Help a dad with RRG

Hey, going to RRG with the fam (9 and 11 yr kids, newbie climber wife) for climbing, hiking and shenanigans in late April for their vacation.

What areas should we target for max fun under 5.10 (honestly more like 5.7-8 is best)? I have the guidebook (The red, newest edition) but wanted to get some takes from experts in the area.

I'm an experienced trad and sport leader that's planning on bringing a double rack, so those are in play. Ideally looking for interesting climbing that isn't too heady for the fam. 

Also any "don't miss" ones that are nearby up to about 5.10b so I can potentially rip out a quick lead. 

Muir valley

Yep, was trying to avoid any bias, but I have marked:
Muir Valley - Animal Crackers wall, great wall, Hideout, Bruise Brothers - possibly guides/practice if the bigger stuff isn't working out.

Also - Global Village, Left end of Roadside, Gold Coast, Hazel Hollow and Nursery in Miller Fork. 

Also in Muir, Land Before Time is another good option, with the added benefit of the shortest approach there.

Alan Rubinwrote:

Also in Muir, Land Before Time is another good option, with the added benefit of the shortest approach there.

Even my youngest has knocked off NH 4000 footers, so approach distance isn't a massive concern if the payoff is there. 

The climbing there is fine. Not many routes and short but good rock and good spread of grades. The short approach is good if you have limited time n one day or if the weather is questionable.

Good luck. My wife and kids abhor outdoor climbing. It’s very sad.

Mark Bwrote:

Good luck. My wife and kids abhor outdoor climbing. It’s very sad.

I have slowly gotten most of my family into it. My son is the only holdout, despite having really solid instincts. I just force them all into it constantly like the terrible father and husband I am. 

Quick question - do I need to worry about graining fork permits at all or no? I did all the steps, donated and sent an email, but have gotten zero back from the email address. Any alternative contacts?

Casey Jwrote:

Quick question - do I need to worry about graining fork permits at all or no? I did all the steps, donated and sent an email, but have gotten zero back from the email address. Any alternative contacts?

Facebook? - https://www.facebook.com/GrainingFork/

amariuswrote:

Facebook? - https://www.facebook.com/GrainingFork/

I don't have any Meta accounts of any type. 

Last time I applied, I submitted request on Monday, got reply late Monday.
Did you check your spam/junk folder?

Also, no mention of Ash Branch yet - easy approach a good smattering of easier routes
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/126062464/ash-branch 

Nope, sent on the 13th and haven't heard a peep

Hey, in case anyone cared - you have a very special place in the gorge, had a ton of fun at bruise brothers, practice wall, Great Wall and animal crackers (family trip so we played the low grades and stayed in muir for simplicity). Can't wait to come back as we just scratched the surface. 

Also I want miguels (vibe of the place and gear shop) near me. 

So glad you had a great time! Those are some awesome crags to take the family to. Next time, you might check out Land Before Time in Muir and then head to Bald Rock/PMRP for the Unlode, Hazel Hollow, the Office, and the Shire. Lots to keep y'all busy!

Miguel's is actually expanding their gear shop to the huge building next door. It was supposed to be open already but now it looks like they're targeting later in the year. So next time you come back, that will hopefully be open!

Awesome! Family is still climbing lower on the grade side, so likely next time. Not gonna lie, the cramped closet factor has some old school appeal. 

Can't wait for checking out the other spots.