Jtree Testpieces at the Grade

No Self Confidence 5.10c, and  No Self Respect 5.10c/d are about as "test pIece" as it gets, I say humbly. A bonus is lots of other cool stuff to climb after a very nice, long, but gentle approach.

Chris Outingswrote:

You've done a butt load of climbs at X grade and said hey you know what - if you can lead this bolted route, this crack, and this OW - you can lead "anything" in the park at that particular grade. 

Ah okay. So lets say you can lead:
Dazed and Confused (5.9R)
Touch and Go (5.9)
Dolphin (5.7)

Then you can probably lead all the 5.6s in the Park. Just be careful on Right On - people have issues with that one (originally 5.5).  

This gives me an idea for a potentially entertaining thread. Basically name the Jtree route and the critical piece you'd send somebody up without to make sure they have a bad time. For ex.: Bird of Fire and tell them not to carry a 0.4 or 0.5. Or Dolphin and take nothing bigger than a 3. 

Cosmic Hotdogwrote:

...For ex.: Bird of Fire and tell them not to carry a 0.4 or 0.5. Or Dolphin and take nothing bigger than a 3. 

This might be considered a felony abuse charge

@ jt

ive led Mike's Books P2...i tell everyone to lead that pitch lol

yes - that is a perfect example

The Best 5.8 sport climbs in Joshua Tree National Park

This is the best of the best 5.8 sport climbs.  After doing all the 5.7 and under sport climbs, it's time to "up your game".  Get busy and start chipping away at this list.  These climbs are awesome and must-do routes for the route tickers.  You asked for it and here they are.  

1.  Incandescent    (Central)

Climbs up "perfect" white rock on small crimps.  A slippery modern favorite that has seen many ascents for a "newish" route.  

2. Cryptic  (5.8)  (Central)

A long time classic favorite with airy steep climbing to a fantastic spire summit.  Not for the timid leader.  

3.  Dik Dik  (Queen/Geotour)

Steep climbing on positive holds in a secluded spot.  A sleeper and a good climb.

4.  Pinky and the Brain  (Pinto)

Some people love this climb while others are "not impressed".  I love this climb.  It does have some loose flakes and some say it's sandbagged at 5.8  (I disagree).  Hop on it and see for yourself.  Well protected and steep on positive holds.

5.  Beak of the Week  (Pinto)

Well protected and novel climbing up a very thin and sharp arete.  Longish approach to an isloated area.  Airy, worthy and exciting.  

6.  Waterbabies  (Pinto)

I like this climb.  Steep and intimidating, but all "there".  Be careful at the start.  The bolts and fixed pins are sometimes "hidden" which gives the on-sight sort of a creepy yet exciting and satisfying feel.  Longish appoach to an isloated place.

7.  Binder   (Wonderland)

Maybe the easiest of the fantastic Siberia/Mongolia sport routes.  Popular, engaging and fun.  Long approach.

8. The Pothead   (Wonderland)

Long and well-protected pitch.  After the crux entry moves, it's just clip and go for a full pitch of slab climbing.  Not well known but should become popular in time.

9.   Pretty Woman   (Indian Cove)

Fun, cool , and interesting climbing with a very short approach.  "Heads up" moves for the second clip.  Already had lots of ascents for a newish route.

10.  Dig for Fire   (Indian Cove)

Long and steep approach.  Very cool climbing on tiny square "knobs".  Motivated climbers only.

11.  Cigarettes Are Good For You  (Indian Cove)

Excellent, steep and well-protected climbing with a short approach.   A "locals" favorite.

12.  Monkey Burger   (Indian Cove)

Another cool climb with a long approach to an isolated area.  The climbs are worth the long steep approach.  

Best 5.7 (and under ) sport climbs in Joshua Tree National Park

Here is the best of the best.  If this is your grade, then this is your hit list.  Get busy, be careful and savy and tick off the climbs on this list.   You are not here to check them out;  you are here to check them off.  Make this list your goal for the season.  These climbs will satisfy.  Half of these "classics" have never been published before in any guidebook.

1.  Swing Low  (5.7)  (Central)

This is a low stress cool slabby climb with lots of bolts and a very short approach.  A very popular and fun outting.  If you are a timid leader, this one may be right for you.

2.  SW Corner of Headstone Rock  (5.7)  (Central)

An fantastic climb up an impressive pinnacle.  Airy, scary, and not a lead for the faint of heart.  For the solid leader with a cool head.

3.  Live at Leeds   (5.7)  (Pinto)

A fun non-threatening slab climb on positive holds and well bolted.  Not well known (yet) and close to the road.  Should be a favorite in no time.

4.  The Groin  (5.7)  (Pinto)

Short, steep, airy and well protected, as well as close to the road.  Another sleeper but a worthy climb.  Ascends to the summit of a cool pinnacle too.   Should be popular with the moderate sport crowd.  Five or six other sport climbs nearby  makes for a fun day at the crags.

5.  Love Bubbles  (5.7)  (Pinto)

Know as "The poor man's Loose Lady".  Isolated area down nearby Cottonwood Campground.  Beautiful canyon with a steep approach.  Visible from the road.  A couple other worthy (and harder ) climbs nearby.  Wonderful flowers in the springtime.

6.  Military Haircut  (5.7)  (Pinto)  

Close to the road with steep, airy, well-protected climbing to a cool summit.  What's not to like  (except the somewhat chossy rock).  Give it a shot.

7.  Asian Fever  (5.7)   (Wonderland)

One of Joshua Tree's longest 5.7 sport pitches  (120').  Starts out slabby and finishes steep.  Well protected and engaging, but not too scary.  Well worth the 30-40 minute approach.

8.  Irish Toothache  (5.7)  (Wonderland)

Easy for the grade and well protected.  Excellent rock but unfortunately sort of short in length.

9.  Pass the Cheetos  (5.6)  (Wonderland)

Slabby climbing and liebacking up a wafer thin flake/crack.  Well bolted, novel and fun.  Isolated and longisth (1 hour) approach.  A fun and worthy climb with other cool climbs nearby.

10.  Mr. Simpkinton  (5.7)  (Wonderland)

One of Joshua Tree National Park's coolest "adventure" climbs.  Long approach with a 5th class chimney climb just to get to the start of the route!   "Expedition" style tactics and an epic experience.  Plan for a whole day outting.  Well protected traversing on an exposed dike way up high on a rock wall.  A long pitch with many bolts so bring a bunch of quickdraws.  May be a bit sandbagged at 5.7, but maybe not.  Go experiece for yourself and find out first hand.  

11.  Pebble Beach  (5.7)  (Indian Cove)

Steep cool "pebble" climbing on unique square "knobs".  Hidden area yet not too far from civilization.  Reasonable climbing with good pro.  A cool climb.

12.  Willit Slab  (5.6)  (Indian Cove)  

A standard campground favorite for years now.  Slabby, fun and worthy.

13.  Nip Lock   (5.7)  (Indian Cove)  

After the steep and irritating approach, you will be rewarded with a steep, fun, well-protected climb on positive holds.   Another unknown climb, but should gain popularity as word gets out.

This thread isn’t to ask for a list of the best climbs at a given grade. Guidebook and MP are plenty good enough for that.

From a previous post I made:

You got a friend coming in from out of town and they only got time for ~4 total climbs and at one grade at each category because this friend says theyve completely mastered this grade and theres nothing new that they need to learn/experience at this grade. Maybe theyre being a bit cocky. You want to sandbag them (errr show them a good time wink wink nudge nudge). What are the climbs at each grade at each category you have them lead to where maybe after each they admit it's a great climb, but that also you're also bastard and now they understand why you were grinning the whole time you were belaying.

Categories - finger, hand, OW, bolted, other?