Mountain Project Logo

Cap Trinité info needed

Original Post
jackkelly00 · · Chocorua, NH · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 325

Hello,
Does anyone have any information or book information for cap Trinité? I’m looking to purchase a guidebook not in French. I’ve searched the web and only found French language guidebooks. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

I'm not aware of anything in English for that area--and not even really that much in French. I haven't climbed on Cap Trinite itself, but have had to rely on my poor French and interpreting the not so great photo topos available at the time to figure things out at a number of other crags in Quebec with somewhat 'mixed success'. I believe that the classic routes at Le Cap follow relatively obvious lines so you should be fine.

jackkelly00 · · Chocorua, NH · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 325

Thanks al!

Marc-Andre Giasson · · Arlington, MA · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

Don't waste your time trying to find an English language guidebook for that wall, or pretty much any crag in Québec for that matter; there isn't. There is a (French) online topo available on the FQME website (scroll down on homepage, Topos-->Topos en ligne-->Cap Trinité

jackkelly00 · · Chocorua, NH · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 325

This is very helpful. I may have to learn francais...

Thank you for the link.

Gregory Fanarisios · · Pennsylvania · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 879

There’s a free PDF available for Cap Trinite. Below is a partial English translation of
Guide de l'escalade libre au cap Trinité Stéphane Perron, 2010

https://fqme.qc.ca/app/uploads/2019/05/Cap-Trinit%C3%A9.pdf

 English Translation:

Cap Trinité is widely considered one of the jewels of Québec climbing cliffs. Rising about 250 m above the Saguenay Fjord, it offers a dramatic wilderness setting with outstanding crack climbing. The wall features numerous natural protection routes and remains an excellent adventure venue. The approach can be memorable: by ski in winter, hiking with heavy packs via the statue trail, canoeing in waves, or most commonly kayaking. Conditions can change quickly on the fjord. Climbing here requires solid experience, as routes often involve multiple pitches, natural protection, and sustained difficulty. Formerly an aid-climbing venue, many routes are now climbed free, and there remains significant potential for new moderate routes in the surrounding valley. This guide aims to provide information on free climbing at Cap Trinité and to encourage responsible development of this exceptional climbing area.

Best climbing runs from May to mid-June before black flies peak. Bugs decrease gradually starting in early August, and climbing is often possible until October. Check park authorities for seasonal closures protecting peregrine falcon nesting. From Québec City, take Highway 175 north through Parc des Laurentides. At Chicoutimi, turn right onto Route 170 toward La Baie and continue to Rivière-Éternité. Follow park signs; parking is about 7 km past the entrance, and travel time is roughly three hours. A serviced campground is located halfway down the road to the parking lot. Bivouacs are possible near the base of the cliff, but potable water must be carried since fjord water is salty. Practice Leave No Trace ethics. Cap Trinité lies inside Saguenay National Park, where daily access fees apply. Respect regulations and minimize environmental impact, as continued climbing access depends on responsible behavior. Approaches include paddling to the wall (20–30 minutes, sometimes rough conditions), chartering a Zodiac boat, or hiking via the Notre-Dame-du-Saguenay statue trail (about two hours). Climbing is possible at any tide, but high tide simplifies boat access. Some ledges along the left sector flood above about 3.3 m tide height, so timing may be required. Tide tables for Tadoussac are typically used as reference. The rock is granite with variable quality: grey rock exposed to weather is generally solid but sometimes dirty, while orange rock under roofs may be more friable. Most routes require traditional protection including cams, nuts, and slings. Cleaning cracks when descending helps improve conditions for future climbers.

In the left sector, Beluga – Le Dos (12+) features sustained thin crack climbing followed by a chimney behind a large pillar and is usually rappelled with one 60 m rope. Beluga – Le Ventre (11d) offers offwidth-style climbing with a difficult second pitch and can be top-roped with a 60 m rope. Haute Voltige (13b) consists of four pitches including a notable roof crack, with rappel descent. Marée Haute (12b) provides sustained delicate climbing, with two 50 m ropes recommended for descent. In the right sector, La Cavale (13b) is a long modern free route opened in 2007 featuring sustained crack and face climbing, requiring two 50 m ropes for rappel. La Vire du Curé Dallaire (11+) is a slightly more moderate crack route with variants and an optional finish into La Cavale. Les Grands Galets (12d) is a classic free route on excellent granite with historical significance. Les Joyeux Lurons (11+) is less documented but reportedly a good line that may need some cleaning.

The surrounding valley contains additional undeveloped cliffs and bouldering potential. Responsible exploration, route cleaning, and respectful access practices can help establish the area as a premier traditional climbing destination in eastern North America.

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

I know that the original post on this thread is 8 years old, but since it has just been revived, I want to mention that there is now a 50 Classics book out for multi-pitch trad routes in Quebec, that contains several routes on Cap Trinitie. The book is by long-time and prolific Quebecois first ascender, Jacques Lamontagne ( perfect name!!!). While it is in French, it is ( mostly ) easy to translate, especially the route description sections ( it also has route line photos).
The one current negative is that the book only seems to be available in Canada ( and, not surprisingly, primarily in Quebec), and, at the moment many Canadian businesses ( including most climbing outfitters) are no longer shipping to the US ( I can't imagine why this is happening!!!!).

Marc-Andre Giasson · · Arlington, MA · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
Alan Rubinwrote:

The one current negative is that the book only seems to be available in Canada ( and, not surprisingly, primarily in Quebec), 

It seems like www.archambault.ca will ship it internationally, but the shipping cost is greater than the book price.

and, at the moment many Canadian businesses ( including most climbing outfitters) are no longer shipping to the US ( I can't imagine why this is happening!!!!).

Some companies mention it's because of all the trouble linked to the tariffs on small shipments.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

International
Post a Reply to "Cap Trinité info needed"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.