Sour Mash with an updated bolt close by.

Old SMC hanger with most likely a very hammered dropin bolt.

Could also be a dowell or a self drive? The hammered head makes me think dowell, but that is not so common. If after soaking with pentrating oil it doesnt turn easilly, a burly tuning fork might do the job. If it is a dowell and you turn it hard it will break.

Isn’t a dropin a self driving bolt? Can you educate me on what a dowell is? New word for me. I assume it’s hammered as well? 

I’ll think this bolt was left in place for historical purposes. It was one I saw while climbing the route. To me it’s “pretty” and “ugly” but more pretty. 

I know ASCA and others lump drop-ins and self drives together. To me they are different because the extraction method is completely different. The wedge or cone on a drop in has the taper in the opposite dirrection as a selfdrive. To set a drop in you drive the cone with a setting tool. When setting a self drive you drive the sleeve after sticking the cone in the end. 

A dowell or rivet or carrot as the Australians call them is just a machine bolt driven in a hole. They have been placed with or without hangers.