Best resoler

michalmwrote:

Just got two pairs of original Boostics back from Greater Tahoe Gripworks (now FA Resoles). They do full-sole resoles that allow the shoe to be re-tensioned over the last (the foot-shaped negative volume the shoe is constructed on). It’s a bit of extra money even compared to Rock and Resole, but the quality is the best I’ve seen on a resole. The shoes have downturn and asymmetrical camber like new, and the sole pads are even shaped exactly like the factory soles. Talk about attention to detail! 

My only constructive feedback would be to bevel the edges in a few more degrees so they don’t roll off tiny edges before fully broken in, but that’s definitely on the nitpicking side of things.

i’ll post a photo at some point to illustrate the impressive quality of Chris’s resoles.

Boostics is one of the shoes out there that has a good balance between a full sole and rand rubber. The tension in the shoes is from the rands not sole. Full soles have to oppose effect on shoes with tension. Manufacturers started using half soles so the shoes would have that downturn shape. Save some money too.  

I have to give it to Chris is pretty brave for stop using Vibram rubber and increasing the price for rubber that everyone else uses as the cheaper option. Davos is better than most rubber out there but there is a reason why everyone uses Vibram. 

Anybody got a recommendation for a butora resoler? Haven't been able to find any with reviews that specifically mention butora.

Jeremiah Whitewrote:

Anybody got a recommendation for a butora resoler? Haven't been able to find any with reviews that specifically mention butora.

Jay at Backcountry Cobblers has Butora’s Neo Fuse rubber listed as an option. He did my Alturas with XS Edge and they were awesome as expected but that last is obviously very different than the Acro or something aggressive. 

Slim Pickenswrote:

Chris at Greater Tahoe Gripworks is re-branding his business as FA Resoles. They are @FA_Resoles on insta and faresoles.com is their new web address (though their old url still works).

Just yesterday, I received back two pairs that I sent to them in early December—a pair of solution comps and a pair of chimeras. These were, I think, the fifth and sixth pairs that Chris has done for me. He is a master craftsman. I cannot recommend highly enough. 

I’d agree that Chris at Greater Tahoe Gripworks/FA Resoles is a true craftsman at what he does. I’ve used Tahoe Gripworks, Rock And Resole, and Plattsburgh Shoe Hospital. The resoles Chris has done are for sure better than the others. 

Greater Tahoe gripworks / fa resoles is the best hands down. Every shoe I’ve gotten back has looked/ felt and climbed brand new, except it’s already broken in! Win win win win! 

Does anyone have the number to rock and resole?

Photos as promised. Please excuse the hairs stuck to the rubber; those were entirely my doing.

I probably wouldn’t pay $100+ per pair to resole all of my climbing shoes, but for unobtanium like the original Boostics, it’s nice to get them back as close to factory shape as possible. I’ll keep sending all my freshie Boostics to Chris when they need a resole so I can keep tiptoeing up granite.

What rubber did you go with? 

Jeremy McCormickwrote:

What rubber did you go with? 

I used Edge. I’m hesitant to experiment with shoes that are no longer made. I’ve heard various reports about Davos Ultra. I’d try them on some shoes that are less crucial to me.

michalmwrote:

I used Edge. I’m hesitant to experiment with shoes that are no longer made. I’ve heard various reports about Davos Ultra. I’d try them on some shoes that are less crucial to me.

About to put an order in, trying out 3 out of the 4 Davos options, they all sound amazing.  By chance have you tried the new new Boostics? I remember hearing they were the same or at least more like the parrot version. 

just got a pair of katakis back from Greater Tahoe/FA resoles and they are perfect. Chris used the La Spo factory rubber. I can't recommend his services highly enough. And when the time comes, I will trust him to use whatever rubber compound he recommends. the best resole I have seen yet...

michalmwrote:

I used Edge. I’m hesitant to experiment with shoes that are no longer made. I’ve heard various reports about Davos Ultra. I’d try them on some shoes that are less crucial to me.

I never seen vibram act as lint roller lint roller before or grinding like that. 

The edges look good, where they supposed to be. They are like that because he grind the rand a little bit. 

Another day 1 Chris supporter.
waiting on my box to show up today, I’ll follow up with photos like above but a couple things I can chime in on.

I run the ultra on my OG boostics. It’s probably my favorite rubber? Been using it for a few years now and I find it a little stickier than edge in cold temps, but holds an edge equally well (better maybe?)  

the new boostics are better than the bluestics, and closer in last, but I wouldnt say they’re 100% equal to the OG’s.
the toe box feels slightly taller for me, and overall the shoe is just a tad softer than the old ones. I was told it’s because they can’t source the old leather anymore. And the new stuff doesn’t hold the same stiffness in the shoe. 

Slim Pickenswrote:

Chris at Greater Tahoe Gripworks is re-branding his business as FA Resoles. They are @FA_Resoles on insta and faresoles.com is their new web address (though their old url still works).

Just yesterday, I received back two pairs that I sent to them in early December—a pair of solution comps and a pair of chimeras. These were, I think, the fifth and sixth pairs that Chris has done for me. He is a master craftsman. I cannot recommend highly enough. 

I miss dropping and picking my resoles up from him at Woodfords. He’s a cool guy and committed to the art of the resole.

Jeremy McCormickwrote:

About to put an order in, trying out 3 out of the 4 Davos options, they all sound amazing.  By chance have you tried the new new Boostics? I remember hearing they were the same or at least more like the parrot version. 

I wear the new Boostics as my go-to sport climbing shoe. Sized super tight, they are quite stiff and very precise. Day to day, I wear them a half size up from my tightest size, since they edge plenty well for most limestone sport climbing in a comfier size.

I actually prefer them over the OGs for sport climbing because they’re a bit more sensitive and a little softer. They fit a lot more like the old Boostics than the blues, and don’t have the awful, baggy heel of the blues.

The reasons for the lack of stiffness (from my understanding) are: different rand rubber and microsuede instead of suede upper. The old shoes got a lot of stiffness from thick leather upper construction combined with the rand that tensions under the forefoot. The new shoes have the same fit, construction, and tensioning system (the best for technical face climbing as far as I’m concerned), but softer materials with more “give”. I understand it’s impossible to source the old materials, so the probability of an exact replica of the old Boostic is nil.

I’m curious if Davos Ultra is stiffer than the same thickness Edge rubber at the same temperature. If anyone has experience, please report back. That would encourage me to take a gamble.

https://gripped.com/news/everything-you-need-to-know-about-gp1-the-worlds-stickiest-climbing-shoe-rubber/

I assume it wears out quickly and edges poorly.

Custom katakis- full rebuild 

Resole boostic left

Out of the box OG boostic right

aside from the subtle break in of the leather they feel/fit exactly the same.

He’s the man. 

I’d love to hear the backstory on the Kataki—looks like a lot of work went into those! Do you have any before pics?

I’lll put up pics of the Chimeras and Solution Comps I just got back from Chris—I tried to capture the shaping he does under the forefoot. It’s so good.

Slim Pickenswrote:

I’d love to hear the backstory on the Kataki—looks like a lot of work went into those! Do you have any before pics?

I don't think I have any.  V1 was just the shoe out of the box with a theory toe patch on them.  

I don't like TC's, and katanas don't fit me well.  So I had him put the toe patch on top to make jamming more comfortable and save the leather.  They're my go to for hard cracks, but if I don't lace em they're good for long multis unless there's a hard edging pitch.  I probably got 4 resoles out of them before they needed this full rebuild.  Psyched I have more time to find something else that will fill the gap.

almostradwrote:

I don't think I have any.  V1 was just the shoe out of the box with a theory toe patch on them.  

I don't like TC's, and katanas don't fit me well.  So I had him put the toe patch on top to make jamming more comfortable and save the leather.  They're my go to for hard cracks, but if I don't lace em they're good for long multis unless there's a hard edging pitch.  I probably got 4 resoles out of them before they needed this full rebuild.  Psyched I have more time to find something else that will fill the gap.

How much it cost you?