The Quiet Campaign to Ban Bouldering in Wisconsin SNAs

Well, this is disappointing.  For quite a few years I felt the WCA was making progress toward working with the WDNR.  Extremely slow, but progress.

This morning I stumbled across a document that makes me realize that all changed direction a year or so ago.

In Februrary 2025 the WDNR adopted an "Other Change" to it's Central Sand Plains Master Plan.  This document makes a policy change, so that bouldering is now no longer simply allowed everywhere open to the public [on Central Sand Plains properties].  The difference in wording means the WDNR can close access to bouldering even where all other activities are allowed.  They are teeing up bouldering.  This policy change flew under the radar because they labeled it a "typographical correction" which didn't require public comment.  (It also conflates bouldering and scrambling, which the original document was careful to separate, elsewhere.)

In March 2025 the WDNR adopted a new "Rock Climbing Common Element", a document intended to make it easier to write property plans.  This document does away with the distinction between roped climbing (always confusingly called "rock climbing") and bouldering.  This distinction has been a fundamental of WDNR climbing policy since 2013 (or really, since 2000, clarified in 2013).  This tees up bouldering to be treated the same way roped climbing has been treated.

In November 2025 the WDNR began the process of moving the Climbing Common Element (re)definitions of climbing into Administrative Code.  This sets them up to automatically prohibit bouldering in SNAs.

This careful sequence of moves coincides with the WDNR's failure to respond to the WCA request for a review of roped climbing in the Rib Mountain SNA, failure to engage with climbers to discuss either of the Master Plans currently underway, and failure to execute any sort of Memorandum of Understanding with the WCA.

The WCA is essentially being ghosted on everything that matters to Wisconsin climbers.

They are coming for bouldering in Wisconsin's SNAs.  

There has never been a more important time to support the Wisconsin Climbers Association.  See wiclimbers.com/

Do we have any idea who is leading this campaign against bouldering in Wisconsin? This seems a very intentional and directed attack to gut our access. When these sorts of changes are so specific it feels like it would help to know who is coming for us.

Ben, I have my suspicions but really can't say.  Several different people have their names associated with these documents, but those are just the people who were tasked with writing things up.  One thing we learned in 2000 (when all the current code was foisted on us) is that people we have worked with and trust can be coerced by their superiors, including being told not to tell us what is going on.

When we bring climbing issues or proposals to the central WDNR, a group of staff get together to discuss and make decisions.  No one in the WDNR has any expertise in climbing policy or climbing management - obviously.  This involves Parks, Natural Heritage Conservation (the SNA program), and the Property Planning section.

I'm not one for the Deep State conspiracy theories, but I can certainly see how people come to distrust their own government.  (And I've experienced similar behind-the-scenes maneuvering in the private sector as well.)

It's also worth pointing out that the campaign to remove climbers from SNAs is almost 30 years old.  All the WDNR actors have changed.  One or two actors can make things worse, but it's not completely down to those individuals.

Personally, I'm inclined to focus on the issues, and less on the personalities.  I suppose it's really a combination of both, but that's always been my personal bent.

I just called the Baraboo area State Rep (Karen DeSanto). Spoke with her office and gave an overview of what is happening along with how it impacts us.

In my opinion contacting the state legislature along with business in the areas is a good next step for us to take.
If we can figure out what areas are in high risk, and give good reason as to why they should care... it can put the pressure on the DNR from another source as well. 

Has anyone considered writing an op-ed for newspapers in Milwaukee, Madison, La Crosse, etc laying out the above points and highlighting the impact on outdoor recreation in the state? Another point that might be worth making is that reducing the number of areas open to climbing will concentrate impacts on already-high-traffic areas like Devil's Lake and Governor Dodge.

I would be curious to know if there are “bad actors” in this situation.  It would be informative to know who is directly trying to take access away.  If we don’t know that then how can we change their minds?  Hopefully the comments and emails make a difference but I am a bit skeptical.

Is anyone planning on giving a statement in the meeting tomorrow? I'm preparing mine and I'm trying to decide what to cover. If others will be covering the main points, I was going to focus specifically on how I take my young kids climbing, and on the family-friendly aspect of it.

Yes, sounds like several people are lined up for tomorrow. I think your point of view is as important as any Jason. I believe statements are limited to three minutes.

Wisconsin now has high school climbing teams. We’re no longer some fringe sport that the public is unaware of. Climbing has gone mainstream and it’s time for the DNR to get on the right side of history. Barring Wisconsinites, or anyone from respectfully recreating on public lands is unacceptable.